Honda Twins banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

CB350K4 project started

Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 101 Posts
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Thanks guys! I used VHT High Temp paint for the engine. I used that brand of paint for others builds I did, and it's a good quality paint. This time to get that matt silver finish, I use the VHT FlameProof coating. I know I don't need a paint that can sustain so much heat, 2000F, but I want that nice matt silver finish.
 
#25 ·
Stou, I see that you are a professional painter. Did you spray the VHT on your engine with a gun, or from a rattle can? It looks very good. I like the color, and it goes well with some polished alloy parts as highlights. Will that paint withstand a bit of gasoline without departing?

Ray
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Fxray, I used the rattle can for that job. New high end rattles cans have a very good spray. It's not like the good old $5 rattle can. They have a very nice spray. If you follow the instruction, you have very good result. Right now I can't tell about the long term quality of that specific paint. It's the first time I used this line of VHT paint, the FlameProof coating. But if you look at the caracteristics of that paint, it is looking very good! (http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/)

Here's some détails:
VHT FlameProof™ Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, silicone ceramic base widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof™ Coating will withstand temperatures up to 2000°F (1093°C) and is ideal for use on headers, exhaust systems, or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed.
Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)
Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads
Click to expand...
They say that it can be used inside motor, piston domes and inside heads!

You can also bake the paint for a maximum quality
On the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes

Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Click to expand...
I will do it in the oven... when my wife will be out! :D
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the information, Stou. I believe that is what I will use also. I have the same engine, same model year, that I just pulled yesterday and mounted on an engine stand. My Tsubaki chain and KA tensioner, gasket set, seal set, cam bolts, chain guide, etc. all just came in the mail today. I will be following along behind you. (I saw that your cam chain was replaced by the previous owner). My bike was running perfectly, but I could hear the cam chain getting ready to go. Like you, I found a lot of powdered metal in the filter, which had not been present in previous oil changes. I probably won't crack the engine open till tomorrow, but am curious as to what I will find.

Ray
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#28 ·
I used the VHT flameproof on the exhaust headers of my 500T. It is holding up very well at this stage and i baked it on the motor with a couple of heating and cooling cycles. I cant wait to complete the engine teardown on my 350 and start with the cleanup


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Scud, I really like your Gren Assault 350, nice job!

Fxray, I didn't saw your project in the project log. Do you plan to start a thread on that project?

Drifter, I saw your current project. I subscribe to follow that, you have many work hours ahead of you to get that bike up and running!

I received my Vesrah gasket kit. That's a nice and complete kit. I decided to install new rings. So I wait for the rings before I can rebuild the engine.

 
#30 ·
Stou said:
Fxray, I didn't saw your project in the project log. Do you plan to start a thread on that project?
Click to expand...
No, I'm just inside the engine to replace the cam chain and tensioner, measure everything for wear, have a look around, and clean/paint. That's all pretty well documented, so I won't be starting a thread on it. When it's back together, I'll put up a note that either describes how great it went or one that tells a tale of sorrow.

Best wishes with your project.

Ray
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#32 ·
Stou, are you aware that there are two different bolts that hold the cam sprocket to the cam shaft? One is all threads and the other has a shoulder on it. They go in specific holes on the cam shaft. It is recomended that you replace those bolts after each teardown also. Just thought I'd mention it after seeing your engine gasket set.................. ;) :D
 
#34 ·
You got it!!!! That is a very common mistake, getting the wrong bolts in the wrong holes. It ends badly. They should also be torqued and loctited. I believe the torque is 14 ft. pounds. I have NOS bolts I will sell for $15 a set if your interested.
 
#35 ·
You can also verify by looking at the holes in the sprocket itself. One hole has threads out to the surface. The locating (shouldered) bolt goes into the other hole, where the threads stop below the surface of the sprocket.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Thanks guys! I always torque every bolts to the specs. I also tough about using Loctite on those bolts. You don't want to loose one of those in the engine! Thanks for the offer Glennwood55cameo, but I think I'll reuse the same bolts. I didn't saw notes in the shop manual about replacing those bolts when they are removed. Also those engine are not high performance engine, so I think there's not a big risk to reuse them. Torqued to the spec and with Loctite, that will be fine.

Nice remark Fxray!
 
#37 ·
I wouldn't take a chance reusing the bolts. Replacing them is cheap insurance. Here is a horror story of a newly rebuilt engine with reused bolts(that were loctited), shitting the bed........... http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/vie...4&t=24314&p=188686&hilit=cam+bolts&sid=da54975fb7a6e8e202013707e629321c#p188686 Several other broken cam bolt stories for your reading. http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/vie...am+shaft+sprocket+bolt"]viewtopic.php?f=44&t=4851&hilit=cam+shaft+sprocket+bolt

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=22506&p=175598&hilit=Cb350+cam+bolt#p175598

[/url]
 
#38 ·
Glennwood55cameo said:
You got it!!!! That is a very common mistake, getting the wrong bolts in the wrong holes. It ends badly. They should also be torqued and loctited. I believe the torque is 14 ft. pounds. I have NOS bolts I will sell for $15 a set if your interested.
Click to expand...
I am in the market for a set of bolts. You will not believe it when I took my cam sprocket off both bolts were of the non shouldered variety :eek: .
 
#40 ·
Stou said:
Glennwood55cameo, you have serious arguments. I'm convinced now!

I'll take them! I'll send you a PM about that.

Drifter, they seem to be available at CMSNL.
Click to expand...
Yes I have seen that, but they charge a ridiculous amount of money for postage :(
 
21 - 40 of 101 Posts
About this Discussion
100 Replies
23 Participants
Last post:
Stou
Honda Twins
posts
577K
members
40K
Since
2008
A forum community dedicated to Honda Twin cylinder motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine builds, classifieds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Project Logs Engine Discussion New Member Introductions Engine Discussion Electrical Discussion