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Honda CB360 1973

33K views 93 replies 11 participants last post by  pikl  
The plate with the smaller "flapped" hole in it is the CHOKE plate..... These should be wide open once the engine is warmed up.....The throttle plates are closest to the engine, the choke plates closer to the air cleaner........

As to the year, Honda, like any other manufacturer starts production of the 1974 model in September 1973....Manufacture date is NOT the same as model year....
 
Please correct the torque stay bolts on your front wheel....
They need some type of lockwasher (I prefer the folded/hooked tab the 350 and 450's used)....
You won't like it AT ALL if one of them vibrates out......
 
I mean the ones on the "strap" that connects the fork slider and brakeplate..... (above the linkage in your pic)

The axle MUST be correctly torqued for the bearings to function correctly.....40 to 47 ft/lbs on the axle nut.....

The axle cap nuts (the ones you "red arrowed" ) get 13 to 18 ft/lbs and should have both a flat and a lockwasher....

These specs are in the FSM......
 

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My numbers were from a 350 manual...Oops! :oops:

Personally, I just tighten until the NEW lockwasher is fully compressed, Plus a good "snug"....But I'd bet it's within specs....LOL.....
 
Damn they are extremely expensive! I decided I will make my own manifolds. I have a lathe, and I can make a fitting for a rubber hose out of aluminium. The fitting will go on the cylinder head. And if I would ever need to replace it again, I can simply buy a new rubber hose and cut two rubbers out of it.

I made a picture of what I am intending to do.

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Remember, the inner diameter must be a smooth transition from the carb's spigot ID to the fabricated aluminum flanged mount's ID.....
Any sudden diametric change will cause unnecessary turbulance in the flow and result in loss of performance......
The mount also has to protect the carb from direct contact with engine heat, so you can't "touch" the two spigots together to achieve that......
You will need a hose with both correct "through" ID and "stepped" secondary ID where it fits/clamps over the spigots....A straight section of conventional hose is NOT ideal for this.....