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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!
My first post.

I have always wanted a classic twin, so recently, I got myself a Honda CB360. On the first look, it wasnt really nice. It was probably shipped to the Netherlands from USA, and then brought to my country, Slovenija (sorry for my bad English...).
Someone had it in a garage for about two years, and in that time, the garage was also flooded with water. I got the bike in an exchange.
Fortunately, it wasnt flooded completely, and the engine wasnt touched by the water. I brought it home. It started on the first kick. So I started cleaning it. All the dust that was on it, somehow protected it from rust, so the bike is in a really nice shape, except for the wheel, cause some of it was in water... I like the bike so mutch, that i polished the whole engine by hand :)
I looked around on the internet, and was suprised to see, that they started to make them in 1974, so this must be one of the first models, since its '73.
The problem for me is getting the parts, cause shipping from america is really expencive. But the bike is in a really good shape, so i think i could fix most of the things.

I have a question about the color. Is it Candy topaz orange? If it is, what is the color code of it?
I need to repain the tank. The color is awesome at the sides, but someone wrote a price with an alcohol marker on the tank (the bike was probably sold on a fair in Italy), and the color faded, but the price is visible, cause it didnt fade under the marker. It looks really ugly, and ruins the look of the whole bike.

I also need to get an original, nice seat cover..

I also have a question about the brakes. What is better, disc or drum brakes? I have drum brakes, and they look awesome, but im curious about the functionality... I doubt those early disc brakes are better than those double drum brakes, though.

Also, when i tried driving it, it was really nice, untill at 5000rpm, the engine began coughing. I cleaned the carbs, and a membrane had a hole. I fixed it, but I havent had time to test it yet. Could that be the problem? Or could it be something else? The compression is 9 in both cilinders. The sparks are beautiful...

I wanna drive the bike daily, so i need to be shure in it. Can you tell me the usual problems it has?
 

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Hello pikl,
Nice find you have there polished up quite nice given it's history. The twin leading shoe front brake will be fine for daily riding, Unless you are going to race it I would not change it. I am not sure about the seat cover, I have seen plenty of CB 350 and SL 350 covers on ebay so that might be a good place to start. With the paint I am unsure what the colour code is but I am sure some one on here can help, Alternatively you could try an auto paint store and get them to do a colour match for you, I do not know the circumstances in your country but here in Australia we can even get a matched paint put into an aerosol can for us. The diaphram (membrane) is probably the cause of your problem so you need to replace it, I do not know of any repairs that would be successful. I do not know of the availability of these parts from the factory but again you could try ebay, I find that most of the parts available for the older Hondas can be sourced primarily from the USA.
Have fun :D
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alanio, I glued the diaphram with some really strong glue. It works nicely, but i know I need to find a replacement. It runs ok now...
There are people who would mix the color, if i brought them them the tank, but i want to make the color original, and I found the code(its YR 1C).
The seats from cb350 are the same?

Znabb, zdravo! :D
Thanks for those sites!
 

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Sensei
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350 seats are NOT the same as 360 seats.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well i finnaly got the new diaphrames, points, sparks and condensers, but unfortunately, snow started falling, so i cant test it :(

I also found a sissy bar in my junk, and it fits prefectly. It seems like its from a larger Honda...
I found this fairing on ebay, and it seems really nice. I would like some wind protection, and this one, in my opinion, really fits the 360. Looks like a heavy motorcycle :D
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Cafe-Racer-Drag- ... 48478efee6
Does anybody have any experience with it? I would repaint it to the original color, of course...

I also found this new color for it. Is the candy topaz orange CB360 color? There were many orange Honda-s, so im not shure...
http://www.ebay.de/itm/RH-SPRITZLACK-Se ... 4d057bf284

I also had to take a picture of the front brake, cause it looks awesome :D I was polishing it a whole day, but its hard to see, cause of picture quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I finnaly found the time to install the diaphrames, points and condensers.
I took it on a test run, and it worked great untill it hit 6000-7000rpm. At 6000, it stopped for a second, and then started gaining rpm, but not as smooth as before.
When I was back at home, I unplugged the left cilinder spark, and the engine was still working exactly the same, but if i unplugged the right cilinder, it stopped working. I got scared, that i was driving with only one cilinder, but then i tried unplugging it at higher rpm, and it still worked. I guessed the carburators weren't set correctly, so I tried setting them. The left cilinder had 6 bars of pressure, and the right one had only 1 bar. I set the both to about 1,5 bars. Tried it again, but it was even whorse. So i wanted to set the air on the carbs aswell, but there were no instructions in the manual. So I did it as I felt is right... It was still the same :(
Does anyone know how big the pressure in the carbs should be?
I noticed there is a cover onthe carburators, on the throttle valve (the flap you open and close with the throttle). It seems to be missing on the right side. Does that make any diffrence in the pressure?

Im still thinking about adding a Z900 tipe fairing :D

I still cant get why it says honda started making 360 motorcycles in 1974... It says its made in 1973 on mine. :?:
 

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Sensei
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The plate with the smaller "flapped" hole in it is the CHOKE plate..... These should be wide open once the engine is warmed up.....The throttle plates are closest to the engine, the choke plates closer to the air cleaner........

As to the year, Honda, like any other manufacturer starts production of the 1974 model in September 1973....Manufacture date is NOT the same as model year....
 

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That cover (the one that is missing) is a seal for the throttle shaft. It can cause a lean condition if missing.

Crazy PJ made some aluminum ones for me, he may be able to do that for you....

Until I replaced mine, I put a light cout of oil on the shaft, (no oil on the sides of the carb body) and filled it with RTV. The RTV won't stick tot he shaft as it has oil, but stuck to the carb and sealed it. The RTV would last a while, then eventually fall out. But it will seal it for a while.

A replacement cover is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I made a nice aluminium cover with a router, and also added some silicon sealant (the one for cilinder heads) under it. Though the cover was a tight fit, i added the silicon, so its fawless... It should be sealed now. You could feel the pressure from the engine without it, so i hope this was the problem... Now i need to set the carbs again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I still couldnt set the carbs, cause I dont have the equipment for it...
I ordered that bullet fairing, and I decided im gonna also paint it in the orange color, so im waiting for it...
I saw this really nice and cheap LED headlight in this topic:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14974
I am thinking about buying it myself. If I understood it right, it only uses 9W with all lights on. That will probably work great on the old charging system. Im also thinking about changing the tail light to led. LED turn signals would in my opinion have no sense, since they are not on all the time... I'll maybe change the lights on the "dashboard" (speedo and tachometer and the middle lights...). The LED lights also have an uncomparable lifetime. And even if some headlight led lights would stop working, some would still be on... I saw the headlight isnt E-marked, but since its an oldtimer, I think I can get it homologated.
I will probably also switch the rectifier regulator with a kohler.

The regulator/rectifier - http://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Regulat ... =8-1-fkmr0

the headight - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Mot ... uhb=1#shId

the tail light - http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... b/170/767/

I also opened the side cover of the engine. Someone already cleanedthe filter for "the big parts" once, but the other filter (centrifugal one) didnt seem that it was ever cleaned. That didnt worry metoo mutch, but i got scared when i found a small piece of plastic in the engine. I doubt there is any other part of the engine, that is plastic, besides the cam chain tensioner and things related to it. There seems as there was no recall made on the engine. The numbers on the engineand the frame are almost identical, except the last couple of numbers, so i think the engine is original. There are no punch marks on it. I will probably have to open the cilinder head and check everything anyway (adjust the valves...). But if the cam chain tensioner is ok (though it probably isnt...), should i make the recall on it? I was searching on ebay, but i cant find the parts for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have read somewhere, that the charging system is all of 130 Watts, when above 3000RPM. Users:
-the ignition system - 40 to 50 watts
-headlight (low beam) - 35 watts
-taillight - 15 watts
-battery needs atleast 10 watts
-20 more watts when you use the brake light
Total consumption is 130 watts.

But if I used the 9 watt headlight and a 1,5 watt taillight, the consumption would be 59,5 watts, so there would be about 55 watts left. could that hurt the battery or anything similar?
 

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Sensei
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Please correct the torque stay bolts on your front wheel....
They need some type of lockwasher (I prefer the folded/hooked tab the 350 and 450's used)....
You won't like it AT ALL if one of them vibrates out......
 

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Discussion Starter #19
66Sprint said:
Please correct the torque stay bolts on your front wheel....
They need some type of lockwasher (I prefer the folded/hooked tab the 350 and 450's used)....
You won't like it AT ALL if one of them vibrates out......
I am not 100% shure which bolts do you mean...


This ones?

and lock washer... do you mean using this:

or this



I was disassembling the front wheel and was wondering how it fits together... I will have to disassemble it again anyway, cause i am planning to "refill" the brake shoes...

As i had the front wheel of the forks, i also noticed the main axle wasn't thightened at all. I didnt find any specific torque for it in the manual, and i guessed it dosent need to be really tight, since those four bolts hold it like that...
 

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I mean the ones on the "strap" that connects the fork slider and brakeplate..... (above the linkage in your pic)

The axle MUST be correctly torqued for the bearings to function correctly.....40 to 47 ft/lbs on the axle nut.....

The axle cap nuts (the ones you "red arrowed" ) get 13 to 18 ft/lbs and should have both a flat and a lockwasher....

These specs are in the FSM......
 

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