[Simo]

Your right Steve, I was looking for dwell to compare the coil charging time between what I have and stock

At 10500 rpm the points close 175 a sec that's once every 5.7 ms if my dwell angle is 55 deg of 180deg (half the 110deg of 360deg total cam rotation) that's 30.55% , 30.55% of 5.7ms is 1.74ms of dwell at redline

If stock dwell was say 60deg that would end up with a charge time of 1.9ms at the same 10500 rpm
But would also have a 1.73ms charge time at 11500rpm so my setup should work though be slightly sub optimal

 

[dtsmjr8dan]

Yes, Steve, it is the main consideration. Dwell angle is the time in degrees that the primary circuit is energized. And dwell angle was his concern, so I just thought I'd throw out that bit of info for him.
Simo will have to work out the configuration for the 180* twin. I don't profess to be an expert in the inner workings of the unit Simo is working on. Again, I applaud Simo for his entire build.

 

[Simo]

Is this any help, Simo??
Dwell angle = 240 / #-of-cylinders. So, 30 for 8 cyl, 40 for 6, 60 for 4, 120 for 2, and 240 for a single cylinder.
Since you are only reading the dwell angle of one set of points, that would be a single cylinder.

Sorry should have said thanks for this....,the 240 in your numbers implys a 2/3 charge 1/3 discharge which would make my set up the wrong way round since @110 deg it's more or less 1/3 charge 2/3 discharge

 

[Simo]

I worked out the dwell by using the points,
I set the timing, points gap etc as well as I possibly could
then used the timing light to mark on the crank rotor where the light came on then measured the angle between my new mark and the F mark 120 deg of dwell at the rotor which would = 60 at the cam, so my 55 deg set up should work....

 

[Simo]

Been a while
I rolled my ankle just after Xmas then while still wearing a moon boot went to the beach to go swimming and stood on a broken bottle ...
So not much work on the bike or anything else and now back at work..
Got some rear shock off a cbx250 325mm so looks like I'm raising the ride height by 1/2inch on the shocks and another 1/2 from the tires
I'm looking at rearset
Fzr 250
Or
Gaze 1000
Both $80 both designed for hydraulic rear so a bit of work required
Anyone got advice? Or opinions

 

[Drifter]

I will go with the GSXR set due to the better condition. Will you be able to change the rear brake to a cable operated brake? Then you do not need to modify the rearsets.

Good to see that you are back at it.

 

[xj750guy]

Personally, I would choose the gsxr setup, based on condition.......

On my project, I am really planning to attempt a "from scratch" build from raw aluminum. If you try a search including "herm" and "rearsets", it should come up.........The way the "how to" looks on those, it appears to be quite simple to build.

I can't guarantee I will succeed, but the options to make a "better suited" setup improve dramatically when you build it to fit the bike.........plus no drama converting a rearset for the brake to pull the lever.

Regards,
Darryl

 

[Simo]

Thanks for the Rearset advice
Was just about to buy the gsxr ones and this 1960's Puch headlight shell popped up and suckered me in
I've always loved the honda combined speedo/tach units built into the headlight
But they just never show up in NZ
So this will have to do
Any how broke again so rearset will have to wait till next month

 

[66Sprint]

Simon,
That looks very similar to the CEV ones from the Harley (Aermacchi) Sprints.......
I wish you had let me know, I could have fixed you up with a CB 160 combined unit (CL 175 sloper had the same assembly)....Still can for that matter.....PM me....

 

[Simo]

Little update
Got the swing arm bushes replaced so now she rolls and I can really sort out the offset for my front sprocket

 

[Simo]

Ok using Steve's exemplar of every change requires at least one more
Cbx250 rear shocks = eye to eye not stock eye to clevis
So how to deal with this ?
Is it ok to just bolt through? Or option two is to flip the swing arm 180 deg and fix from the underside

The other is si is clearance. The gb250 rear gives little room on the chain side for a bolt through option

 

[66Sprint]

Mount the shocks with the reservoirs at the top.....less unsprung weight that way as well.....
Outboard is OK, but ideally, you should move the top mounts out the same amount and weld a plate "outer" to complete the clevis from the swingarm @ the bottom......(so the shock bolt is supported on both sides of the shock)
I believe I'd narrow the lower bush and mount, add the outer plate and then you'd only have a small distance to space the top out.....

 

[Simo]

Thanks Steven
My idea for spinning the swing arm 180 was to reduce the offset between the frame and arm ... I could turn a solid swing arm bush and weld it in place in the arm (if I get time at work) if that would be a better option
The cbx shocks were mounted (stock) with the resivour at the bottom so I was concerned that they should be set that way ( as opposed to the more modern/common resivour at the top)

 

[Drifter]

Ok using Steve's exemplar of every change requires at least one more

This is so true even a simple change normally involves additional changes. So I presume in that sense stock will be easier, but finding nos parts will difficult and costly.

 

[66Sprint]

Simon,
Not sure you CAN flip the swingarm 180..... most Honda arms have more offset to the left side for chain clearance, (They are NOT symmetrical )....
BTW, your package is enroute.....

 

[Simo]

Thanks you all again
Steve, Cliff, Ian, Chris, Perry, Ronny, Jim, and, Jake for your generosity in supporting the care package

For anyone who is wondering...
Steve with the help of the above members got together a package of parts that are/were ( for me at least) unobtainable....

Here's the link.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28779

 

[Simo]

Simon,
Not sure you CAN flip the swingarm 180..... most Honda arms have more offset to the left side for chain clearance, (They are NOT symmetrical )....
BTW, your package is enroute.....

Thanks Steve
I'm going to have to re recheck
I was centering the gb rear wheel to the center of the swing arm ( I was assuming that the arm was centered to the frame :roll: ) but if the arm is asymmetrical my wheel is off center and I'll have to re make the spacers

 

[Simo]

Anyone know how to remove the frame bushings
Part 32

 

[CB200T75]

I don't know what your frame bushings are made of. The ones I took out of my 200 were some sort of composite material. I used a punch and a hammer to knock them out. It ruined them (chipping them) so I replaced them with ones from CMSNL (pricey). I saw some for sale on ebay that were brass, and people would drill out the center bolt and install a zerk fitting to grease them.

 

[Simo]

Care package