CB450 / CL450 valve train assembly pictorial
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72 Posts
This all very helpful as I restore my Brit 1969 K1/2 450 engine which is in pieces, with the casings heading of to be 'blasted' into new condition. Fortunately, all of the upper running gear is in excellent condition, but the exhaust valves a little worn, possibly now sourced, New Timing chain and top roller now sourced.
Your photos are of excellent quality and we will refer to them, along with the Honda workshop manual as we put her back together over the next 2 /3 weeks Many thanks for your time and effort and good luck with your project.
Nige.UK.
Your photos are of excellent quality and we will refer to them, along with the Honda workshop manual as we put her back together over the next 2 /3 weeks Many thanks for your time and effort and good luck with your project.
Nige.UK.
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1,502 Posts
Hi,
Instead of shimming your cam with these very thin shims (which are vulnerable and sometimes end up as grinded up sheet metal), I use the thickness of the gaskets self to "shim" the cams. I have different sizes (thickness) of sheet gasket material, this way I can manipulate the clearance.
When you have a few of the standard pré-cut Honda or aftermarket gaskets you can also measure the thikness, they differ, a little puzzling and voilà, no shims needed, saves a few bucks too.
Jensen
btw, In general, give the gaskets time to get set to the torque of the bolts, no matter what method you use. Measure directly after tightening the bolts, and after one or two days again. If the gap is exactly according spec directly after tightening the next day the gap can be too small ! (I have seen that a few times, especially with cheap aftermarket pré-cut gaskets).
Instead of shimming your cam with these very thin shims (which are vulnerable and sometimes end up as grinded up sheet metal), I use the thickness of the gaskets self to "shim" the cams. I have different sizes (thickness) of sheet gasket material, this way I can manipulate the clearance.
When you have a few of the standard pré-cut Honda or aftermarket gaskets you can also measure the thikness, they differ, a little puzzling and voilà, no shims needed, saves a few bucks too.
Jensen
btw, In general, give the gaskets time to get set to the torque of the bolts, no matter what method you use. Measure directly after tightening the bolts, and after one or two days again. If the gap is exactly according spec directly after tightening the next day the gap can be too small ! (I have seen that a few times, especially with cheap aftermarket pré-cut gaskets).
Joined
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1,502 Posts
Hi,
Do you have the shims inside ? If you have no shims, and your intake cam is jamming, you need a thicker gasket (one side or both sides).
Yes, I torque them down, M6 standard torque. Using a torque wrench with allen bolts is simple, and much easier than the Philips screws.
Jensen
Do you have the shims inside ? If you have no shims, and your intake cam is jamming, you need a thicker gasket (one side or both sides).
Yes, I torque them down, M6 standard torque. Using a torque wrench with allen bolts is simple, and much easier than the Philips screws.
Jensen
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212 Posts
I have no shims on the intake, but one on the exhaust cam...
Will try with the thicker gaskets - btw do you know what standard thickness for the gaskets are? ( really crazy question, I know
)
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1,502 Posts
Hi,
No not a strange or crazy question. The OEM gaskets are around 0,5 mm, from 0,35 to 0,65. Most after markets gaskets are slightly thinner, around 0,25 to 0,50 mm.
The problem with most after market gaskets is that the thickness isn't stable and get's thinner after a few heat cycles. I always measure the cam side play twice once after torquing down the screws, and once after a few heat cycles.
Jensen
No not a strange or crazy question. The OEM gaskets are around 0,5 mm, from 0,35 to 0,65. Most after markets gaskets are slightly thinner, around 0,25 to 0,50 mm.
The problem with most after market gaskets is that the thickness isn't stable and get's thinner after a few heat cycles. I always measure the cam side play twice once after torquing down the screws, and once after a few heat cycles.
Jensen
Joined
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785 Posts
I had mine open the other day to check the valve clearance and thought I better measure the clearance as I have used aftermarket gaskets. I was very glad when i found that the clearance on both cams was within spec. Fairly close to the lower end of the specs and without any shims. At least I know that the gaskets have now settled (1000 km) - so I dodged the bullet this time.
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8,981 Posts
Has anyone advice on the best after market gasket manufacturers? I have found some pretty poor quality gasket sets in the past although I cannot remember the manufacturer. I should have kept the manufacturers name and made sure I did not try to buy them a second time.
I asked the same question in another thread and never got a reply. I plan to take mine back out and use loctite..i figure it won't hurt and if nothing else it will give me peace of mind.
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526 Posts
I'd say that's the idea...mind you, when i did mine there was no mark on the Exhaust cam and it turned out it wasn't right!
However you can still move the chain around them, but you need to pop off the cam end housings and slip the rockers to one side of the valve. This gives enough clearance to manipulate the chain around to cam sprocket.
However you can still move the chain around them, but you need to pop off the cam end housings and slip the rockers to one side of the valve. This gives enough clearance to manipulate the chain around to cam sprocket.
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