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New clean '71 CB350, what should I do to make it a good rider?

327 views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Hennie  
#1 · (Edited)
Looking for opinions on what I should do to make my new '71 CB350 with low miles (2200) a good weekly rider without expecting any serious issues. Not looking to make it a show bike, just a once or twice a week to the gym kind of bike, but don't want to ignore anything that could screw it up if it goes bad. I unfortunately don't have any history on it other than it is very clean with almost no rust and the parts are all original except the exhaust. Tires are from 2019 and it has a new petcock. Edit: Adding that it runs fine except for high idle likely due to carb vacuum leak or stuck throttle cable, drove it about 40 miles at all speeds and gears without issues other than that.

Here is what I already know I am doing:
Carb rebuild
fork rebuild
new rear shocks
Chain clean/lube
new fuel lines
new cables


Any suggestions? Or is everything else something that is not going to be a huge deal if it stops working. Expecting I may end up on the side of the road at some point, but just want to have it run pretty well and be somewhat reliable with no catastrophic failures.
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#2 ·
This is a great topic. From my experience:

Fuel system:
Keep the original carbs, clean them up with new seals, buy new slide diaphragms if you can. Also replace the rubber between the carbs and the engine and between the carbs and the air box.

Make sure your gas tank is rust and debris free, if not clean it out with distilled vinegar or other proven solution. You can also seal the tank if you would like. Always run an inline fuel filter and ethanol free gas if possible.

Ignition system: IMO, keep it as oem as possible. The points and condensers made 54 years ago still out perform any after market parts made today. If they need replacing try to find NOS parts. Take care to grease you points cam and check your points gap every oil change.

Misc:
If you want to eliminate battery maintenance look into getting a lithium ion battery, they are pricey but worth it imo. You may want to add adjusting the valve clearance and cam chain tension to your list, it's not a hard job but important!

If your really want to go the extra mile you can clean up and grease the swing arm pivot, that is very often overlooked.

Hope this helps, -Kyle
 
#5 ·
This is a great topic. From my experience:

Fuel system:
Keep the original carbs, clean them up with new seals, buy new slide diaphragms if you can. Also replace the rubber between the carbs and the engine and between the carbs and the air box.

Make sure your gas tank is rust and debris free, if not clean it out with distilled vinegar or other proven solution. You can also seal the tank if you would like. Always run an inline fuel filter and ethanol free gas if possible.

Ignition system: IMO, keep it as oem as possible. The points and condensers made 54 years ago still out perform any after market parts made today. If they need replacing try to find NOS parts. Take care to grease you points cam and check your points gap every oil change.

Misc:
If you want to eliminate battery maintenance look into getting a lithium ion battery, they are pricey but worth it imo. You may want to add adjusting the valve clearance and cam chain tension to your list, it's not a hard job but important!

If your really want to go the extra mile you can clean up and grease the swing arm pivot, that is very often overlooked.

Hope this helps, -Kyle

Thanks!
I already got everything you mentioned for the carbs. Gas tank is rust free, verified before I bought. Will add an inline filter when I replace the fuel lines.

Planning on adjusting the points, greasing the cam etc, and will check the valve clearance as well. Thanks!
 
#3 ·
Check the date codes on the tires. Replace if over 8 years old, even if they look fine; there may be hidden cracks that show up after the first few rides. You don't want to be leaned over in a hard corner when a chunk of rubber comes off!

Replace all fluids.

Check everything that is adjustable, and reset as needed - clutch and brake cables, and clutch lifter, etc. Also, if your rear brake has a wear indicator, make sure it is in range.

If you haven't, find a Honda service manual. I mostly use my Clymer's under the side stand.:rolleyes:
 
#4 ·
Did you see and hear the engine running before you purchased the bike and did the engine "go thru the gears, both up and down showing no hint to trying to "jump out of gear "

Very low mileage, examine drained oil FOr glitter, black bits and any lumps. Also examine the centrifugal oil filter.

You will find the printable cmsnl com exploded views usefull etc....

I hope you realise that stuck can stick, like valv s and clutches etc., Etc. ,Etc.....

A stuck valve can reduce a viable engine to scrap in one stock, actually two as it's a twin...

Any signs of sealer on engine gasket joints ?

Over to you for some feedback which will help others...picturers...

Don't rush and most of all, enjoy...
 
#7 ·
A Honda will never leave you stranded next to the road. In my opinion it is one of the most reliable bikes ever marketed. Each Honda is assembled and sold with the buyer in mind. It is made to last whether you punish or coddle it. Just make sure that you look after all the small things that might go wrong and keep the oil and fuel levels correct. Try and keep it as original as possible. An original bike that is well maintained increases in value through the years. I hope you have many years of happy motoring.