Hi Mick,

Which bit of the uuk are you in ?

You just got this bike and heard it running before you purchased it ?

How many miles has it done ?

Why did you take the clutch apart ?

You know if CMSNL.com for its exploded views ?

You have a manual ?

You got a new clutch cover gasket ?

All relevant information needed to "set the scene" .....

So, either and incorrect assembly, missing part or incorrect adjustment...

Over....

 

Thanks for your reply.
I’m in Surrey.
I got it about 6 weeks ago after it had been stored for 5 years and it had been started regularly.
Mileage unknown.
New clutch fitted 5 years ago but it was gunged up so I’ve cleaned and checked all the plates, pads etc.
I’ve got all the manuals and diagrams and all the bits seem to be there.
New gasket fitted, new oil, new everything to do with the clutch!
No matter how much adjustment it doesn’t bite until the lever is fully squeezed. And it doesn’t operate.
I must be doing something wrong or there’s a gearbox problem, maybe?
Regards
Mick

 

It's a runner so no stuck valves....

Take the whole clutch apart.

Reassemble according to the CMSNL.com exploded views.

Gearbox problem ?
When the clutch is apart, does the gearbox input shaft rotate freely in neutral, rotate the front sprocket when in gear ?

Does the input shaft move up/down, side to side at all.

How about in and out ?

Make sure all spacers, washers, bushes and plates go in the correct position.

When the clutch basket and plates are in place, and the springs compressed, the unit is said to be "engaged" ( clutch out, handlebar lever released ) and will transmit power from crank init gearbox.

When the handlebar lever is pulled to the handlebar, the clutch is said to be "disengaged" ( clutch pulled in, clutch plates now free of each other, clutch not able to transmit power from crank to gearbox, if in gear, rear wheel disconnected from crank, rear wheel able to turn gearbox but not crank ).

The clutch "release" mechanism controls clutch operation thru levers and the " cam and balls" mechanism, which is adjustable.

There should be some "play" in the release mechanism else clutch may/will slip. Too much play will result in difficult gear selection and clutch "creep/drag" , not being able to release the clutch enough.

So, strip and reassemble, refit case and adjust release mechanism.

The cam and ball plate "holding in place" can be awkward, dab of grease to hold in place whilst cover goes on.

Even leaning bike over to the left as far as possible can help.

Pictures.....

Hope this helps

 

Sounds like you just need to adjust the clutch plates and clutch cable. Youll find that where the cable attaches to the lever there are plenty of spare threads and a lock washer, adjust that to change where the lever first engages the cable. At the clutch there should be a bolt that can be turned that adjusts the range or movement and resting position of the plates. Also, ensure the ball bearings at this mechanism are sitting correctly in their races.

 

"it doesn’t bite until the lever is fully squeezed. " , do you mean the clutch does release completely when the lever is pulled ? The clutch needs to be properly adjusted. First, slacken the cable adjusters, then loosen the lock nut on that that little clutch release arm and turn the screw counter clockwise until it is good and snug. Now turn that screw clockwise, until it just becomes free, then a bit more for running clearance and tighten the lock nut. Finally, turn the cable adjusters to achieve the desired free-play at the lever.

 

Thanks, Mike
I have tried that but there is no "feel" or resistance when the lever is pulled in. It's either too easy to move or, if I adjust it right up, the lever has resistance at the final inch. Must be something strange going on in there! I've taken it apart and put back together a few times now. new plates, pads, lifter etc.
Thanks again for your time
Mick

 

Wrong length cable?