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Bike is making click noise whenever I try to start it?

13K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  holymolyitsclay  
#1 ·
Hey guys, first post here. I am VERY new to motorcycles. I just bought a 1970 CB350 knowing next to nothing about the bike, purely to be able to enjoy it and build it up myself. (learning experience...??? :roll: )

That being said, I have no idea how to fix or troubleshoot this issue...

I bought the bike from Michigan, and the previous owner said it was running. He said it started every time, no questions asked. He did say that it sputtered after 6,000 RPM and would need the carbs cleaned (he assumed).

I get it to my house, and the battery seems to be dying. Turn the key, and the lights are dim, horn works, turn signals barely work, and then I try to push the button to start it. It clicks endlessly but never actually fires up. I then try the kick start, and it isn't doing anything. So I get a friend over, who knows a little about motorcycles in general, and he tries to work it. He tells me that the kickstart needs attention, because it only catches sometimes. Kind of hard to explain, but it seems the teeth only want to catch 1 out of 5 times. Well after about 5 kicks, he gets it to start. The bike sounds incredible. I give it a little gas, sounds good. We are sitting there admiring the bike and it dies on us. So we go to start it again. This time, it will not start. We try the kick start probably 50 times. The engine is making noise when I use the kick start, but not starting.

I suggest we attempt a rolling start, and we find a bit of a hill and try it out. The bike is trying to "turn over" but isn't making a spark.

So we are hanging out for about an hour trying to troubleshoot, and then we go back to the bike, turn the key, and try our luck. This time, the lights come on, but the horn doesn't work, the turn signals barely work, and the button start isn't working. It turns makes several clicking noises but then nothing.

I think it may be a dead battery and in need of more gas, so I go get a trickle charger and new gas. I charge the battery all night, and put new gas in, and the headlights are much brighter, turns signals still having issues, but do light up better (i think this is a separate issue all together, they only lights up, don't flash. I tried kick starting it, but the engine makes a small noise and then nothing. Also, now the button starter makes a single clicking noise and it's done.

Can anyone please tell me what my next steps may be? I'm frustrated that we got it running for a little while, and now it won't run at all. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks :)
 
#2 ·
Okay, just went outside again to try starting it again, just for good measure. I tried the starter button, and the engine is turning over. I give it gas while it is turning over, and it revs. (man that thing sounds good, I feel bad for the neighbors though.)

The kick start still doesn't work. And the bike dies if I'm not giving it gas.

Any suggestions?
 
#3 ·
Hi, welcome to the forum.

It sounds like you have weak connection, or the battery is shot. Get your hands on a multimeter and see how much voltage it shows. You need at least 12.5v from the battery because the way these old Honda's are wired they won't even kick start if the battery is just strong enough to light up the lights. A dying battery can appear to take a charge, but still not produce enough juice.

Sometimes they will run, (poorly) and die at low rpm on a weak battery.

Some motorcycles are wired so they will still kick start on a weak battery, but Honda's aren't. "So why's it got a kick starter?" many people ask, in case the starter motor it's self fails.

If you don't have a multimeter, they aren't very expensive and a good investment because even a new battery could be faulty.
 
#4 ·
I would suspect you have a charging issue. More specifically, I suspect that you have a bad rectifier. Why? In the 70's, all they had was selenium rectifiers and they have a limited life.

But, let's start at the beginning.

Kick start. Your bike will only start with the transmission in neutral and the clutch lever not pulled. Pulling the clutch disengages the kick start. It's awesome when you kill your bike when the light turns green and you have to find neutral and get the kicker to work real quick!

On my '71 CB350, the kick starter can be finicky. I have to slowly push it down until it catches, then give it a solid kick. It's become second nature now, but took a little getting used to.

First thing you need to do is get a mulitmeter. If you have a harbor freight near by, you can pick one up for $5 that will be just fine for what you need. Check the battery with the bike off. Then, get it started. When it's running at around 4000-5000RPM, you should be getting close to 14 V at the battery.

Check that and get back to us.
 
#5 ·
Thanks SO MUCH for the quick responses guys. Here's what I did since I last posted. I charged the battery for about an hour more, threw it in, fiddled with a couple switches, tried turning the engine over after fiddling with each switch, and eventually it worked. Worked meaning it turns over, sparks, and starts the engine and revs! It is idling right around 1,100 RPM. (did I mention how good I thought it sounded? :p)

I need to go get a multimeter, because I'm not so sure about this battery. I will also replace the rectifier if i can find one.

One question I had that is remaining, is even with the clutch disengaged, and in neutral, the kick start still does not work. I'm sure it's just me and the fact that I have no idea how to "feel" when it's right, because my friend was able to do it.

Thanks again, guys.
 
#7 ·
Great! Glad to hear it's running.

But, get the multi meter before you start replacing things at random. Selenium rectifiers are hard to come by and are expensive if you find one.

The good news is that electronics have come a long way since the 70's. You can by a solid state bridge rectifier that works better than the original one for less than $5.

But, find out if the battery is getting charged first. Then, you should be able to narrow it down from there.

FWIW, I went through the same thing with my 350. Turned out that both the stator and the rectifier had to be replaced to get the charging system to work.
 
#8 ·
I will definitely check to see the status of the battery in a day or so and see if things need to be replaced then. Thanks for the tip.

I may be having electric problems, because both turn signals turn on (except the front left) but none of them are actually flashing. They are more like daytime running lights.

Another thing is the brake light only lights up for the rear brake. Any suggestion to fixing this? Fuses maybe?
 
#9 ·
Now would be a good time to check the wires and connections to see if they are nice an clean, free of any dirt or corrosoion.
When you get your multimeter, if you haven't already, you can buzz out the wires to the Front Lt indicator to see if you have any continuity to establish why it isn't working.

The electrics are not very complicated and of course it will not take much dirt or corrosion to pull th voltage down sufficiently to stop things working.

Good luck with the bike :D
 
#10 ·
Okay... Bike won't start again. This time I know it's the battery. I charged it all last night and it lasted long enough for me to start the bike a couple times and that's it. I am about to go buy a new one... Any suggestion on brands?
 
#11 ·
If you are going lead acid Yuasa is the only way to go IMHO. More expensive than lesser brands but definately much better.
Some guys like gel batteries I have had no experience with them, so I cant comment on them.
I have had several makes of lead acid over the years and now I will not buy anything other than Yuasa.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the reply about the battery. I just went in and said "give me this one" and took off. With the new battery installed, it starts *almost* every time.

A problem I'm having now is that the bike sometimes dies when idling, and also it almost always dies as soon as I come to a stop after riding it. It usually starts right back up, but what could this be? I hate having to start it again every time it comes to a stop.
 
#14 ·
The book? Are you talking about the owner's manual? The bike didn't come with one. I have no idea if the carb is balanced, I need to check into that.

An update. Rode the bike for about 20 minutes today. Ran pretty well except for the fact that it died when I came to stops, but I could just start it with the starter while still moving and be on my way. I believe it happens when I put the clutch in before slowing down???

So the bike was great to ride, plenty of power (and I didn't even take it over 5,000 RPM probably, I was going easy on it). It was all good until the bike wouldn't start. I stopped to talk with friends, he drove it around the block, and then when he got back, I couldn't start it. Eventually, the battery got so low that I couldn't even turn it over, just like the issue I was having last night. And because this is a new battery, it shouldn't already be dead.
 
#15 ·
Sure enough, just charged the battery for about an hour and it turned over fine, but had a weak idle because the battery, I'm assuming, is still low.

I suspect I have charge issues.
 
#16 ·
If you don't fix it before riding, you'll need ANOTHER new battery.....Sounds like you've half-way killed the new one already.......AND, "new" doesn't always mean "good".....
 
#17 ·
I didn't realize that I could kill my battery from that. Whoops! Do you all think it's the rectifier that needs replaced?

Does the battery issue have to do with the fact that it is dying when coming to a stop?

Thanks
 
#18 ·
A weak battery could be a contributing factor, or the entire problem..... Almost any fault in the charging system can cause battery depletion, even a dirty connection or bad ground....Only testing will determine what the problem is.....

When you got the "new" battery, DID YOU charge it at 10% of its rating for ten hours, or just put it in and use it?
 
#20 ·
Where did you buy this battery, and how did they know to charge one up because you'd be coming in to buy it?

Don't misunderstand, a "dry-charged" battery will be fine (most of the time) once the acid is added IF it's put into service in a bike with a GOOD charging system.....I'm pretty sure yours doesn't qualify as such at the moment...
 
#21 ·
It was a store called "Batteries Plus" and they literally only sell batteries. Nothing else. They regularly make sure they charge every battery (at least that's what they told me).
 
#22 ·
Okay, got the multimeter, testing the battery have me 12.5 at idle and 12.7 at 4-5k rpm. What else should I check With the multimeter? I ordered a new rectifier/regulator.