Hello pikl,
Nice find you have there polished up quite nice given it's history. The twin leading shoe front brake will be fine for daily riding, Unless you are going to race it I would not change it. I am not sure about the seat cover, I have seen plenty of CB 350 and SL 350 covers on ebay so that might be a good place to start. With the paint I am unsure what the colour code is but I am sure some one on here can help, Alternatively you could try an auto paint store and get them to do a colour match for you, I do not know the circumstances in your country but here in Australia we can even get a matched paint put into an aerosol can for us. The diaphram (membrane) is probably the cause of your problem so you need to replace it, I do not know of any repairs that would be successful. I do not know of the availability of these parts from the factory but again you could try ebay, I find that most of the parts available for the older Hondas can be sourced primarily from the USA.
Have fun
Alan

 

Zdravo Pikl i dobrodosli za forum!

After visiting my wifes relatives in Subotica last summer on my 1968 CB450 I visited your country and what a beautiful country it is.
I'm not very familliar with the CB360 model but you can get many new parts for your bike from David Silver in the UK and CMSNL in Holland.

 

Welcome to the forum Pikl

 

Alanio, I glued the diaphram with some really strong glue. It works nicely, but i know I need to find a replacement. It runs ok now...
There are people who would mix the color, if i brought them them the tank, but i want to make the color original, and I found the code(its YR 1C).
The seats from cb350 are the same?

Znabb, zdravo!
Thanks for those sites!

 

350 seats are NOT the same as 360 seats.....

 

New diaphrams>>>>> http://jbmindustries.com/

 

Well i finnaly got the new diaphrames, points, sparks and condensers, but unfortunately, snow started falling, so i cant test it

I also found a sissy bar in my junk, and it fits prefectly. It seems like its from a larger Honda...
I found this fairing on ebay, and it seems really nice. I would like some wind protection, and this one, in my opinion, really fits the 360. Looks like a heavy motorcycle
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Cafe-Racer-Drag- ... 48478efee6
Does anybody have any experience with it? I would repaint it to the original color, of course...

I also found this new color for it. Is the candy topaz orange CB360 color? There were many orange Honda-s, so im not shure...
http://www.ebay.de/itm/RH-SPRITZLACK-Se ... 4d057bf284

I also had to take a picture of the front brake, cause it looks awesome I was polishing it a whole day, but its hard to see, cause of picture quality.

 

I finnaly found the time to install the diaphrames, points and condensers.
I took it on a test run, and it worked great untill it hit 6000-7000rpm. At 6000, it stopped for a second, and then started gaining rpm, but not as smooth as before.
When I was back at home, I unplugged the left cilinder spark, and the engine was still working exactly the same, but if i unplugged the right cilinder, it stopped working. I got scared, that i was driving with only one cilinder, but then i tried unplugging it at higher rpm, and it still worked. I guessed the carburators weren't set correctly, so I tried setting them. The left cilinder had 6 bars of pressure, and the right one had only 1 bar. I set the both to about 1,5 bars. Tried it again, but it was even whorse. So i wanted to set the air on the carbs aswell, but there were no instructions in the manual. So I did it as I felt is right... It was still the same
Does anyone know how big the pressure in the carbs should be?
I noticed there is a cover onthe carburators, on the throttle valve (the flap you open and close with the throttle). It seems to be missing on the right side. Does that make any diffrence in the pressure?

Im still thinking about adding a Z900 tipe fairing

I still cant get why it says honda started making 360 motorcycles in 1974... It says its made in 1973 on mine. :?:

 

The plate with the smaller "flapped" hole in it is the CHOKE plate..... These should be wide open once the engine is warmed up.....The throttle plates are closest to the engine, the choke plates closer to the air cleaner........

As to the year, Honda, like any other manufacturer starts production of the 1974 model in September 1973....Manufacture date is NOT the same as model year....

 

I have no cover there. Can that be a problem?
There is a cover on the other carb.

(those are not my carbs...)

 

That cover (the one that is missing) is a seal for the throttle shaft. It can cause a lean condition if missing.

Crazy PJ made some aluminum ones for me, he may be able to do that for you....

Until I replaced mine, I put a light cout of oil on the shaft, (no oil on the sides of the carb body) and filled it with RTV. The RTV won't stick tot he shaft as it has oil, but stuck to the carb and sealed it. The RTV would last a while, then eventually fall out. But it will seal it for a while.

A replacement cover is better.

 

I made a nice aluminium cover with a router, and also added some silicon sealant (the one for cilinder heads) under it. Though the cover was a tight fit, i added the silicon, so its fawless... It should be sealed now. You could feel the pressure from the engine without it, so i hope this was the problem... Now i need to set the carbs again.

 

I still couldnt set the carbs, cause I dont have the equipment for it...
I ordered that bullet fairing, and I decided im gonna also paint it in the orange color, so im waiting for it...
I saw this really nice and cheap LED headlight in this topic:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14974
I am thinking about buying it myself. If I understood it right, it only uses 9W with all lights on. That will probably work great on the old charging system. Im also thinking about changing the tail light to led. LED turn signals would in my opinion have no sense, since they are not on all the time... I'll maybe change the lights on the "dashboard" (speedo and tachometer and the middle lights...). The LED lights also have an uncomparable lifetime. And even if some headlight led lights would stop working, some would still be on... I saw the headlight isnt E-marked, but since its an oldtimer, I think I can get it homologated.
I will probably also switch the rectifier regulator with a kohler.

The regulator/rectifier - http://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Regulat ... =8-1-fkmr0

the headight - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Mot ... uhb=1#shId

the tail light - http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... b/170/767/

I also opened the side cover of the engine. Someone already cleanedthe filter for "the big parts" once, but the other filter (centrifugal one) didnt seem that it was ever cleaned. That didnt worry metoo mutch, but i got scared when i found a small piece of plastic in the engine. I doubt there is any other part of the engine, that is plastic, besides the cam chain tensioner and things related to it. There seems as there was no recall made on the engine. The numbers on the engineand the frame are almost identical, except the last couple of numbers, so i think the engine is original. There are no punch marks on it. I will probably have to open the cilinder head and check everything anyway (adjust the valves...). But if the cam chain tensioner is ok (though it probably isnt...), should i make the recall on it? I was searching on ebay, but i cant find the parts for it.

 

I have read somewhere, that the charging system is all of 130 Watts, when above 3000RPM. Users:
-the ignition system - 40 to 50 watts
-headlight (low beam) - 35 watts
-taillight - 15 watts
-battery needs atleast 10 watts
-20 more watts when you use the brake light
Total consumption is 130 watts.

But if I used the 9 watt headlight and a 1,5 watt taillight, the consumption would be 59,5 watts, so there would be about 55 watts left. could that hurt the battery or anything similar?

 

It would depend if you had a voltage reguator to control available power (V x I =W)

 

Well I was thinking about using this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Regulat ... =8-1-fkmr0

 

Please correct the torque stay bolts on your front wheel....
They need some type of lockwasher (I prefer the folded/hooked tab the 350 and 450's used)....
You won't like it AT ALL if one of them vibrates out......

 

Please correct the torque stay bolts on your front wheel....
They need some type of lockwasher (I prefer the folded/hooked tab the 350 and 450's used)....
You won't like it AT ALL if one of them vibrates out......

I am not 100% shure which bolts do you mean...

This ones?

and lock washer... do you mean using this:

or this

I was disassembling the front wheel and was wondering how it fits together... I will have to disassemble it again anyway, cause i am planning to "refill" the brake shoes...

As i had the front wheel of the forks, i also noticed the main axle wasn't thightened at all. I didnt find any specific torque for it in the manual, and i guessed it dosent need to be really tight, since those four bolts hold it like that...

 

I mean the ones on the "strap" that connects the fork slider and brakeplate..... (above the linkage in your pic)

The axle MUST be correctly torqued for the bearings to function correctly.....40 to 47 ft/lbs on the axle nut.....

The axle cap nuts (the ones you "red arrowed" ) get 13 to 18 ft/lbs and should have both a flat and a lockwasher....

These specs are in the FSM......

 

Oh, well i didnt put them on, cause when i dissasembled it, there was glue on the screws, so i just put the screw glue on them, cause i thought they are not long enouf for lock washers... Thanks, i will put them on. I really dont want to end up with no brakes.

 

I mean the ones on the "strap" that connects the fork slider and brakeplate..... (above the linkage in your pic)

The axle MUST be correctly torqued for the bearings to function correctly.....40 to 47 ft/lbs on the axle nut.....

The axle cap nuts (the ones you "red arrowed" ) get 13 to 18 ft/lbs and should have both a flat and a lockwasher....

These specs are in the FSM......

To add to that, from the Honda Manual, the gap on the axle holders/caps needs to be in the rear, not front. Tighten the front nut first, then the rear.

Steve, my manual says 19.5-23.8 Lbs-Ft. I know Honda sometimes has different information depending on which year the manual was printed. My Manual was the 1976 vintage. the earlier one may of been different. I bought the manual in 1978...LOL...I am getting old...

[attachment=0:2laamj70]Front Axle Cap Tightening.JPG[/attachment:2laamj70]

 

My numbers were from a 350 manual...Oops!

Personally, I just tighten until the NEW lockwasher is fully compressed, Plus a good "snug"....But I'd bet it's within specs....LOL.....

 

I was a mechanic for 10 years before I went back to college for an Engineering degree. I broke enough bolts to educate me hands on a reasonable torque value by feel....Of course, being somewhat older, I find it more difficult to overtighten anything...LOL

I have never used a torque wrench on the rear axle, I just give it everything I got...which is probably right on the upper value...

 

I have a question. As i was cleaning the engine, I saw there is a screw in the frame. It is under the engine, next to the front right lower engine frame mount. It looks really wierd, like it is there to drain oil, and I am wondering what is it for..?
I tried how hard it is tightened, and I couldnt move it.
Is it there to drain the fame, if there is maybe water in it?

Maybe its also not original.

 

No. The motor bolts to a bracket that bolts to the frame. The bracket needs to be removed to remove the engine.
There are 2 bolts that retain the bracket, a long one and short one. The long one goes through the frame rail and screw into the welded not on the bracket.

It is not a drain.


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