Honda Twins banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok ok, i know this should be a simple one, but ive tried it all, hammer, visegrips, wd-40, shear patience and time....NOTHING has worked to loosen my rear break cable from the doodad ....ive even stood on my rear break lever! ideas? anyone had this one happen to them before? if so what was the fix? Also, how do i find out exactly which break shoes i need? I havent a clue exactly what these wheels are off of, and ive previously tried 3 different sets, none of which worked....i seriously am in need of some help! Thanks!
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the frame is a 69 sl350 the engine is a 72 cl350....and the rest is parts off various bikes, which i have no idea about!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Neither.....just stuck in the thingie in the lever.....i put the lever in the wrong position.....after numerous attempts, the las one seemed right, but in the end not so much...I think i still have about 3 pennies of thickness left on the shoes
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
774 Posts
Wow, that's a new one on me.

You're saying the threaded portion where the adjuster nut is, is JAMMED into the part that fits crossways into the lever? Wow.

I'd thread the adjuster nut forward some, then thread on another nut to act as a jam nut. Tighten the jam nut tight up against the adjuster nut, then use a wrench to "unscrew" the adjuster nut. Between tightenting the jam nut and loosening the adjuster nut, you should be able to get that threaded portion to free up.

Standing on the brake pedal should work, too, as long as the brake shoes are making contact inside and the brake pedal isn't bottoming out first (hitting it's own stop). Try blocking the lever somehow (against the swingarm or frame or something) and applying the brake pedal again. Should pull the cable free...


As for what shoes you need - good luck with that. :) If you have no idea what bike the wheels are from, I don't know of any way to positively ID what shoes you'll be needing. :(
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,904 Posts
I think what he's trying to say is that the threaded portion of the cable is actually stuck in the round "nut" that goes into the lever. The threads are probably crossed/ruined, and by standing on the brake lever and using it that way, it more than likely made things even worse. It may have to be "manhandled" to get it out. You may ruin some parts in the process, but I wouldn't be riding that bike i traffic like it is. :shock:

You might try threading the adjuster nut on the end, all the way to the end and then smacking it with a plasic or rubber mallet. Hold the brake lever on the brake assembly still while you're doing this. Also use some good penetrating oil.

As for the shoes once you get it all apart there will be a number on the metal part of the shoes. You can reference that number with the EBC shoe numbers and get replacements.

GB :mrgreen:
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
27,090 Posts
IF my memory serves me, that is the stock brake set-up for a 69 SL 350...... If you install the "arm" improperly, it can literally wedge between the shoes, locking the brakes (regardless of cable or pedal position) Simply hammer it backwards to free it up.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
27,090 Posts
Remove the torque stay bolt...it frees both the wheel and the cable...You may have to also loosen the axle.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
774 Posts
Well, I'm just all turned around as to what's stuck and what isn't.

That threaded portion of the cable isn't supposed to thread into the piece in the lever is it? The threaded portion is just supposed to slip on thru, like the rod on rod-actuated brakes, yeah?

Can you take another picture, slightly backed off? That is, not such a close-up?

At the very least, keep us updated on how it goes.

Kirk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I ride more or less only on the streets, so i gotta have it, guess dirt riding you dont need anything cept your feet to stop you, but i say having only one break is flipping nuts to be riding around on....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok got that god foresken cable off, and replaced it with a solid rod instead....so i got rear breaks agine..... they drag a lil bit, but im sure thell fix themselves after a few miles of stop and go traffic....
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top