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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When my dad bought the CL I promised him I would do all the general maintenance once we got it home. It is a runner. I've got started rebuilding starter clutch and cleaning the oil spinner. So I've run into two problems, one on each side.

Left side, the Big Bolt (TM) that holds the stator on wont back out. I'm using an electric impact driver. When i did this job on my CL175, the impact driver made it come right out. Any tips for loosening that thing up? Sidenote, is the coil supposed to be attached to the side cover on these bikes? I couldn't figure out how to get them apart.

Right side, I've got one completely stripped screw. The head looks like a crater. I figure if I can get the head off I can slide the cover off and use some jam nuts and a wrench to get the remainder of the screw out. But I have never drilled the head off a screw (or whatever I should do here). There isn't enough head to make a slot, I don't think. I want to get it out hopefully without having to buy a whole new tool.
 

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On the first bolt, try an air impact. The second I do not understand what you are talking about, can you post a picture? On the third, take a 1/4" inch drill bit and just drill into the head of the screw. As soon as you see the head spin, you are done. Remove the cover, and you should be able to turn the remainder of the screw out with a pair of pliers.
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Sidenote, is the coil supposed to be attached to the side cover on these bikes? I couldn't figure out how to get them apart.
I've always used an air impact to remove the bolt holding the rotor on the crankshaft, always works. As for a stripped screw head, sometimes you can use a semi-blunt chisel on the outer edge of the head to get it started turning but drilling the head off it will certainly work.

As for your question about the stator coils, if the 350 is like the 450 (and I believe it is), the stator is bolted to the larger cover it's in from the inside, with bolts going into the 3 holes in the stator frame not used by the 3 screw outer alternator cover that is removed to set the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've always used an air impact to remove the bolt holding the rotor on the crankshaft, always works. As for a stripped screw head, sometimes you can use a semi-blunt chisel on the outer edge of the head to get it started turning but drilling the head off it will certainly work.

As for your question about the stator coils, if the 350 is like the 450 (and I believe it is), the stator is bolted to the larger cover it's in from the inside, with bolts going into the 3 holes in the stator frame not used by the 3 screw outer alternator cover that is removed to set the timing.
I've been using an electric impact.I don't have the setup for pneumatic tools unfortunately. Maybe tonight i can try applying heat before using the impact driver.

As for the stator coils, I already removed the screws attaching it to the cover. It must be jammed in real good with dirt and grime.
 

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Try holding the rotor (what I assume you are calling the stator) with and oil filter wrench while breaking the bolt free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Waiting on the arrival of a drill for that stripped screw..

in the meantime I decided to get a look at the carbs. The bike was only firing on the left cylinder, with periodic firing on the right when throttle was applied. I thought it might be a fuel starvation issue, and when I drained the bowls this was all but confirmed as the suspect carb only let out about 1/4 the amount of the other.

So today I got the carbs off and bowls off, and WOW. check out the difference here. Apart from being much dirtier, the carb that had not been performing also has some kind of foamy-looking aftermarket float. A set of floats on 4 into 1 is about $25 so I may just get the complete rebuild kit so I can get the gaskets and float valve/seat as well.

IMG_5883.jpg
 

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Put the transmission in 5th gear and apply the rear brake, then you can unscrew the crankshaft bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Put the transmission in 5th gear and apply the rear brake, then you can unscrew the crankshaft bolt.
unfortunately my problem isn't that the stator wants to turn. I had that problem on my CL175. On this bike the stator just isn't moving but neither is the bolt. I tried it in 1st gear but I will try it in 5th this time. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Motor on or off the frame I use a c-clamp on the rotor . Put a couple of squares of old inner tube between the clamp and rotor, tighten the clamp and block it against the motor then use my torque wrench and 6 point socket to turn the bolt. As you can see there are several ways it can be done. I dont use a impact wrench because I think the jarring can weaken the magnets in the rotor but thats just me.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Haven't had a chance to try that stator again. I did start installing this grab bar that my dad asked me to get. He was having trouble putting it on the stand with nothing to hold onto. I'm wondering, do the blinkers attach to the tabs on the underside of the bar? If so, do I need to get a new type of blinker or some kind of bracket to make them attach?

Here's the part I have, the posts going perpendicular to the bar line up with threaded holes in the frame, but the holes for blinkers are lower than the position of the mounting area of the blinkers.
s-l1600.jpg

I was looking at these (they're different that mine) and they look like those rubber parts and brackets would work nicely with the holes provided on the grab bar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-73-Ho...562443?hash=item520284984b:g:l6cAAOSw43haHDh8
 
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