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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this past December I picked up a ‘76 cb360t from a guy on Craigslist. Supposed to be his weekend “clear his head” rider. Never went fast, always fired right up, never left him stranded, etc., etc.
It had the look I thought I was after. Clubman bars, stylish seat, no front fender very small rear fender, etc...

As they say "looks only get you so far". For comfort reasons I quickly put the original bars back on. Also it turns out the fenders actually serve one hell of a good purpose!! One ride on a "moist" day was all it took to realize I really did need them. The front came with the bike, but the PO had chopped the rear so I got one off the net. Much better now:D

Well, it idles great, gets to about 4K great, but then sputters, spits, and throws all kinds of fits if I ask more from it.
Smallish pods, aftermarket exhaust. (nightmare I know!) I put the stock exhaust back on (came with the bike) and sourced some air boxes from eBay. I wasn't ready to drop $100 for the air filters, so I got some green UNI foam and zip tied it to the intakes of the carbs inside the air box. (I'll try to get a pic of this to show you what I mean)
Believe it or not, it ran better. Still not great, but better. It'd give me about 5-6k before falling on her face. Could of probably cruised it for the summer as is and been ok, but I knew it could/should be better.
"Cleaned" the gas tank. (vinegar with screws) I got quite a bit of crap out of it. I'll do it again, this time slowing down and doing a better job. I still have the tiniest of a rust colored hue in the clear fuel lines.

Ok, let’s look at the carbs. (Keihin 754a) 35, 68, 100 for the jets. All holes and orifices clean the best I could tell. I used carb cleaner, a pic set, and compressed air.
Oops, ripped diaphragm. Ordered 2 replacements and installed them.
Better, but still stumbling.
Set float height. No improvement.
I'll try the jetting process in the future and see if I can get it dialed in. Probably replace everything internal just for giggles, maybe...
Set cam chain tensioner, checked and adjusted valve clearance, adjusted points and used a strobe light to check and adjust timing.
one kick and she purrs like a kitten...just doesn't seem to want to do much else!

Checked battery, 12.4V yes it's a cheap one and needs to be replaced. I will get one.
Looked at coils/ condenser. Tests ok I think. Not real sure exactly. I have resistance, but it's around 3 or 3.5 ohms. I can't find what it's supposed to be in the shop manual. It throws spark on both plugs. Not super sure if it's "good" spark though. Maybe it's just weak?
Probably going to replace anyway with Mikes xs650 system.

Looked and played with the mechanical advance. Seems to be working ok. Everything moves freely and there's no sign of damage.

Seem to be adding suspicion to systems rather than straightening things out, so I'm going to stop and start from the beginning before I totally ruin the "fun" bike I'm suppose to have. I've lurked on this forum long enough now to realize I need to take a more thorough systematic approach to making this bike enjoyable and safe to ride. I'll be using the famous "new old bike checklist" from this forum as a guide. I also have the shop manual and of course you fine people to help me through.

I’ll try this build thing. To be honest, I’ve never been good at doing the updates. I usually get in a groove when working and forget or just don’t take the time to snap pics. Maybe I’ll try to slow down and do a better job of documenting this process.

I also needs to be said that I'm no expert. I have a basic understanding of mechanical things. I know how to use tools. I can follow directions. With the right information and help from this forum, I think this project is well within my capabilities. I'm sure I'll make some mistakes, but it'll get sorted in the end.

Thank you all for helping. I've already benefited from others' questions and builds.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/46806071784/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/33653100918/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/33653100828/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/46614370875/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/46614371075/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/33653100788/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/46614370755/in/dateposted/

Hopefully the pic links work. I'll figure out how to post pics the regular way in the future.


Get back to this soon. Wish me luck...


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It sounds like you have 'pods' fitted? The 4.5K miss is 'normal' without stock air-box and can't be 'jetted out' no matter what anyone else tells you. I've been modifying 360 carbs for years and offer it as a service for 360 owners. It's a hobby not a job so I'm really slow doing them
 
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So this past December I picked up a ‘76 cb360t from a guy on Craigslist....

As they say "looks only get you so far". For comfort reasons I quickly put the original bars back on. Also it turns out the fenders actually serve one hell of a good purpose!!

...I(t) also needs to be said that I'm no expert. I have a basic understanding of mechanical things. I know how to use tools. I can follow directions. With the right information and help from this forum, I think this project is well within my capabilities. I'm sure I'll make some mistakes, but it'll get sorted in the end.
Welcome! I believe you'll fit right in. ;) I'm very glad you learned what I consider the #1 rule of customization. "If it is meant to be used it should be useable."

Personally, I'm a devout tinkerer. I'm never satisfied with normal. :-? I think of myself as unique. Others use the word weird... at least the nice ones. :grin: Make your bike what YOU want it to be. Just be safe and practical. The former leaves little room for interpretation. The latter is wide open.

Good brakes, reliable power, adequate lighting... these are just some necessities. Cover the necessities like your life depends on it because it does. The rest is just furniture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the welcome guys. I'll be updating soon.

CrazyPJ - if I was going to leave the pods I'd already have the carbs in the mail to you, but I'm putting the stock air system back together. I reckon I'll cry once for the ridiculous cost of air filters:eek: Lord knows the half-assed attempt of putting some UNI foam in there didn't work! :rolleyes::grin: You'll see it in the pics coming up. Don't hurt yourself laughing too hard...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Starter shot craps, so I removed all the associated pieces and plugged the hole.

IMG_6659 by Thad Fruits, on Flickr

Stock air boxes sourced from net.

IMG_6672 by Thad Fruits, on Flickr

UNI filter material attempting to avoid buying the internal air filters.

IMG_6691 by Thad Fruits, on Flickr

Are these fuel filters ok? I've since read that the smashed together ball type might not be good for these bikes. Any help?

IMG_6712 by Thad Fruits, on Flickr

Got some more work to do on the tank. I must have been having an off day when I "cleaned" it the first time!!!

IMG_6715 by Thad Fruits, on Flickr

That's all for now. I work shift work so it will be a few days until I can get to work on anything else. It'll be a slow process I see. It's all good.
 

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seat looks good. If you can get hold of some old filters they work well when recovered with foam or cut up paper filter. You may even get away with making a frame as it's the air box itself that is important. A single layer of foam across the air box would work better than having it across intake trumpet, you need the volume of air box available. I use same fuel filters, no problems
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the fuel filters. That’s one thing in my favor. It’s all up from here right!!

I’ll try to source a used set of air filters. I might have to buy them as individuals. I was holding out for a pair, but I don’t think it’s going to happen. I’ve seen and read the filter mods you speak of. Looks doable. Thanks again.


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Watching. I’m having the same prob with my 360. Above 4K, spit and stumble, although I have the stock air boxes/filters.

RE coils. 4into1 has coils that bolt right up to the original mount, mike’s do not IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Definitely going to source used filters and do the UNI foam mod.

I’ll look a little harder at the coils. The xs650 system is supposed to be a great thing. I don’t mind fabricating a few things here and there. We’ll see what I feel like when I get to that point.

On the work cycle right now so it’ll be a few more days before I can get back to it.


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Following. :) Enjoying the process, progress and inspiration. The air box/ filter size info is great to know too.
 

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XS mod has been done a time or two on here should be able to google it and should plop you back here. The 4into1 replacements come highly recomended from many people, which they had them around when I was replacing mine on my bikes.

20110305160233.jpg

20110305171650.jpg

I do like these Emgo ones though, they will flat lay your entire arm out up to the shoulder if you get bit by one. :p :twisted:
 

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Also great introduction on this one, very helpful insightful and informative :cool:
 

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Good work bringing this one back. The stock filters provide an intake runner, similar to a velocity stack. This tunes the intake and the carburetors are jetted for that. I did the foam mod to my 450 K5 and it works great. Look closely at the money, new stock air filters are the best. By the time you have bought used filters, the needed foam and paid for the shipping it might be pretty close to how much the new filters are. Have you looked at the points? Gap and timing are critical to having a good running bike. I have PAMCO and Dyna coils and i works great. Discussing ignition systems on this forum is like asking about oil. There are a lot of opinions. Keep going and you will be rewarded with a great running bike. I bought a new CB360T (Red) in 1975. I rode if from San Diego to Oak Harbor Wa, about 1400 miles in three days. Keep us posted and thanks for the pictures. It is great to see one getting rescued from the Cafe chopping block.
 

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I can attest to the 4into1 coils being decent - my engine turns 10,500 without a miss, though I've not done the comparison of being shocked by either mine or the Emgos... I try to avoid it at all costs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
-frogman- thanks for the coil info. I’ll try to be careful when playing with these things! I’m an electrician by trade, so unfortunately I know all too well about involuntary body movements I’ve ordered from 4into1 before and had a good experience. They’ll get more of my business.

timmerid42- thanks for the kind words

jamespal- thanks for the filter info. I did set the points gap. .013-.014 each side. Timed with a strobe light. It was right on. I’ve looked at all the e-ignition stuff and for sure I’d like to do it. I have read though I should have a good running bike before hand. I can’t really say I have that yet. I’d like to get it sorted first then change it over to e-ignition in the future. Ive recently been tipped off about a transistorized ignition that works with your points. For $79 I thought I might try that.
Any thoughts or suggestions about that?

ancientdad- thanks for the vote of Confidence with the coils from 4into1. I’m a cheapskate by nature but I’m trying hard to put those notions aside on this project. However if the cheaper product is just as good or better...I’m all about it


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Transistorized (electronic) ignitions are the earliest form of electronic ignitions. All ignitions use some form of a triggering device such as: optical, magnetic, FET or points. Old fashioned points ignitions have full battery voltage and current across the points to fire the coils. Electronic ignitions use some form of an amplifier to raise the signal off of the triggering mechanism to a current (voltage) optimum to trigger the coils. In the case of a points electronic ignition, the circuitry lowers the voltage across the point (guessing 1-2 volts) and then amplifies the current to an optimum level to trigger the coils to fire. In an electronic points ignition the points will last longer because the current across them is much lower. This reduces arching. One good thing about a points electronice system is if the electronics fail you could rewire to a non-electronic system on the side of the road and get going again. The downside with this system is it uses the mechanical components of the traditional ignition and things like the point rub block will still wear and this changes the timing over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wonderful information, thank you.

Since I’ll be tearing it down anyway, what are your thoughts on doing the e-ignition right away versus getting the bike running good first?
 

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Wonderful information, thank you.

Since I’ll be tearing it down anyway, what are your thoughts on doing the e-ignition right away versus getting the bike running good first?
Replacing old ignition components (coils, HT wires, plug caps, plugs & points or e-ignition) will only make a poorly running bike run well if it has ignition problems. In this case your carburetor intake is marginal and a known problem. Work the known problems first. If it was me I would take care of the ignition and the air filters, but that is just me. There are others on this site that will have different ideas about these items.

On my CB450K5 it has a fresh rebore, the valves have been ground, the crank is within spec, the cam and followers came from different engines but were serviceable, it has the correct carburetors, the original air filters with the foam replacement, dyna coils, solid copper plug wires, 0 Ohm plug caps and resistor plugs. I'm very happy with the way it runs and it has about 2K since putting it back in the road.

Other things I do is to line the fuel tank with Caswell liner. I do this to all of my bikes. It prevents the tank from rusting. This keeps the carburetors clean. My thing it to have a good running reliable bike.
 
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