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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
But it does the same thing with it out of there. How do I know what he has screwed up how can I tell if he's hacked away at the wires I knew this bike was a bad Buy it runs really good but I'm starting to have electrical issues now that I put in the OEM ignition switch on it
 

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Oh, an easy question tonight.
The tail light fuse isn't getting any power from the ignition switch. So the PO jumped the hot side of the headlight fuse to the hot side of the taillight fuse to get power there.
Next problem:
The PO used an SAE instead of metric fuse for the headlight. It's too long and only makes partial contact with the brass holders. Result is the holders overheat due to poor contact surface and proceed to melt the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, an easy question tonight.
The tail light fuse isn't getting any power from the ignition switch. So the PO jumped the hot side of the headlight fuse to the hot side of the taillight fuse to get power there.
Next problem:
The PO used an SAE instead of metric fuse for the headlight. It's too long and only makes partial contact with the brass holders. Result is the holders overheat due to poor contact surface and proceed to melt the fuse block.
so As long as I have the oem ignition I can obsolete that wire? can you check my other post about the ignition switch wiring and rear turn signals. you sound like you know what you're talking about maybe you have an answer for that too. also, so i need to replace the fuse with a metric fuse?
 

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Good luck finding metric fuses. (then again it might be easy, I never really looked) Your best bet going forward would be switching to a blade style automotive fuse and holder. Something similar to this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also assume that when I pull that wire when I have the original or what I think is the original OEM ignition switch plugged in it stays on?
 

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Well, looks like you found metric fuses. As I said I never really looked. I'm using full size ATC fuses in my homebrew set up. I can't think of a reason that you couldn't use the mini fuses. Being it is cheap and simple I would recommend wiring up a new fuse block. Mine cost under $5 and took an afternoon but I also had soldering equipment and other supplies. Of course it can be done using crimp ends and many would recommend crimps over solder any way.

Using relays for HI and LO beam allows you to use a heavier gauge wire which will flow more current and make for a brighter headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Also this ground came out of place. my front turn signals are constantly on even when I flip the turn signal switch I have to manually use it only for my front turn signals my rear turn signals do not work at all filaments on the light are in tact. On both signals. When I touch this ground back to where it's supposed to be grounded to on the left rear turn signal as you can see I'm holding in place they still don't turn on could it be my flasher? They quit working last season I'm checking all of my ground connections tomorrow
 

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The extra wire on the fuse block should be removed. You should have battery voltage on the right side of the fuse block with the key ON and if the fuses are good with clean contacts the same reading on the left side brass holders.
It's quite possible that a 40 year old flasher has died and won't flash the lights anymore. Pickup a new one at the auto parts store, basic 12V 2 wire flasher.
It'll take time and patience but you need to follow each wire in the diagram with a VOM and check voltages as you go. This will be a one time thing since once everything is sorted and corrected it won't change unless you let some monkey work on the bike.
 

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You know that your UK Cousins can get the metric fuses for you don’t you? Just ask. Your welcome!
 
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Oh, an easy question tonight.
The tail light fuse isn't getting any power from the ignition switch. So the PO jumped the hot side of the headlight fuse to the hot side of the taillight fuse to get power there.
Next problem:
The PO used an SAE instead of metric fuse for the headlight. It's too long and only makes partial contact with the brass holders. Result is the holders overheat due to poor contact surface and proceed to melt the fuse block.
Taillight power comes from the park lamp contact in the ignition switch

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 
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