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Hi all, not sure if I'm the only one, but I never bothered torquing my spark plugs until I read this https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/tech-talk/spark-plug-installation.
Thought it was worth a share as it instantly solved a heat range issue with plugs in my CB360. Torqued plugs up to 20ftlb per ngk specs and fixed it immediately. (Thanks to CrazyPJ for pointing the heat range issue out to me in the first place, the guy is an absolute guru!)
 

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Can't hurt.

Most issues seem to arise from over-torquing (esp. if your bike's previous owner was a gorilla). I've always been from the hand tight plus 1/4-1/2 turn for the seal.
 

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Can't hurt.

Most issues seem to arise from over-torquing (esp. if your bike's previous owner was a gorilla). I've always been from the hand tight plus 1/4-1/2 turn for the seal.
^ This exactly. I never knew that there was a "torque spec", so I just followed the diagrams on the spark plug box. Never had them wiggle out nor get stuck on the threads.
 

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Besides wrecking the threads in the hole, over Torquing will change the plug gap.
 

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Im with alan. Hand tight then a little wrist turn. On plugs with a washer just till I feel the washer compress.


Bill
 

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Basic rule of thumb: with a new casket, hand tight plus a quarter turn.
 

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Interesting - I'm going to guess that very few of the posters on this thread bothered to Click the Link to the NGK Site.
It seems that Most of us use:
1/4 to 1/2 Turn as a common Rule of Thumb.

BUT: If you actually CLICK the Link in the Original Post and look at the NGK Web Site Spec's.
They say 1/2 to 2/3 Turn after finger tight.

They describe issues related to Heat Transfer and give ranges that would apply to the 350 Twins:

Aluminum Head:
14 mm Plug with Flat Seal & Gasket - 18.0 to 21.6 Ft Lbs.
 

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I just index them, besides the torque values are useless to me since I use anti seize on my and I'm too lazy to calculate a wet torque. :mrgreen:
 

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Interesting - I'm going to guess that very few of the posters on this thread bothered to Click the Link to the NGK Site.
It seems that Most of us use:
1/4 to 1/2 Turn as a common Rule of Thumb.

BUT: If you actually CLICK the Link in the Original Post and look at the NGK Web Site Spec's.
They say 1/2 to 2/3 Turn after finger tight.
I read it. The 1/2 to 2/3 turn figure is given as a guide for lawn and garden equipment.

Another NGK guide (below) quotes - in the absence of a torque wrench - tightening plugs from between 1/3 to 2/3 of a turn depending on the plug diameter. For plugs of 10-12mm diameter, the recommended figure is fingertight plus 1/2 turn for new plugs - and finger tight plus 1/12 of a turn for older/already seated plugs.

http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
 

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I just index them, besides the torque values are useless to me since I use anti seize on my and I'm too lazy to calculate a wet torque. :mrgreen:
How do you index them Jim - just tighten them to the desired position ?
 

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having stripped enough threads on these very soft aluminum engines I ALWAYS use a TW. For everything. And for plugs I do what the label says hand tight then 1/3-1/2 turn.
 
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