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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
laced up a new rear rim today, I have a dial indicator and a balancing stand, how close to perfect do they really have to be? I seem to not be able to do much better than 5-10 thousandths for concentricity and run out, any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated..
Thanks,
Greg
 

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Thousandths of an inch, or of a mm?...LMAO!






Just kidding... Acceptable variance is anything less than 2mm (.08 in)..... If you get it to less than half that variance, you are probably truer than any stock wheel, even mags.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve,
I wondered if I was becoming a prisoner of my own perspective, glad I knocked off before I spent all evening with the spoke wrench. Tomorrow I'll mount up the tire and balance the whole mess, hope the tire goes on better than the Avon I put on the front, what a PITA!
Greg
(I was talking inches, It's a 9 dollar indicator)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used this site, http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle- ... ke-wheels/ as for tips,

its not hard just tedious ;)

buy a good spoke wrench, I'm using one of the 1 in 6 type made by rowe, but I think the motion pro type would be better.

oil the threads well, you don't want any galling or binding

Start by threading all 40 spokes into the wheel center

there are 10 sets of 4 spokes inner left, outer left, inner right, outer right. start with an inner set so you don't inadvertently trap a loose spoke and have to undo work. every fourth hole for a 40 spoke rim is angled for a specific spoke of the four spoke group, once you find one its as easy as jumping four holes to the next one (do this with the wheel laying down) once all the spokes are in you can put the wheel on the truing stand..

tighten the spokes evenly progressively and in small steps, when you are no longer coming across loose ones (rattle loose) start tightening for a desired result, (ie to remove whoops and wobbles) you may have to loosen the opposite spokes to remove larger problems.

I'll post a few pics of my setup and results tonight.
Greg

you can true them on the bike, I use my wheel balancing stand with a cheap dial indicator, but if you clamp something close to the rim for a gauge you can do a fine job by eye not toughing, just gauge the distance by eye.

The end result will have all the spokes tensioned equally (buchannans says 70 inch pounds for maximum wheel durability) and like steve says a max 2mm run out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
finished up truing at .010" out of round and .015" run out the tire was a bastard to mount just like the front one, don't know if the combination of tube in a tubeless tire was to blame or maybe avons are just a little small.. Next time I'm going to pay someone to mount it ;)
 

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HerrDeacon said:
tbpmusic said:
I use an old swingarm clamped in a vice as a "truing stand".......
Do you use a dial similar to the one in the pics? If so, how do you have it mounted?
A magnetic block/clamp thingy - if the plunger isn't long enough, tape an extension to it. Or you could even just duct tape it all into place, no big deal.
Actually, you don't even need an indicator at all, just use a piece of wire taped to the "stand", touching the wheel at its closest point, then eyeball what's happening as it spins.

This is not something I do all that often, particularly the lacing part - it's the sort of thing that's half art, half science, and all technique, so if I don't do it a lot I won't be all that good at it.

I've even been known to take a customer's wheel to a local bicycle shop to get it done - there are Olde Fartes there who've done wheels every day for 40 years, and are very good/fast at it.
Discretion is the better part of valor, particularly with a customer's bike.........
 
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