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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all...

Just picked up a 76 360T yesterday for a good price, and getting ready to begin the (hopefully) long, fun and painful process of getting it on the road and looking good!

I got it for around 500 bucks with 8k miles, and it has been somewhat neglected and somewhat helped along... a little of both. For starters (no pun intended) I am certain that it needs a new battery. I am also certain that it needs front brakes, as it currently has NONE... not even a lever or old cylinder. Also CLEARLY needs some serious muffler love.

In the end, I am wanting to work together a nice cafe style seat for it, put side covers on it (not really into moving the battery... yet!) and give it a good shine and redo the paint. I am basically just looking for a decent looking, well running cool old bike that saves me some gas... just sold my old American muscle car, and figured what better time to put some time into something more efficient!

So, my question to you knowledgeable folk is this; where the hell should I start? Of course, I want to do what I can for as cost effective as possible, and I want to get started ASAP. I have not owned or even done much riding for MANY years, and my base knowledge of bikes is minimal, but I am mechanically inclined and patient, and trust myself to take my time in learning and doing it right, and I am counting the work being half the fun here. So I am hoping to get a good start on it soon, and do the logical things in the logical order... I would like to have it running well and safe for neighborhood use soon, leaving the winter to really get into it.

Browsed around some and saw some GREAT looking bikes and advice on here, and it seems that this is the group to ask for assistance!!

If anyone feels so inclined, throw me a link to places to learn more about this bike, source parts, see pics, etc...

Thanks folks!!


 

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Change oil.... Hotwire/Jump off car/clean carbs/whatever to get it warmed up...Check compression (if you don't want to or can't, check compression cold.)........ If possible, do a leak-down test as well.... These two things will tell you almost everything you need to know before proceeding
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
66Sprint said:
Change oil.... Hotwire/Jump off car/clean carbs/whatever to get it warmed up...Check compression (if you don't want to or can't, check compression cold.)........ If possible, do a leak-down test as well.... These two things will tell you almost everything you need to know before proceeding
Awesome, thanks for the tip!

That gives me a good place to start! Now, uhhhm, how exactly do I go about checking the compression? Ha!

Thanks man!

**edit**

I also am hoping to find a Clymer's manual for this thing, if anyone knows of a good online source or anything let me know. I think that will likely answer a good majority of my goofy newbie questions!!
 

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I just ordered a Clymers for my CM400 form the Motor Bookstore. They sent me an e-mail when they shipped it including a tracking number showing me where the USPS thinks it is. Theoretically, I should receive it Monday.

Cost was $28.01.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
tbpmusic said:
Dennis Broadway said:
I also am hoping to find a Clymer's manual for this thing, if anyone knows of a good online source or anything let me know. I think that will likely answer a good majority of my goofy newbie questions!!
Here's the real Honda Manual - forget Clymer....

http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic3/Honda_CB250_CB360_CL360_CJ250T_CJ360T_Shop_Manual.pdf
Ah! Great!!! Thanks a ton!

J-T, thanks for the tip too! I went ahead and ordered a Clymer manual from there too... no such thing as too much help!
 

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That's great. I tried going to comcast for the CM400 manual but my computer illiteracy (for which I am a local legend) prevented a successful venture.

Got a link for that one too?
 

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JT...That was a link.... Just click on it... It's a large file, takes a while to load, and you'll need Adobe reader to open it....
 

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I clicked on the link, works great but the manual is for the 350 and 360. I'm looking for one for the CM400.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got the bike home and in the garage today... no issues so far!

I can't get out to buy a new battery today, so I figured I would go ahead and drain and change the oil, get the plugs out and looked at, etc...

Only problem is, the oil drain plug is REALLY on there... I could not budge it. Then again, I am tired and hot today, and don't have time to be screwing around until the weekend is over anyway, so I figure tomorrow I will go get battery and plugs, and change the oil then and check the compression.

Pretty damn happy just to have it in the garage though!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just scored a complete front brake system!

On the way now, but I have ZERO time this week/weekend, so starting in Monday I will be starting the process in earnest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmmmm....

I was just messing around in the garage doing an unrelated task, and I happened to notice fuel leaking from the underside of the carbs. Any thoughts as to the likely cause of this malady? Is it possible that some grime or dirt in the carbs has stuck the float or something?

I am planning on rebuilding the carbs, of course, so I am going to be getting in there eventually anyway, I just wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts.
 

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Have you tested the petcock for leakage? If not then run some fuel hose into a 20oz sealed bottle (tape it up to stop evaporation) leave it in the OFF position and put the bottle on the floor. Leave it for at least 24 hours, that way the tank will be cold at night (little pressure) and warm during the day (more pressure), and see what happens.

It could be your float position needing set, a hole in a float, a cracked overflow tube, or just worn out float needle valves.

Oh yeah, DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE now that this has happened! There may be fuel in the crankcase now, so an oil change will be necessary AFTER verifying petcock condition and figuring out your carb overflow problem.

Regardless, you should never leave your petcock in the on position when its parked.


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
Have you tested the petcock for leakage? If not then run some fuel hose into a 20oz sealed bottle (tape it up to stop evaporation) leave it in the OFF position and put the bottle on the floor. Leave it for at least 24 hours, that way the tank will be cold at night (little pressure) and warm during the day (more pressure), and see what happens.

It could be your float position needing set, a hole in a float, a cracked overflow tube, or just worn out float needle valves.

Oh yeah, DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE now that this has happened! There may be fuel in the crankcase now, so an oil change will be necessary AFTER verifying petcock condition and figuring out your carb overflow problem.

Regardless, you should never leave your petcock in the on position when its parked.


GB :mrgreen:
Thanks for the tip...

I was thinking I would do the leakage test, but I just got word from a neighborhood buddy who has been riding cb twins for decades that he is coming over next Monday to give the whole thing his attention and give me some guidance on what to do. Pretty happy to have some with more knowledge than me (not hard to do, since my knowledge is pretty firmly set at zero!) looking at it with me!

Oh, and... I was POSITIVE that I turned the petcock to "off" when I parked it. Like, 100% certain. Then I went and double checked... I WAS WRONG :oops: :oops: !!

Thanks again!
 

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No problem, that's why we're here. I'd still recommend doing the "overnight" test on the petcock in the OFF position to verify it functions correctly. Then if it does shut off the fuel you may have float needle valve/float height problems.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update!!

Been super swamped (unexpectedly) and haven't had a spare second until today to mess with the bike. But, today I scored a spare 2 hours, so I did the following:

Got a new battery.
Got some new plugs.
Did a compression test.

Compression was okay, 130-135. According to Clymers, this is adequate, if not ideal. Is that correct, or is that Clymers being too forgiving? That was a cold test, BTW.

Was hoping to change the oil, but that damn drain plug is really stuck! I soaked it with Liquid Wrench, and gave it the old college try, but it won't budge. I'm fearful that if I tried much harder, I would damage the thing and really be screwed. Even gave it the old "knock the wrench with the rubber mallet" effort!! I really want to get the oil out of it and inspected and changed so I can start it up... any tips?

In the extended downtime, however, I did snag a set of side covers, so that's good at least!
 

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An electric impact works VERY NICELY on that drain plug. Or a little localized heat from a small propane torch on the case surrounding the plug, then the breaker bar.. The impact is your best bet...

Afterwards apply a little silver anti-seize to the threads for future removal..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, I was thinking impact would be the way to go. I can do that tomorrow, so that's good to know. Should I assume that with the readiness of that reply this is a relatively common problem?

Dirtbag; not yet, so I'm guessing they'll arrive today.
 

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Sorry to thread jack here...
What should I do if the PO rounded off the hex on the drain bolt :shock:
 
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