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Discussion Starter #61
It looks pretty nice... but no luck starting it. It backfired and had some intermittent rattling noise when I’d hit the electric start. I think I need to adjust the tappets and timing again.

Here is a bigger mystery I could use help with: when I put it in first, pull the clutch, and try to kickstart it, the bike rolls forward. So it seems the clutch isn’t disengaging the gears. I went into the left cover and completely cleaned it and greased it. All the parts were there. I adjusted it, and it was still not working. Pulled the right side to look at the clutch pack and the discs all seemed fine. How many is it supposed to have? I found eight fiber plates and seven of the smooth plates. They looked pretty good, plenty oily and not badly worn.

One small success today: installed an led tail light strip I got off of Amazon for $10. Not bad!
 

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when I put it in first, pull the clutch, and try to kickstart it, the bike rolls forward.
The CL360 did not have primary kick start like the SL350K1. The kick start on the 360 drives through the clutch, so the reaction is normal. It has to be in neural to use the kick start, or use the electric start if it's in gear
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Ah, interesting. I didn’t mention it earlier, but the reason I was trying to kickstart in first was that when I tried to kick it in neutral, the kickstart lever felt really light, like it wasn’t driving the pistons up down at all. Nothing seemed to be happening.

Like I said, I think I should redo the valve adjustments and timing... maybe then I’ll get some action when I kick it.
 

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If it feels like the kick starter isn't turning the engine over in neutral, it could be your clutch adjustment - due to the fact that it does drive the crankshaft through the clutch. If you don't have enough free play in the clutch lever, it could allow the clutch to slip when trying to kick over the engine
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Yes, one of my to-dos before attempting to start again is the timing. However, I am not really following what you’re saying about getting the cam on the advance unit 180 out. Can you explain? Thanks.
 

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The lobe that actually opens the points - I call it the breaker cam, don't know what Honda calls it - is removable from the rest of the advance unit. Sometimes when you're removing the advancer from the camshaft end, the breaker cam pulls off because the main portion of the advancer is stuck on the shaft. If that happens, the breaker cam can be put back on 2 ways, and one of them is 180° out and the engine will never run, only backfire
 

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Discussion Starter #68
It’s alive! Rebuilt the clutch mechanism, adjusted the valves again, and adjusted the timing per the sticky post in the electrical discussion of the 360 forum, and it came to life after just a few kicks! Scared the bejesus out of me and I turned it off. Tried to restart and it wouldn’t go again until I realized I still had the kill switch off. ???

Took it for a little spin around the neighborhood and was pretty pleased overall! Still some odds and ends to see to, but this was a great milestone to hit!
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Took the 360 out for a shakedown yesterday. It rode amazing for about 5 miles. Then things went downhill. While downshifting into a stop, the engine died. Then it was difficult to start. Idling was inconsistent once I got it going. As I rode home, the engine was bogging and not nearly as snappy and responsive as it was when I started the ride. Then, it died again and I had to walk the last couple miles home. Later on, it started up just fine, but idling was very inconsistent. No matter what I did with the idle screw, it wouldn’t remain at a nice 1200rpm.

I think I will start by cleaning out the carb jets and add inline fuel filters. While I did clean the petcock in an ultrasonic, I think the old gas filter might not be up to the task. My tank is in good shape, but I bet there are some floaters that might funk up the carbs. While I’m at it, I’ll sync the carbs too.

Another concern: After looking at my spark plugs, it seems my engine is running hot. I think that my oil was low — the engine had no oil in it when I started working on it, so I’ve had to top it off regularly. I think the oil is still getting back into all the books and crannies, leading to a lower level. No oil leaks I can see. Also, I think the mix is a little lean. I had the air screws 1.5 turns out, so I’m going to go another half turn out.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll revisit the tappet adjustments and timing. Based on the troubleshooting info in the manual, it seems those might be suspect. However, as I mentioned earlier, the bike wouldn’t start, I readjusted then, and it started right away. I know, not airtight reasoning. If it comes to it, I’ll work on those again.
 

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99% of fueling issues on 360s are electrical... Its a joke but 99% percent of the time we think its a fueling issue its a electrical. 360s live off their batteries, if they are not charging correctly it will die and act stupid like its running out of fuel. I would charge that battery and see if it will idle. As long as there are no holes in the brass screen in the petcock it will do as good of job filtering out stuff as any inline filter will do. Anything that gets through that screen is small enough to pass through the jets. And you can buy replacement screens all over.

Another thing to check, pop the gas cap and see if it runs well. The vent's in them can clog up.

You did change the stock airfiilter setup to something with less surface area so unless they are freeer flowing than the stock filters you should be running kind of rich. Does sound good at idle though. The Air screws only adjust the IDLE mixture not any thing past about 1/8 throttle. If you are out and about, give it about a 1/4 choke and see if it likes it a bit those plugs look lean and hot. If it does you need to be looking at changing primary jets to a bit larger size. A series of plug chops at mid/high rang will tell you the status of fuel mixture and jetting changes needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Ah this is good thank you Franz.
  • Battery charge is good. I’ve been careful to keep it on the tender. When it died on that ride, the starter motor was firing.
  • How do I go about cleaning the fuel cap vent? I don’t really understand how it works in general.
  • The pod filters I have are probably delivering more air so that could be the cause of lean condition. I’m going to do one thing at a time right now but eventually the jets may get bigger. I assume you go up in size on both main and secondary together? Or one at a time?
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Idle is still misbehaving. It started up super easy, gradually revved higher after I slowly opened the choke. It ran a bit fast for awhile then started to slow and died. Wouldn’t start easily after that.
  • Battery is ok.
  • E starter fires and starts engine on first start attempt. Still fires on subsequent attempts but engine won’t catch
  • Gas is flowing to carbs.
  • Fuel vent is ok.
  • Coils are sparking the plugs and I do not think the engine is missing or even backfiring.
  • Choke works.
  • Oil level is ok.
  • Mufflers aren’t obstructed
BUT:
  • Engine seems to be running hot. Jets might be too lean.
  • Not sure that gas flow from fuel inlet to float valve is clear (shoulda checked!)
  • Throttle response is sluggish off idle.
  • Float height may not be exactly correct
  • Float needle might be sticky in the valve (original brass)
As you can see, I’m leaning toward more troubleshooting of the fuel system. May get a carb rebuild kit to replace the float needle and valve as well as the main tubes. Unfortunately replacement floats are hard to come by, it seems. Mine are a little wonky but not bad I think.
 

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You're sure of your ignition timing? Some of what you've described reminds me of how these engines react when the timing is retarded - they get up in the revs a bit and the timing advances and it "likes" to be there, and is slow to come down, then when it does it stalls because it is too retarded to stay running and it also makes re-starts difficult
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Good point, I am not 100% confident about my timing. However, here is one additional note: Last weekend, I tried to start it (first time since I started working on the bike four months ago). It wouldn’t start. I re-checked the valves, and adjusted the timing again per the sticky instructions post in the 360 forum. The next day, it started right up. Not saying that proves my timing is dialed, but it’s an interesting piece of evidence. Also, the bike ran beautifully for about five miles on Wednesday before dying while downshifting to a stop. That is when all of the troubles started.
 

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Get it started and leave the choke on about half or more, see if it likes the richer mix. Just from experience with these engines, you will need to re-jet for those mufflers at least, for sure the filters.

And to expand on what tom said, I will mention this. Its not so much that the timing is off, its possible your advance unit is not working correctly either and is slow to return to idle settings, Either the springs are worn or the unit is gummy and not returning like it should. The video you posted earlier sounded dead on so hopefully nothing major happened.
 
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