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Discussion Starter #1
the book says I can use a stator rotor pulling tool or the rear axle of a 350, fresh out of both. This is on my stuck parts motor I'm taking apart. Is there some way of telling how good the magnets are in it?
 

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Sensei
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How hard do you have to pull to remove a stuck-to-the-magnet wrench or strap of steel?

Pretty sure the 350 axle was JIS threading, so 16mm x 1.5 pitch IIRC......
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No it's not stuck to the stator from the magnets I have the cover off I think it's stuck on the crankshaft due to rust maybe. I have a puller that I could hook to it but I was afraid I might damage it. I'll stop at the hardware for a bolt later thanks. To pull or not to pull, if you look at the edge it looks as it might have been dropped or hit. I did read where hitting it with a hammer or anything else was not advised as it could affect the magnets. It's magnets are still strong and I'm trying to salvage everything I can from this motor so if pulling it like this might damage it, it would be nice to know.

thumbnail (15).jpg

Oh yea having trouble getting the cylinder loose, did I show the rust issue

thumbnail (7).jpg
 

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Sensei
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Just installing that "wrong" puller for the pic may have already damaged the rotor....You are likely OK if there was no pressure applied....DON'T USE THAT!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I just put it on for the pic. I know I read in my Clymer manual that "if a puller is not available, a suitable substitute can be fabricated by grinding away some of the threads from a CB350 rear axle shaft, then welding the other end to a discarded socket wrench or hex bolt." Now it is not too specific how to grind or shape the tool or really how to use it or a puller if you had one. I am just guessing that you would taper the tip to fit the center of the crank and screw it in. It looks like it is press fit with a key slot in the shaft. The guy I got the bike from collects 350's I will call and see if he has a spare axle, or go to the shop tomorrow and see if he has a tool I may use.
 

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I have a puller at home. If I remember I'll get measurements off of it tonight.

I had to use an electric impact to get mine off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks I'm going by the shop in town today to see if he has one I can borrow. Not in no real hurry, the factory manual shows it and list a part # for it so I'll do a search for one. I hate to keep borrowing stuff from the shop and not buying anything. I did buy a helmet a couple weeks ago though.
 

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Assuming that the 175/200 rotor is similar.

I used a big bolt and my electric impact wrench, just screwed the bolt into the rotor, quick rattle with the electric wrench and it popped right off, no need to lock up transmission.

rotor1.JPG

From memory, M16 x 1.5 bolt, 24mm socket required.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Assuming that the 175/200 rotor is similar.

I used a big bolt and my electric impact wrench, just screwed the bolt into the rotor, quick rattle with the electric wrench and it popped right off, no need to lock up transmission.

View attachment 280962

From memory, M16 x 1.5 bolt, 24mm socket required.
Yea, thanks that's what I did but I paid $8.00 for the pulling bolt which is fully threaded. Came right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Assuming that the 175/200 rotor is similar.

I used a big bolt and my electric impact wrench, just screwed the bolt into the rotor, quick rattle with the electric wrench and it popped right off, no need to lock up transmission.

View attachment 280962

From memory, M16 x 1.5 bolt, 24mm socket required.
Yea, thanks that's what I did but I paid $8.00 for the pulling bolt which is fully threaded. Came right off.
 
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