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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm pretty sure this topic has been discussed to death on this forum as well as every other forum, but it's difficult to search for "oil" and find what you're looking for...either too many non-related posts with the word oil or you just can't search for oil as it's "too common" or "too short" of a word.

Anyway, are you guys using Honda oil?...a wet clutch motorcycle specific oil?...any old 10w30?
 

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mtnlvr said:
I'm pretty sure this topic has been discussed to death on this forum as well as every other forum, but it's difficult to search for "oil" and find what you're looking for...either too many non-related posts with the word oil or you just can't search for oil as it's "too common" or "too short" of a word.

Anyway, are you guys using Honda oil?...a wet clutch motorcycle specific oil?...any old 10w30?

Any 10-30, 10-40 or 20-50 that I have on hand usually does the trick for me and I've never had a clutch problem related to oil or a motor problem related to oil. I change it frequently or at least per the frequency the manual suggests and I've been and should be be as well.
 

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Ditto. Whatever's cheapest. 10-40 or 20-50 'cause it never really gets cold here in Orlando.

And on my bikes, they're all so vintage that NONE usually have an oil filter, so I'm changing the oil every 1000 miles.

Never had an oil-related engine or clutch problem, unless you count the one where the countershaft seal backed out and all the oil was LOST! I guess that counts as a lack-of-oil-related failure. :D
 

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Well this should be fun. Talking about oil always seems to stir up some interesting opinions.
Since I'm a newer rider, I've only changed my oil 3 times. The first oil change was with Hondaline GN4 10w-40. Ran that oil 1000 miles and had no complaints. Second oil change I thought I'd "baby" my bike and gave it some Amsoil motorcycle specific 10W-40. Again, ran 1000 miles. My sense though was that with the Amsoil I could hear the mechanical action of the motor a bit more and the clutch didn't begin to engage quite the same way, kind of on or off. Just recently did my third oil change and since wasn't impressed with the Amsoil I looked on the shelf for what was cheapest. Ended up with Motul 3000 10w-40. After the change the engine was much quieter and the clutch engagement was significantly improved and progressive. I'd say it was even better than the Hondaline but that's just my subjective opinion. Oh and I changed the filter each time.
 

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I end up using a lot of 15w40 diesel oil from Shell. It's cheap and it works in my motorcycle engines, the forks, the transmission of one of my cars, etc... I keep a few gallons of it around at all times.



It's reported to not eat up the brass synchros in my car transmission and not to cause clutch slip on wet plate stuff like motorcycles and scooters.
 

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same here...rotella in all my bikes, better and cheeper then most...it was originally recommended to me by the folks at Megacycle because of the zinc content being easier on their hardfaced cams.
 

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RotellaT 30wt in EVERY engine/tranny i own. my wet clutches get gummed up if not ridden for a month+. i put in gear, disengage clutch and rock bike PRIOR to engine firing to avoid that pesky "clunk."

cars: every 3,000mi 4qts pan, 2qts trans
cycles: every 1,000mi ~2qts
 

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shell just certified their Rotella oil with the jaso MA non energy conserving wet clutch spec, that's what I'd use, or conventional Castrol 4t bike oil I usually mix some 1040 and 2050 to get a little higher viscosity when its hot out. I just upgraded my cb450k5 with the capolini oil filter got rid of the centrifugal spinner and replaced it with a Suzuki paper cartridge. so I don't feel bad extending the oil change interval a little.
 

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ihatespeed said:
shell just certified their Rotella oil with the jaso MA non energy conserving wet clutch spec, that's what I'd use, or conventional Castrol 4t bike oil I usually mix some 1040 and 2050 to get a little higher viscosity when its hot out. I just upgraded my cb450k5 with the capolini oil filter got rid of the centrifugal spinner and replaced it with a Suzuki paper cartridge. so I don't feel bad extending the oil change interval a little.

Off topic, but how did you get rid of the centrifugal filter? I thought they were integral in the passage for oil going to the crankshaft? I thought the oil pump sent oil up to the head, over to the transmission shafts, and to the centrifugal filter all at once. The oil passed thru the filter on it's way into the crankshaft.

Just curious.


*EDIT* My bad. I just did a little research, that's how the oil flows in Honda's singles of the early~mid 70s. 350s and such, the oil entered the spinner and flowed right back out again to go everywhere. Since I'm just wrapping up my CL100 overhaul, I guess I had them on the brain.

Nevermind... :oops: :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow...lot's of Rotella users...at least of those that are posting.

So far, all I've used is the Honda oil, which I may continue to use until I fix the issue of gas leaking into the oil. Until that's all flushed through ;) I'll probably use some Rotella. Long term I still feel like I should use a motorcycle specific oil for the wet clutch.
 

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shell rotella 15w-40 or chevron delo 15w-40 or mobil delvac 15w-40.. cj rated hd oils. All of these oils are almost identical and rated hd diesel oils with lots of very very good addtives. Just enough to be good, but reduced just enough for wet clutches. Zinc and molly were reduced for the new diesel particulate filters over earlier versions of cf rated oils. Also, they are availible at almost all autoparts, all walmarts and all truck stops but oddly in gallon containers vrs quart container.
 

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JASO MA is the standard your oil needs to meet to be sure it won't make your cluch slip. Car oil does not meet this standard and could cause clutch trouble over time.
 

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i tried mobile one 10-30 when they switched to only offering full-syn, and boy did that clutch SLIP!!
 

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burke7391 said:
I've read about people with 175s in england using cooking oil or Baileys liquor when they got stuck.
I might pour cooking oil in my bike, but Baileys?..........................That's just wrong!

Oh yeah, I use Rotella.
 

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sotxbill said:
shell rotella 15w-40 or chevron delo 15w-40 or mobil delvac 15w-40.. cj rated hd oils. All of these oils are almost identical and rated hd diesel oils with lots of very very good addtives. Just enough to be good, but reduced just enough for wet clutches. Zinc and molly were reduced for the new diesel particulate filters over earlier versions of cf rated oils. Also, they are availible at almost all autoparts, all walmarts and all truck stops but oddly in gallon containers vrs quart container.

The reason they are mainly seen in GALLON containers is that a small diesel engine (not counting small cars) generally holds 3.5 GALLONS of oil. Big ones hold 10 - 15 GALLONS. The dipstick is often marked for 2 quarts from full to add on a diesel pickup (Cummins Dodge) and if I remember right 2 GALLONS on a semi.
 

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I use nothing but Mobil1 full synthetic in my DRZ400 with no clutch issues at all. I wonder what the difference is between the clutch plates in the Dizzer and replacement clutch plates for our vintage bikes??


GB :mrgreen:
 

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it might have more to do with the spring rates. 40-60 hp isn't much to clamp down.. has anyone else had issues with Honda clutches and full-syn?
 

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What I'm getting at is the fact that some people have said that they've had problems with vintage bikes and the clutch slipping using synthetic and yet my DRZ uses full synthetic and does just fine. There can't be that big of a difference in the clutch friction disk material between the DRZ and the replacement clutch plates for our vintage bikes.. Similar horsepower ratings too..

I'd suspect worn (too smooth) clutch plates, or weak springs in the vintage bikes as a cause of the slipping when using synthetic..


GB :mrgreen:
 
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