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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As a first post to my project log, I am reproducing my Member Introduction post. I am in the process of defining the scope of my CB360 project, but I have enjoyed reading the project logs of others so much (whether focused or rambling in nature), that I thought I should make a contribution.

I titled my project "West Texas 1975 CB360T" because vintage Japanese bikes seem to be extremely rare in West Texas. I scoured the internet to find this bike, paid too much for it, and then had to add another limb to have the thing shipped out here. Totaly worth it to me, but my wife would disagree.

Here is my Intro post:

What a great site and resource!! I have been lurking for weeks while I have been searching for a bike. This is my first street bike (other than a couple of motor scooters in the 80s), and the first motorcycle I have owned in about 20 years (previous was a small Honda dirt bike). I live in West Texas in the city of Midland, TX. I have been wanting a motorcycle again for years, and I decided that since I am closing in on 40 years old, now is the time. I enjoy working on machines, bicycles (recently motorized one of those), cars, etc., and I seem to have a decent mechanical aptitude (I do have a couple of mechanical engineering degrees too). I wanted to find a bike that was not overly complicated or overly powerful, so I decide on a 70s Honda twin.

I ended up acquiring a red 1975 CB360T. Here are a couple of pics in the original condition:

1975 CB360T (1).JPG
1975 CB360T (2).JPG

I didn't love the fairing, and i'm not convinced I like the back rack either. I took the fairing, and the sissy bar part of the rack off and I'm liking this much better:

1975 CB360T (3).JPG

The bike has low miles (~3500) and the engine serial number (CB360E-2019014) does show a punch below the dash, which is consistent with the marking location defined in the cam tensioner update. Would any of you knowledgeable guys agree?

I'll have to check for the rocker arm shaft update.

The bike has been down on the right side. The front fender, right foot peg, right muffler, and the sissy bar all show signs of a relatively low speed slide. The right handle bar is bent. My plan is to check that the forks are not twisted/bent, and then attempt to remove and straighten the handlebar.

My other immedialey obvious issue is the tank. The PO advised me that there was some rust, but that he loosened the rust with nuts/bolts, patched a couple of pin holes, and then coated the tank. I first noticed the rust along the lower edge of the tank on both sides:

1975 CB360T (5).JPG

Then I looked inside the tank and was more than a little dissapointed:

1975 CB360T (4).JPG

I'm not sure what type of coating was used (it appears red in color, but does not appear to be uniformly covering the inside of the tank). I'm also kind of stumped on how to proceed with the tank. I would love some advice...

Not sure if all of this belongs in the Member Intro area, so I will probably start a new thread in the Project Log area as I proceed. I am excited to be a part of this forum...
 

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There have been several discussions about tank liners but none recently. If you search the forum you'll be able to find some information but I'm sure folks will be along with some advice soon too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have been cleaning, inspecting, gathering supplies/tools, and trying to figure out how deep into this project I want to dive. The really ambitious part of me would really like to go ahead and strip the frame for powdercoat, split the cases and build back up, but with the amount of time a actually have to spend on the project, that would put me many months away from having an enjoyable rider. I'm also finding that things seem to be in decent condition.

image.jpg

The front turn signals were attached to the fairing with special short stems. I bought a set of "for parts" turn signals on ebay for $15 and used the standard length stems to re-mount the signals. The wires have been trimmed pretty short, so I will have to solder up a connection, or try to solder in new end terminations and run new wire.

image.jpg

I cleaned the air boxes/filters, checked valve clearances (had to increase both exhaust clearances by ~0.001"), and popped off a right rocker arm shaft cover and confirmed that it is attached to the shaft. This gives me the impression that the engine is updated with both recalls (since my serial number shows one punch below the dash).

The tank lining that was applied by the PO seems to have given my gas a red tint :confused:. Plugs look pretty seriously fouled.

Next task is to adjust cam chain tension and perform a compression test. How should my spec pressure change for a compression test when cold vs. when warm?
 

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Bike looks great, as long as it is road worthy I would just get it running well and enjoy it this summer. Fix things that would effect safety and such but leave it as is until winter or unit you get another bike. Fun thing about living in the south is you can pretty much ride year round.

That tank has me worried though with the bubbling down by the bottom. You can possibly remove the old liner and do a better job lining it but it will eventually break out and leak in those areas. Better idea maybe to get a better tank. I've fought with rusty tanks like that before and its no fun to have one just decide to start leaking on a ride miles from home.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the cam chain tensioner adjustment done (not much to it) and did a cold compression test.

Right: 76 psi
Left: 90 psi

I was pretty bummed until I realized that I forgot to do the test at wide open throttle. So I repeated the test...

Right: 150 psi
Left: 147 psi

Much better! Next was a check of points gap and timing (static).

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399257452.896030.jpg

Looks good.

I came across another head scratcher. My fork lock was in rough shape and has a different key code (eventhough the key will not go in at all).

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399257577.819660.jpg

The PO told me that he found the bike in an old house, so maybe there was no key and he bought a used ignition / seat lock pair??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got a few more tasks done during the evenings this week (in addition to general cleaning)...

Adjust throttle free play
Adjust rear brake
Adjust drive chain
Wire in front turn signals

image.jpg

I ended up buying another set of front turn signals with a headlight frame. I wanted the stock wiring, and the new frame (mine seems a bit bent). The new one is bent too... Oh well.

Next up is fork and brake fluid change. My front brake seems to be rubbing regardless of the caliper swingarm adjustment. I may have a fluid return issue at the master cylinder, or I may have to just replace the calipers (eventhough they are pretty much brand new).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've been doing some cleaning on the engine. I also decided to go ahead with the handlebar swap before working on the brakes or forks.

I bought a set of used stock bars on eBay for ~$25. Removing the old bars and controls wasn't too bad except for releasing the throttle cables. I ended up pulling the carbs and releasing the throttle cables on that end first.

Pulling the control wires through the new bars was was a challenge. I used silicone lubricant (liberally). I ran nylon twine through the bar then tied a clove hitch on the end of the bundle jacket. I then tied a half hitch at about the mid-point of the exposed length of single wires. I taped the knots down with electrical tape and then wrapped a half-lapped layer of electrical tape. My prepped right side looked like this:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400464625.788721.jpg

I then proceeded to wrestle the wire like an anaconda until it looked like this:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400464704.610251.jpg

Then the same drill on the other side:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400464745.327314.jpg

Now to see if I can re-make all of the connections and fit them back in the little cover...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re-made all of the connections and was stumped by this combination of B+B+B/W

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400787808.230862.jpg

After a thorough review of the connections I recalled that there was a wire that I noticed at disassembly that was covered by a short length of fibrous pressure sensitive black tape. (A factory type application - not electrical tape) You can see it in this photo on the right hand side:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400788029.814911.jpg

Anyway, the contact cleaner I used to dissipate the liberally applied silicone spray loosened the tape and it fell off when I re-routed the wires.

I applied a length of black shrink tubing to the wire to avoid future confusion. Is this wiring color cover-up well known?
 

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The Black wires are connected to Battery positive when the key switch is on....
The Black/white stripe wire is the return to power the coils when in addition to the key being on, the "kill" switch is set to "run" position....
Connecting a main harness Black/white directly to a main harness Black would bypass the "kill" switch: Connecting the switch unit's black/white wire in common with a black would make the switch meaningless....The question is, what are you going to plug into the other (female) end of that Black/white wire which goes to (and carries power to) the coils?

Feel free to phone for a more complete discription.....540-525-5199.....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled my carbs to have my first look at their condition.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400788949.848121.jpg

Diaphragms don't show any tears, splits, or holes:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400788915.918702.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400788933.175886.jpg

It looks like the right carb was replaced at some point. Here is a look at the floats and bowls:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400789621.830911.jpg

Both are dirty, someone thought blue sealant was a good idea (I disagree), and I appear to be missing some sort of retainer and and screw. I'm guessing I will have to make a retainer (or buy a whole carb for a $1 part). Can anyone tell me what the function of that retainer is? I need to do some research on these carbs...
 

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Retainer clip holds the "seat" half of "shut-off needle and seat" into the carb body
 

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Punch Marks????

I'm not trying to rain on your parade but you should take the rocker box top off the engine and check to see if the cam chain slipper update has been done. The reason I say this is the engine Vin# should have two punch marks showing if BOTH the slipper and the rocker arm updates had been done. Since your's only has one punch mark and you have verified the rocker arm shaft update has been done, that means the slipper update has not been done yet.............Just sayin, better safe than sorry...........
 

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Discussion Starter #14
66Sprint - the Bk/w wire coming from the right control run/kill switch is actually connected to the Bk/w wire running to the coils. The connector that was throwing me off is the 2 to 1 connector just "South" of the horn and "East" of the speedometer on this diagram:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400871439.038459.jpg

The bike side is a Bk with 2 females. The control side is a Bk with male and a Bk/w with male that was covered in black pressure sensitive material. ????? All other connectors match up perfectly.

Glenwood - I may do just that. I'm familiar with the two-punch marking for recall service, but based on visible sealing material at the head - cover joint I'm optimistic that I will find the updated parts. Only one way to know for sure.
 

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That connector gets BOTH black male connector ended wires from the switch unit.... as in the schematic.....
IF you have a Black/white wire that was re-color-coded as a black, it likely goes there....
I've never noticed the re-coding, but that doesn't mean it wasn't done that way by the factory.....I think your assumption is correct....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When I bought this bike the PO stated that everything worked except the horn. I tried everything I could think if to persuade the old horn to work, but I ended up deciding to replace it. I looked for a horn that I could use the stock plastic cover with. I found one on Amazon and it happened to be ruby red...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401109408.219234.jpg

I had to slightly enlarge the undercut in the stock cover to accommodate a ~0.050" increase in diameter. I used a ball engraving cutter on my dremel. I now have a functioning horn:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401109579.385109.jpg

Now I'm tearing down the left carb...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401109637.766138.jpg
 

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Nice thread with good pics. You will be up and running in no time, I hope!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Tear down of left carb complete:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401139245.498223.jpg

Finished cleaning (used chlorinated cancer juice) and now in re-assembly mode. Before I got too far I had to take the left float valve seat retainer and make a copy:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401139394.559789.jpg

I am installing carb rebuild kits from www.hondaCB360.com. Brenden is a fellow Texan and seems to be a really good guy. I had a website issue trying to place an order, but Brenden gave me a call and took my order by phone. He also gave me some quality advice and his number for support/questions. I plan to place a few more orders with him in the next few months.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, I removed the choke and throttle butterfly disks and shafts...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401220013.282175.jpg

I did notice that the threaded ends of the screws holding the disks to the shafts were staked. That makes sense to me since the consequence of one of those coming loose is pretty much catastrophic.

I have one screw that the staking rendered unable to thread back into the hole. My plan is to buy a new screw (maybe all new), cut to length, end drill ~0.0625", stake in a similar fashion as factory.

Do you guys like this type of staking?

Can I re-stake a used screw at 90 deg from first staking?

What about locktite?
 

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Nice bike. It is exactly the same as a red CB360T I bought new from the US Navy exchange in the Philippines. I even had the same back rest. I didn't have the fairing, but that is the correct period item. Too bad about the tank. The paint looks nice. Watch ebay for a solid one. Even if is has some internal rust, take it to a radiator shop and have it rotted out. You will be in for a new paint job, but your carbs will like it.
 
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