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Normally I should make this post in my project thread but since I've found only one post with actual pictures of a triple tree weld but lots of comments if welding is a reasonable aproach, I thought it might be a good idea to post this seperately in order to make it more easy to find. I also remember Jim (jamespal) being curious about how the weld looks on the inside. Unfortunately it wasn't shown on the other pictures, so here we are...

Anyway, when I got my CB450 project bike it had a broke triple tree which is not uncommon. For some reason the PO thought removing the central bushings at the clamps is not a big deal. So the clamp had to brake eventually or he overtorqued it. I thought that I'll find another one on eBay but had to learn what some of you may already know: These fork bridges are very rare birds. Instead of finding possible alternatives I've decided to get it welded and found someone who obviously has a good command of his craft. I think the mechanic was also fairly motivated cause he told me that he'd owned a black bomber back in the day and still loves the 450. So pleased with the result I couldn't resist to polish it today. I've also sanded the inside a little bit with a wooden rod and it fits now perfectly to the fork. OK, there are some small bubbles but I don't think it's an issue cause most of the load is on the lower tree anyway.

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I wonder if those are supposed to have a washer in the slot like the early CB 750's to keep them from being overtightened?
TOOLS
 

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Picking mine up today.. I dropped it off at Coastal Empire Moto on the 14th. Aaron texted me the best day said it was ready. Today is the first day I've had to get by the shop..
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Just picked it up.. I am MORE than happy with the work! Aaron is open for this kind of repairs if you are unable to get it done locally. Just shoot him a email.. ( coastalempiremoto.com)... keeping guys like this in business will help with the longevity of this hobby.
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IMG_6568.jpg
Installed and good to go... had to move the bike, reason for not getting them painted... it's a whole lot easier with handlebars installed.
 

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Yes, TOOLS....They take the washers IF it has the all straight slot like Rob's...(same washer AS a 750)..........
IF there are angular cuts at the outer edges of the otherwise straight cuts, then no......
 

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Thanks for the info Rob, I'm going to email Aaron and send him my SL350 clamp.
Gunnar, beautiful job polishing the part - that inspires me!
 

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I was at the shop yesterday.. didn't see Aaron.. I know they changed their phone#. If u have an issue hit me up..
FYI, this top clamp is on my wife's bike, it still isn't painted and I check it periodically .. nothing has surfaced. Aaron did a nice job!
 

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That is some nice looking welding. The D shaped washers are Honda P/N 53235300000. A few years ago they were very difficult to find. Honda must have run a batch of them. cmsnl.com has them in stock. They are pretty proud of them at €6 each. I would be careful about torquing the upper bridge. Most of the front shock to fork bridge clamping goes through the lower clamp.
 

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I have a broken one that came off my CB360. I'm planning on talking to a welder about repairing it for a spare. I replaced it with one from a CB360T I got off paybay. The only differences that I found is the 360T used M7 pinch bolts and had wider pinch gaps than the broken one. The broken one also uses M8 bolts. To switch to M8 pinch bolts on the 360T tree, you would have to open the clearance holes to accommodate the bigger bolts. I like the idea of using the smaller bolt which means less torque. If you put a spacer into the pinch gap, how loose should the spacer fit before tightening?
 

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I have a broken one that came off my CB360. I'm planning on talking to a welder about repairing it for a spare. I replaced it with one from a CB360T I got off paybay. The only differences that I found is the 360T used M7 pinch bolts and had wider pinch gaps than the broken one. The broken one also uses M8 bolts. To switch to M8 pinch bolts on the 360T tree, you would have to open the clearance holes to accommodate the bigger bolts. I like the idea of using the smaller bolt which means less torque. If you put a spacer into the pinch gap, how loose should the spacer fit before tightening?
On my 350 triples of the same design the gap is just under 3mm before tightening and the washer thickness is 2.25mm
 

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Really nice jobs on the welding of those triples guys.
I have one I'll get done for a spare as well.

The "D" washers are not just a normal wahser with a cut donw edge they are much thicker than a standard washer and that spacing is critical.
When installed right the torque pressure on the pinch bolt just closes against the washer.
If a standard whaser is substituted and the thickness is too thin it will just break again.
 
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