Is that a generic pic of a spring or the actual spring? My problem is mine is missing and all I have so far are the schematic drawings. I'm also wondering if I can make do with just the knob and simply screw it in ( I see threads on the shaft of the knob). Unless of course the whole purpose of the spring is to actually draw in the know (shown as item #6 above). If that is the case, I don't see why there would be threads on the shaft of the knob.
It's the spring - look closely and you'll see the CMS logo. Click the image and when it zooms in, you'll also be able to read the part number in the top left hand corner. CMS don't have it in stock, but they photograph everything they sell/have sold, so you can be pretty confident its exactly what you're looking for.
Can't help with any explanation for its purpose or how that set up works; you'll need a K0 owner for that. My guess is that it's there to put tension on the knob to stop it backing out under vibration. I suspect this was part of Honda's habit of over-engineering its early generation bikes from around that time (I've written a more detailed explanation of that business practice in another post somewhere). You can probably gauge how essential - or otherwise - it might be by looking at the design changes between the K0-1-2-3 models. But if my hunch is correct, you can almost certainly live without it unless you're going for a concourse rebuild.
I just thought I could find an image that might help.
Or you can find used originals on eBay every now and then from $80-$120 or so.
Item number 8 I have not been able to find. I’m assuming it’s similar to the side panel bolt spacer. But with flat sides. I’m going to attempt to make my own. It would be nice to have an original around for reference, so I’m still searching for one to purchase. Or if someone here has one that they can share pictures and measurements for, that would also be helpful.
Oh yeah, I’m not sure if you were asking where the bolt screwed into. On my bombers the bolt screws into the frame.
I’ll give it a shot soon and let you know. If I’m successful I’ll mail one out to you for free.
I’m a little confused about part #8’s image in the parts manual. One of my bombers came with a full seat latch. However part #8 on my bike looks like someone took a fat washer and forced it passed the threads of the bolt. The neck/collar of the part is tiny. I originally thought the part on my bike was a cheap repair that was done by the previous owner. And, that the “neck/collar” was just the metal of the washer being displaced by a drill bit in an attempt to make the bolt hole larger. However, as I looked online for an image of part #8 all the images matched that of the “fat washer” on my bike and not the image in the parts manual? I guess I do have the piece I was looking for after all.
I have to say that the function of these pieces leaves a lot to be desired. The whole assembly appears to be very badly designed. And that is not a complaint from me. I’m just surprised to find this assembly to be below Honda’s usual standards. But if that’s how the bike was designed then that’s how I plan to build it .
So I dug through my boxes of K0 parts to take another look at my warn seat latch assembly. Here is what I found.
I DO have part #8 after all! That’s great! I’ve been looking high and low for measurements for this piece. And after repairing the threads of the old bolt it was attached to I was able to take some measurements.
The part is similar to a washer with internal threadings (M8X1.25) and a small lip/collar that hugs the inside of the smaller end of the spring. It can easily be replaced by a 20mm metal washer and a small nut that fits inside the small end of the spring.
View of the threads
The outside diameter
The inside “lip/collar” diameter
The width (without the collar)
The width (including the collar)
Ive been searching for this information everywhere. Now that I have it I’m excited to share it. I hope this information helps.
So, I was leaving Costco today and looked across the parking lot at Lowes and thought, "I wonder if Lowes carries any M8X1.25 fasteners that would be a good equivalent replacement for part#8?" I have a toy lathe, soy I took a look at the 20mm steel rod first. At $17 for 3ft I found that too expensive for such a small part. I say that now, after paying close to $20 for a small spring!! .
What I ended up going with was 2 M8x1.25 flanged nuts. The flange measures out to 17mm in diameter. 3mm smaller than what I'm looking for, but I believe this will still work.
These came out to $2 for two.
Here's the difference in diameter between the two
The Hex nut is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the small end of the spring.
I threw it on the toy lathe to get the nut to fit into the spring
If you look closely the Honda seat latch knob bolt is different than the reproduction seat latch bolt. There is a flat spot just after the threads that allows part #8 to "float" on the bolt without being worked through the threads. That way Part#8 keeps the bolt from falling out when not screwed into the frame while at the same time not un-threading itself from part#8 when being unscrewed from the frame. However, on the honda part the flat space is about 5mm wide. While on the reproduction part the flat space is only 2.5mm (at least on the one I purchased). This means the widest part#8 can be for my piece is 2.5mm MAX.
I plan on removing some of the threads at the back of my reproduction latch knob bolt to correct this. However, since I'm planning on sending this part out to Amir I'm assuming his bolt has the same flaw as mine. And in the case that he does not have the tools needed to modify the part as needed I decided to bring down the piece I made to 2.5mm wide in order to allow it to "float" on the reproduction piece as well.
This brought the part to half the thickness of the original honda part#8 thickness. I'm not too happy about that, but it is what it is.
Here is my cheap reproduction installed without it being trimmed down to be allowed to "float" on the flat part of the bolt
And here it is with the trimmed down version installed that allows the bolt to "float"
I'm only assuming that the longer version will not work as I have not actually tried it out on a bike. My seat is in pieces right now so I don't have a way of testing it at the moment. However, in the case that there is a chance that the longer version will work i will mail Amir both if he wants them.
Total cost to make these = $2. Not bad, I'm happy with the final product considering the investment. :grin:
Amir, I'll message you directly if you would like for me to mail these out to you. I hope everyone is have a great holiday season.
I'm so new to this forum that I didn't know you had responded to this thread until you sent me the private message. What an impressive effort on your part and it is GREATLY appreciated. And there is no way I'll allow you to mail those to me without re-imbursement. Let me buy you a Amazon gift card or something please. I'll private message you shortly.
If you are ever in the Colorado Springs area, please look me up.
Hello! hoping someone could help me out here,
i'm hunting for the headlight socket for the main bulb, mine has burnt out (the socket not the bulb) and i can't
find a replacement online for the life of me, any help would be greatly appreciated
My CB450K3 has some bent front forks tubes from some accident by a PO.
I'm just looking for usable condition STRAIGHT fork tubes from a CB450 K3 or K4.
Also open to suggestions on where to buy or if any are spotted.
Number 5 in the diagram below.
Hi, I'm going to be looking for a lot of parts for this bike. Currently looking to replace the gas tank. It only has a small leak, but it had already been patched several times when I got it. It would be great to find a close match, but I'd take anything compatible as long as it looks good with...
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