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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As per above. I've just fitted a cheap Ebay voltmeter to my cb200. I've wired it into one of the feeds into the horn and a direct wire to the battery. The reading is around 12.4 on the turn of the ignition key and similar on tick over. We're enjoying a little spike of spring like weather here in England so I had the chance to take it for a spin today. Through the gears and the revs I'm getting as high as 16.9 and as low as 13.4 and pretty much everything in between. Does this mean my regulator is faulty? I might add that the bike is running really well with no sign of trouble.
 

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Somebody with more experience will chime in, but I think 14ish volts is the most you want. Ideally you want to take the reading at the battery. A new regulator/rectifier is never a bad idea on these old bikes.
 

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Yeah, 16+v sounds high - as suggested above, I'd replace the separate rectifier and regulator with a combination component from someone like Sparck Moto. HT member Sonreir (Matt) is part of Sparck Moto and is very helpful to members who need to sort out electrical issues and wiring repairs, and they make good products (I am not involved with them in any way, I've just seen Matt's extensive help for members here). If you ride the bike at that voltage often, you'll likely be adding water to your battery often if it isn't a sealed version as the high voltage will probably be boiling the battery. Sounds like your alternator stator and rotor are doing well...
 

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If I remember correctly, the CB200 didn't have a regulator. On the smaller twins and singles, Honda would often forego the regulator and rely on an oversized battery to help regulate the load. I highly recommend the addition of a modern regulator/rectifier to all of the Honda twins. In this case, because there is no old regulator to remove, there will be a little extra wiring to do to install a modern unit. With our R/R, there will be a black wire looking for a home. Splicing it into an spare black wire in the loom will do the trick. Common splice points include the rear brake switch, solenoid, or flasher relay.
 

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Sorry Matt....The CB200T does have a regulator.....IIRC, It uses the same unit as the 175, 350, 360, 450 and 500T......
 

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I wired my voltmeter between a black (positive voltage when ignition is on) and green (earth). Works great and all of my bikes will be getting one. The first photo is the bike with the ignition switched on and a healthy 12.7 volts (battery) and the second photo is the engine running at 3400 RPM with the headlight switched off. It is showing a healthy 13.7 volts. The bike does not have the alternator mod as I don't believe it is necessary. When the headlight is switched on it shows strongly at 14.2 volts. It should support slightly more load so I plan to go to a higher wattage headlight the season. The voltmeter is a Chinese marine grade unit. The digital tachometer was an after thought when I discovered how in accurate the stock tachometer was.

Idle Volts.jpg 3340 RPM Volts.jpg
 

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I don't know about the CB200, but over here (UK) the 175's didn't have a regulator fitted, just the rectifier. I'm convince that that is why my 175 kept blowing tail light bulbs back in the day.

I'm running cheap Ebay combined reg/recs on both my 175's, with good results. I have a CB200 stator in one of the engines. Voltage should certainly not rise beyond a tad over 14v , at normal engine revs.

Example cheap reg rec. If it stops working ( hasn't yet ), at 4 quid a shot who cares ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Wire-Full-Wave-Motorcycle-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-DC-Bike-Quad-Scooter-/113231384386?hash=item1a5d1dcf42

Wiring is simple. Combine the yellow and white wires directly at the ( New ) stator plug, pink wire to other input terminal on the reg rec. Green and red wires direct to battery, bypassing any tired connections in the standard loom. Add fuse box to taste. Green wire with red trace is the neutral switch wire, plugs into existing stator plug on loom.

20171114_220524.jpg
 

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Good advice Richard, I fitted one of those more than two years ago. No probs at all, and with the cheap digital voltmeter from the same country I can keep an eye on its performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Once my unit arrives I'll pull the tank and anything else required (I imagine panels and air filters) to see what I've got. I've a stock of bullet connectors so as long as I know what to do I can fit it I'm sure. I'll be back on this thread. If I know me it will be with pictures and questions :)
 

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As these Chinese reg recs are so cheap, I thought I'd buy a couple more to have on hand as spares.

So I ordered 4 wire ones as before, but the units that have just arrived have 5 wires.

Pink and yellow from the generator (stator), red and green to battery +ve and -ve.

Leaving an unexplained black wire, which I assume is the Vsense wire. What do I connect this to a 175 charging system ? Just tie it in to the red (+ve) wire ?

EDIT Just found this, explains it all, I think ..

https://lambertsbikes.com/motorcycle-parts/parts-data-library/motorcycle-regulator-rectifier/2-phase-5-wire-regulator-rectifier-wiring-diagram/
 

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It would be better to connect it to the black wire, in the main harness. That way you will always have the right voltage feeding the ignition and lights.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ebay tells me my unit is on the way, latest delivery is 14th March. I'll be back to progress my installation. In the meantime, I've been out riding. Some unbelievable weather being enjoyed in parts of the UK just now, temps have been nudging 17c, that's over 63 in dollars. My voltmeter has nudged above above 17 too, surely something needs to be done.
 

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It would be better to connect it to the black wire, in the main harness. That way you will always have the right voltage feeding the ignition and lights.
Thanks Mike, that was the conclusion I reached after looking at that wiring diagram I referred to in my edited post. Black wire to switched black wire in bikes loom.

Russ, agree about the weather, it's amazing at the moment, racking up miles on both 175s over the last few days. Will be getting the Hornet out of hibernation soon at this rate. Last year in early March, we had a week away in Devon, just avoided getting snowed in !
 

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One thing to check for is a good solid path between the out terminal of the rectifier and the battery post. It's the nature of a/c alternators for the output voltage to rise if it doesn't have something in the circuit to absorb the watts. One way to check is to connect your voltmeter to the battery post and compare the readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
It’s arrived. I’m not sure how my week is going to pan out but I’ll be able to try to fit my new unit within a few days. This is what I’m starting with. The new unit and connectors pictured below. The instructions on the eBay listing say Red =Battery+ .Green =Battery- .Pink=AC from stator. Yellow=AC from stator. Black=Voltage sensing to switched
DC2A9754-E290-4C25-95EF-52978B75DFF5.jpg
From OEM photos I’m expecting my existing regulator to be connected in someway to the loom via 3 bullet connections in Yellow, Dark Green and Black.
072418FF-9501-447D-9527-6D83567D319F.jpg
The rectifier looks like it will be connected by a block terminal with Red, Yellow, Pink and Green.
34C92CC4-06C0-4ED6-9433-82A6757A64AA.jpg
I have the connectors supplied, spare wires in the right colours and a good stock of bullet connectors. I’m happy to make good connections of anything to anything else but really not sure how to proceed. If anyone more confident with electrics can give me a few pointers in the right direction I would be most grateful :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It appears you bought a reg/rec, the old regulator is not used.
Yes the new unit is going to do both jobs hopefully. I’m just not sure if the old regulator needs to be binned leaving the connections in the loom redundant or if they need to be used to interact in someway with the new unit. Regards, Russ.
 

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It will be interesting to see if your UK spec Cb200 actually has a voltage regulator. If it has, you should be able to locate it here, photo courtesy of CB2NR thread:

1971CB175K5Restoration006-13.jpg

If so, it can be unplugged and removed. Blank off the yellow wire. Run the green wire to a good earth point. The black wire could probably be used to connect the Vsense wire from your new reg rec.

If your new reg rec has similar dimensions to mine, it will fit onto the two holes where the old voltage regulator sat, may need to ease the holes in the heatsink using a rat tail file.

20180726_153732.jpg

The old rectifier lives up inside the frame, under the fuel tank. Again, I'd remove and discard this. The wiring colours match your new unit ( with its extra black Vsense wire ). I would make up an adaptor lead with plug and socket at either end to match old rectifier to new unit, ie 4 pin female (old end) to 5 pin male (new end), with the extra black wire going to a switched live (black) wire in the harness. This setup retains the day and night outputs from the alternator, controlled by the lighting switch.



Alternatively, you could do what I've done. Make up a new loom as shown below, wired directly to the battery, yellow and white wires from alternator combined, so full charge available all the time. Flying lead for neutral switch. Fuses added as appropriate.


20160511_090213.jpg
 

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