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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the link Jim. I’ve emailed them and they are searching their resources to see if they can find a replacement. I’ll update with any results when they get back to me.
 

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Thanks for posting, I had missed this one. Seems like a newer version that is in really good shape and has a really big price. The flip out cards are a great feature. Since I could buy an entire bike for the cost of this one I doubt I’ll be bidding on it
 
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12ozPBR your attachments is a newer type tester.

A friend of mine has the same tester. This tester will not start. The vibrator is defect. 6 A en 6 V like the picture in this forum. Only for me I need a vibrator, four legs and not six.
If anybody know where to get it? Please let me know.
The manual is in the attachment. Copy from the original.
I hope my english is ok.

Greetings Henk from Holland
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Henk, your English is just fine and thank you for scanning and providing the download of the tester manual, that is GREAT! ?(y)
I have not had any luck finding the 6 pin vibrator needed to get my tester working. I have not been as diligent as I could be in looking however. I exhausted all the leads I had gotten but need to double down and keep searching.
Since starting this discussion I did have the opportunity to purchase a beat up old tester for parts.
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I had hoped that at least I could get the vibrator from this parts unit but it turns out it is the wrong one for mine. From what you mention about yours I believe I have the one you need, but I do not know if it is functional.
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As you can see it is the 4 pin version with 2 of the pins being larger than the other 2. I will see if I can connect a battery to this tester and determine if this vibrator is any good. If anyone has any idea how to test it otherwise I am open to ideas.
 

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Hi 12ozPBR.
Thats the one.

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My friend has all the parts complete for all the tests.

I used the electrical manuall in this forum to understand the working off this device.
In both testers the fibrator creates a AC block voltage from the batterie.
I "THINK'' this is how it works.:geek:

The 6 pins vibrator:
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Pin 6 is power. Pin 5 is out 1(+) en Pin 2 is out 2(+)
Pin 1 is the start. Always 6 VDC.
Pin 3 seems me the ground.

When the battery is 12 volt the relais on and make the choice for the T12
Via resistend R1 is the 12 V reduced to 6 V for starting.
When the battery is 6 V the starting power is going via relais contact 7 and 2 to pin 1.
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Via pin 5 the current is through the transformator T12 to the ground in the middle.
Then via pin 2 through T12 see bottem.
Pin 5 and Pin 2 swithes in a frequentie of 60Hz.
Now the T12 makes at the secondary side 330 Vac and 6 Vac, needed for the first four testings.
See the switch here under.
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The last choice is the bonine test.
I think that the frequentie is lower on that point.
The battery gives the power to the bobine.
Thats the reasen to watch out for the right voltage for the bobine.

The four pins vibrator works in the same way.
The transformator is different.
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As I write I see that my drawing is not correct.
Pin 1 gets the power when the switch is one the first four choiches and timing light and bobine.
Pin 2 is out.
Pin 3 is power only 6 Volt.
Pin 4 is start or ground.
Pin 3 and pin 4 is now not certain for me.
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In my case i connected a transformator 220v to 12v as a substitude for the vibrator.
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This works but a capasitor on the transformator of the tester is getting hot.
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I did not tested the last four choices. but the other choices are working.
But not acurate.
Maybe the cause is that the capasitors are dry and not good anymore.
The lamp for working unther the Honda logo is also defect.

I hope i was not boring and i hope if anyone has an electric manual for the ST-4B

Greetings Henk
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Wow Henk! Your understanding and ability to read and decipher the electrical diagram for the tester is FAR beyond my capabilities. I can follow your logic to a certain degree but I still get lost. I feel as though I would need an old school electronics class to really begin to understand. The study of electrical principles is my admitted weak spot, it is one of the mysterious sciences of the universe to me. Invisible forces that make things work. I much prefer mechanical problems that I can see with the eyes and feel with the hands.
With that said, I’ll try and do some study if I can and understand. When I get an opportunity I will still see if I can power up the 4 pin vibrator and see if it is in workable condition. With your knowledge perhaps you can develop a workaround to the vibrator with a modern electrical component that will eliminate the need to source an obsolete part. Otherwise it maybe as Ancientdad said earlier in this discussion, that the tester is just a relic from the past to be admired sitting on shelf.
Thanks for your input Henk, your comments definitely are not boring to me. I welcome more of your (or anyone’s) knowledge on the functional “mysteries” of these electronics.
 
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Hi 12ozPBR,

Not all explaning of me is correct in my previous story. I have succeed to repair the vibrator . Its a mechanical problem so you have the possibility to repair the vibrator.

First i opened the vibrator.

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Here a picture for replacement.

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The small pins 2 and 3 are out 1 and out 2.
Pin 4 is power coming from the rotary switch.
Pin 1 is not connected.

When the power is on the coil gets magnetic and out 1 gives the power.

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When switch 1 is on, the coil gets no power and the switches moving to the other side, and out 2 gives the power.
This repeats contandly and the AC power for the transfomator is born.

What was wrong.
The contacts of the switches were bad, and the resuld, there was no currend through the transformator.

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The gap between the two blades must be 0,5 mm.
I cleened the contacts with sandpaper (800).
When the gap of the swiches is to small the currend from the battery is mutch to high.
The fuses break.
With your finger you can make the gap greater.
The current from the battery should be 2 ampere DC.

The tester did start strait away.

A vibrator with 6 pin looks me equal.
Here can the contacts also maybe dirty.
Open the vibrator.

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Here you see in the diagram that there are two switches.
Pin 1 and 3 will power up the coil. Pin 1 is the positief side and 3 the negative side.
No more then 6 Volts DC. When the switch is moving means that the coil is ok.
The vibrator only vibrate when all pins are connected.

It takes me a lot of hours but i learned a lot.
Hope this can be helpfull.

Greetings Henk
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Again Henk, WOW!!! o_O
You have once again outdone yourself. Excellent discovery! Lest I forget, sometimes one just has to dig in and take things apart to to make sense of them. Thank you for reminding me of this in this instance.
I will have to take time and read through your post many times, look at the electrical diagram, and digest all the information and see if I can replicate the success you have had.
Either way, many thanks for pushing the knowledge forward on the components of this device and giving me much “food for thought”. Outstanding!!!?(y)
 

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Hi 12ozPBR,

Thanks for your enthusiastm.
This picture was not uploading.
This is the 6 pins vibrator.
Pin 1 and 3 the coil
Pin 6 is power.
Pin 2 and 5 are out 1 and out 2.
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Greetings Henk
 
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