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VIN Plate - Remove - Replace for Painting or Powder Coating
I originally started this as a response to another members question but have decided it's not correct to hijack a members thread.
Also I had a hard time deciding whether to place this in the Misc or the Frame section. Obviously I went with Frame as it seemed logical but it's OK to move it if it should be elsewhere.
There have been questions about what to do with the VIN PLATE when you do a Re-paint or Powder Coat a Frame.
The options are:
1 - Nothing
2 - Tape it some how
3 - Remove it.
Option #1 Not Good it is either destroyed byPpainting or Powder Coating over it
Option #2 TAPE - maybe it works but leaves the area under it questionable
Option #3 How do we Replace it when e're done?
The original VIN Plates are attached with special rivets that have a very coarse thread. They are Pressed - or Hammered into place and the coarse thread locks them in place.I worked for an equipment Mfg and this is how we attached all the S/N Plate to machines.
Here is a source for those rivets.
http://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screw ... crews.html
Using these will allow you to remove the VIN Plate which MUST be done carefully and slowly to prevent damage - then re-attach it in a permanant and factory manner.
To remove the OLD VIN PLATE - carefully center punch the old rivot. And use a PIN VISE hand drill to remove the old head. PIN VISE Hand drills are cheap and can be picked up at a hobby shop. You can get much smaller diameter drill bits and move up thru the size until you just remove the head.
NOTE: Using the standard smallest size drill that comes with most kits - 1/16" and a cordless hand drill you will most likey miss the center and mess up your vin plate. Get a PIN Vise and work your way up in size from small to where the head just spins off free.
Once the head has been removed use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the adhesive on theback side of the plate so it can be removed. Silp a putty knife or similar thin balde under as you go until it comes off.
PIC's:
- - - -
I apoligize in advance for the 1st pic' being so out of focus I didn't realize how bad it was or I would have taken a second one.
The 1st shows the VIN Plate still attached but with the Rivot Head drilled off and sitting in the top left corner of the Pic Next to the VIN PLATE.
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This shot shows the ORIGINAL Hammer Screws (after removal) that are used to attach the VIN Plate
I would suggest you CLICK on this file and open it to a full size pic so you can see the threads on the Screws. This is the pieice that was left after I drilled off the head I just punched it thru the head tube.
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My Digital Caliper mic's this out as 1.62mm or .064"
http://www.rivetsonline.com/18-8-stainl ... x-1-4.html
This link will take you to the #0 x 1/4" size which is .75" Diameter.
It's "VERY" Slightly .009 larger than the original and will require you to drill the original hole out to .067".
That is so small a difference - it's almost who cares.
This is a pic of the PIN Vise I used to drill off the Rivot Head. They can be picked up at Home Depot or a Hobby Shop. The one I have came with an assortment of Very Small Drill Bits in the Barrel.
![Office supplies Aerospace manufacturer Event Aviation Wood]()
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Since I'm going to be doing this for my bike and they only sell them in a box of 100 for $14.00 I'll have lots of spares.
- - - - - - -
If you read the original Posting you'll notice a couple of edits.
1 - I went with the 1/4" Lenght over the 3/16"
There's lots of room inside the Head Tube before anything is going to touch the Steering Tube. The extra length will allow me to get a grip on the Drive Screw with a pair of Tweezers to hold it when I go to Hammer it into place.
2 - I Discovered when ordering them they were available in both Steel and Stainless Steel for $2.00 extra I went with the Stainless Steel.
If anyone wants them once I get them (I plan to order them today) send me a PM and I'll get you details.
Basically - If you send me a SASE (Self Addressed STAMPED Envelope & a Dollar) I'll send you (5) untill I run out. That recoups some of my cost & efforts.
If you do the math:
Drive Screws $14.00 / per 100
Shipping $9.00
Total = $23.00
If I sold every one I'd make $2.00 but as I intend to keep (10) - I'll come up a little short but I hope this helps other complete their project.
ORDERED and RECEIVED:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
They are in I received my package in yesterdays mail - WOW Quick Response from the Vendor.
Here's what they look like:
![Art Font Parallel Wood Rectangle]()
THE CATCH:
I'm going to add one catch to the purchase.
If you buy them & use them & like them make a $5.00 Donation to the site.
I expect my frame will be finished by the powder coater next week but I won't be able to pick it up until the following week due to commitments. I'll post Pic's of the Re-Attach after I pick it up.
Also I had a hard time deciding whether to place this in the Misc or the Frame section. Obviously I went with Frame as it seemed logical but it's OK to move it if it should be elsewhere.
There have been questions about what to do with the VIN PLATE when you do a Re-paint or Powder Coat a Frame.
The options are:
1 - Nothing
2 - Tape it some how
3 - Remove it.
Option #1 Not Good it is either destroyed byPpainting or Powder Coating over it
Option #2 TAPE - maybe it works but leaves the area under it questionable
Option #3 How do we Replace it when e're done?
The original VIN Plates are attached with special rivets that have a very coarse thread. They are Pressed - or Hammered into place and the coarse thread locks them in place.I worked for an equipment Mfg and this is how we attached all the S/N Plate to machines.
Here is a source for those rivets.
http://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screw ... crews.html
Using these will allow you to remove the VIN Plate which MUST be done carefully and slowly to prevent damage - then re-attach it in a permanant and factory manner.
To remove the OLD VIN PLATE - carefully center punch the old rivot. And use a PIN VISE hand drill to remove the old head. PIN VISE Hand drills are cheap and can be picked up at a hobby shop. You can get much smaller diameter drill bits and move up thru the size until you just remove the head.
NOTE: Using the standard smallest size drill that comes with most kits - 1/16" and a cordless hand drill you will most likey miss the center and mess up your vin plate. Get a PIN Vise and work your way up in size from small to where the head just spins off free.
Once the head has been removed use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the adhesive on theback side of the plate so it can be removed. Silp a putty knife or similar thin balde under as you go until it comes off.
PIC's:
- - - -
I apoligize in advance for the 1st pic' being so out of focus I didn't realize how bad it was or I would have taken a second one.
The 1st shows the VIN Plate still attached but with the Rivot Head drilled off and sitting in the top left corner of the Pic Next to the VIN PLATE.
This shot shows the ORIGINAL Hammer Screws (after removal) that are used to attach the VIN Plate
I would suggest you CLICK on this file and open it to a full size pic so you can see the threads on the Screws. This is the pieice that was left after I drilled off the head I just punched it thru the head tube.
My Digital Caliper mic's this out as 1.62mm or .064"
http://www.rivetsonline.com/18-8-stainl ... x-1-4.html
This link will take you to the #0 x 1/4" size which is .75" Diameter.
It's "VERY" Slightly .009 larger than the original and will require you to drill the original hole out to .067".
That is so small a difference - it's almost who cares.
This is a pic of the PIN Vise I used to drill off the Rivot Head. They can be picked up at Home Depot or a Hobby Shop. The one I have came with an assortment of Very Small Drill Bits in the Barrel.
Since I'm going to be doing this for my bike and they only sell them in a box of 100 for $14.00 I'll have lots of spares.
- - - - - - -
If you read the original Posting you'll notice a couple of edits.
1 - I went with the 1/4" Lenght over the 3/16"
There's lots of room inside the Head Tube before anything is going to touch the Steering Tube. The extra length will allow me to get a grip on the Drive Screw with a pair of Tweezers to hold it when I go to Hammer it into place.
2 - I Discovered when ordering them they were available in both Steel and Stainless Steel for $2.00 extra I went with the Stainless Steel.
If anyone wants them once I get them (I plan to order them today) send me a PM and I'll get you details.
Basically - If you send me a SASE (Self Addressed STAMPED Envelope & a Dollar) I'll send you (5) untill I run out. That recoups some of my cost & efforts.
If you do the math:
Drive Screws $14.00 / per 100
Shipping $9.00
Total = $23.00
If I sold every one I'd make $2.00 but as I intend to keep (10) - I'll come up a little short but I hope this helps other complete their project.
ORDERED and RECEIVED:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
They are in I received my package in yesterdays mail - WOW Quick Response from the Vendor.
Here's what they look like:
THE CATCH:
I'm going to add one catch to the purchase.
If you buy them & use them & like them make a $5.00 Donation to the site.
I expect my frame will be finished by the powder coater next week but I won't be able to pick it up until the following week due to commitments. I'll post Pic's of the Re-Attach after I pick it up.
