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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has obviously not been adjusted anytime recently and the flat head set screw is seized to the locking nut. I can turn it via a wrench on the lock nut but that is not the proper way and it seems to be having little to no affect on the adjustment. Is there any easy way to fix this or do I have to remove the top end? I don't mind if I have to as I can not do the adjustment right now.

eb
 

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Sensei
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27,164 Posts
Need specifics...I assume a 450 but which adjuster?......
 

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Sensei
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27,164 Posts
I send out a LOT of parts, so I have trouble remembering who has what specific model and year bike....LOL....
I ask, because sometimes the adjusters can be "fixed" without removing the engine....... It is of course, much easier with the engine out of the frame......AND, you'll get to inspect all the pertinent parts, not just the immediately troublesome one......
Before you make a decision, What are your compression numbers?.... IF nominal, now would be the time to redo the "top-end"..... You'll have it somewhat apart anyway....

Of course, you could just spin the locknut and adjuster until the correct adjustment is achieved.... (Not the correct way, but whatever works, works...) Note that there are TWO points in the rotation where the correct adjustment is achieved...ONLY one is correct as shown by the secondary index mark (at 90 degrees from the screwdriver slot)
 

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This gets a little complicated but may get your adjuster locknut free without damaging anything: Tip the bike away from the side with the stuck nut and support it on a stand. Wrap tape around the nut tightly (wide electrical tape might do it)so it forms a cylinder above the adjuster. fill that with a rust dissolving chemical, like phosphoric acid, acetic acid, Milk stone dissolver, etc. - and keep the adjuster wet with it. I've done this for a day with acetic and gotten rusted steel bolts threaded into aluminum out after I'd already torqued the head off one - but I don't know how bad your situation is. After treating it, clean it off and try heating the nut. It's best to have a screwdriver that fits the adjuster's slot as precisely as possible, even if you have to convert one you have into a "special service tool." This is important, because the adjusters aren't the strongest metal around and the slotted head is easy to damage. A bit of heat on the nut would help, but careful with that - the aluminum melts at a lower temperature than where you'll see the steel show any colour. If it still won't move, try the process again from the start. And it doesn't hurt to keep those adjusters in mind and put a bit of lube on them when you oil the chain. Also a drop where the shaft for the rear brake cam goes into the brakes and whatever other little moving parts you can find, like control levers.
 

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Sensei
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Great idea/proceedure, Kerry!....
How about just clamping a length of hose on it (bent/curved upward)...fill the hose.... MSR should work...... Steve
 
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