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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed all tappet overs, point cover, alternator cover. I turned the engine until the intake valve in my left cylinder fully opened the started to close. I went a bit past that point till I reached the LT on my alternator.
my manual states that the rocker arms have to be loose in both the intake valve and exhaust valves but they dont seem to be. What is it that I have to measure exactly?
I know the measurments are .002 for intake and .004 for exhaust. but I not sure of the right place to measure that.
So far I have adjusted my cam tensioner, set my points, my timming and she started to run.
I noticed that the left exhaust is cooler that the right.
Could this be due to my valves not being adjusted or is it simply running to rich?
 

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Could be any number of reasons........
You measure between the valve stem and rocker tip......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I put my left cylinder at top dead center my intake valve was loose so i adjusted it. My exhaust valve was not loose so I couldnt adjust it. I unlocked the rocker arm nut and turned the screw to loosen it but the rocker would not separate from the valve. after passing the lt mark I noticed that the rocker arm and valve do separate just cant do it when the bike is allinged to LT.
Any tips?
Am I doing this wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its a done deal I got her done yesterday. The exhaust valve on my left cylinder was a little to tight but I took care of that. I turned her on let her warm up and I notice that the heat from the mufflers had evened out a bit. This was good.
I did adjust my iddle mixture screw on the left as well just in case. She seemed to be running fine so I decided to take her out for a spin around the block. I rode around the block two times she started off fine but it all went down hill quick.
Right away I noticed the sluggish felling in first gear I had to roll the gas real slow for her to pick up. In second gear it was the same deal third I dont think she picked up at all so I shift back to second. I tried the block again and she died at a stop sign couldnt get her back on.
Im assuming I should clean my carbs AGAIN maybe change my air filters I bet they're still the originals.
Does anyone know any filters that would not require a jet swap?
Or any other ideas on what could have caused these reactions.
 

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mtnlvr said:
Have you verified that your cams are in time with your crank?
What's the compression PSI?......

Did you adjust valves stone cold?.....

Are carbs clean, properly adjusted, and synchronised?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not sure about the psi.
The guy I bought her from told me she was rebuilt two years ago and shortly after he had an accident and didnt ride again. Everything else he said about the bike has came out to be true so I didnt bother with the compression test.
I did my valves when she was dead cold. My carbs are clean but I might need to clean them again since I didn't blow compressed air trough them. This is the first bike I've worked on so Im still getting used to the whole adjusting and synching of the carbs. I know they're synched but not so sure about the fuel air ratio. Im going to take off the carbs and air filters off tomorrow so I can clean them again see if that helps at all.
As for the compresion test I should probably pick up a test kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so I finaly went out and bought a compersion tester. I warmed up the bike 10 mins. and held the gas wide open.
PSI on my right cylinder was 160 left cylinder was 155. She rode better after I cleaned the fuel petcock and adjusted the carbs a little more but now I get above 4000 rpm she losess power again. what else can this be?
I plan to let her sit today re-do my valves, re-do my timing just to make sure. Anything else I should be looking at?
 

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You asked above what filters would not require a jet swap, so I'm just wondering what filters you're using now? Depending on what you using this would require a larger main jet and this could be why your losing power at 4K. Also, did you make sure the timing advancer is working correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Im using the stock filter. I think it just my filters if I open the choke a bit she picks up way better in any gear.
Im not really interested in getting the stock filters again. What what would be good with a 105 main jet on these bikes? Or any combos that would work (like buy these filters with a xxx size main jet). I guess im just looking to do it once and right.
thanks
 

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Cl350k3guy said:
if I open the choke a bit she picks up way better in any gear.

I guess im just looking to do it once and right.
thanks
I think you mean close the choke. This makes it run richer which means you're currently running too lean. IF the carbs are clean and properly adjusted you need bigger jets (don't even start on this until you select and install the air filters you're going to use).

I'm not aware of anyone with a chart that considers air filters, exhaust, engine wear, elevation, and all the other variables that can affect mixture.

Rumor has it that the balance on your wifes credit card can make it run lean! :eek:

You pretty much have to pick a starting point and change one thing at a time until you get it the way you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lol :lol: No I meant open the choke when I close the choke all the way she iddles fine just doesnt pick up after 4000 rpm if i OPEN the choke a tiny bit shell pick up. I guess I better get those air filters then.
 

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Aha! :idea:

In that case it sounds like it's running lean at low speed but getting closer to correct mixture as the rpms climb and the fuel is coming more from the high speed jets. After you get your air filters on I'd suggest a very meticulous carb cleaning (this often takes more than once) then see what ya got.

I'm working a similar issue now with my Gl500 that's running lean. We can compare notes down the road.
 

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Buy some 110 jets and 115s.

I was running a 110 and moved up to 120. Was too much so I went with a 115 and it was perfect. Bike is a monster now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That sounds like the way to go. My clymers manual said these bike came with 115's I was wondering why mine had 105's. Ill buy the 110 and 115 and some after market filters see what works best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sweet I ordered them. I guess theyll be here shortly. Meanwhile Im thinking of tearing out my cluth and giving it a look.
I was having trouble 3 days ago with my shifting. It was perfect when my bike was running on the center stand but would be almost imposible to shift into neutral and really hard to shift into second once the wheel was on the ground.
I changed my oil and checked my shifting lever yesterday and it went away. Today I decided to do a full tune up again. Cam chain tensioner, Valve settings, Compresion test, Battery check, Breaker point gaps, Ignition timing, Adjusted and lubed my chain and so on. She rode better than she has since I brought her back to life, Including picking up a bit over 5000 rpm with choke fully closed. That was an improvement in itself. Anyway I rode her about ten miles and then that shifting problem came back. Once the bike is off I can easily shift back into neutral while the wheel is on the ground. My neutral light only lights up maybe 25 percent of the time I do find neutral.
Its not my shift lever touching my crankcase.
Its not bent in any way either.
What else could this be?
Im using Rotela T 15w motor oil.
Shifts smothly when engine is off on the center stand and the floor.
Problem happens when engine is on and rear wheel is on the ground.
Any Ideas?
 
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