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Discussion Starter #1
One day it worked. Next day it did not.
That is the story on my electric start.
No clicks. No previous indications of something being amiss.
Troubleshooting at this point has been:
Verified all wires connected in headlight bucket;
verified no wires disconnected at harness above front sprocket/underneath battery.
So looking for some advise as to where to go to next.
 

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Bike in NEUTRAL...Unplug Yellow/red stripe wire at/from solenoid (under the seat on battery box rear)..... Key on, touch the wire (solenoid end) to ground (may need to insert a screw so bare contact exposed, I can't remember if its a male or female end)...IF starter cranks, solenoid is good and problem lies elsewhere (wiring to, or start button, possibly bad handlebar ground)...... or you get a click but starter does not turn, either starter is bad, wire to starter is bad, or internal solenoid switch contacts are bad.......IF nothing happens, bad solenoid....

Larry....You CAN test with a multimeter....Phone for hints....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the tips, Steve. Will give them a shot while I wait for carbs to clean and replacement front forks to arrive (ka-ching).
 

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Bike in NEUTRAL...Unplug Yellow/red stripe wire at/from solenoid (under the seat on battery box rear)..... Key on, touch the wire (solenoid end) to ground (may need to insert a screw so bare contact exposed, I can't remember if its a male or female end)...IF starter cranks, solenoid is good and problem lies elsewhere (wiring to, or start button, possibly bad handlebar ground)...... or you get a click but starter does not turn, either starter is bad, wire to starter is bad, or internal solenoid switch contacts are bad.......IF nothing happens, bad solenoid....

Larry....You CAN test with a multimeter....Phone for hints....
Steve, I had heard from other sources, that you could test the solenoid and starter by simply bridging the two contacts on top of the solenoid with a screwdriver or wrench... Can you explain if this method is advised or not? I'm thinking maybe not, based on your advice to unplug the one wire and directly ground it, perhaps the method I described could have some negative side effects?
(Obviously bike in neutral and preferably on the centerstand for all testing)

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Discussion Starter #5
Diesel that would mimic how we test solenoids on older fords. The solenoids were pretty bad about going out. Well not just test, but sometimes get home.

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Diesel,
Other than producing open sparks right next to a battery that produces Hydrogen gas. no problem....:eek:
You are NOT testing the solenoid, just bypassing it..... It can act as a test for the starter motor however.....
 
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Yikes! Well I guess that's another good reason to run a sealed gel - type battery if I ever have a solenoid go bad in the middle of nowhere . (Never liked battery vent tubes)

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Starter worked when bypassing.
Now it has started working normally. Guessing bad ground.


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When I was having starter trouble with my CM400C it was very intermittent. It wound up that the starter motor was the failure point even though it would sometimes work.
I didn't get sparks when bypassing the solenoid.
Very frustrating. I feel your pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Was curious as to where the switch get its ground. Not sure, but think only one wire come it.
A thing going out vs a breakdown in that short wiring environment would be more straightforward to fix.

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The solenoid gets its ground from the starter button on the right handlebar switch. There are 2 wires to connect the solenoid, one with switched power (black) and the other connected to the yellow/red from the wiring harness (from the starter button). These may not match the colors on the solenoid if it's been replaced with an aftermarket part, but as long as one of the wires from the solenoid is connected to switched power and the other to the yellow/red from the harness (from the starter button) it should work. And, the handlebars should have the short ground wire from the bottom of one of the handlebar mount posts to one of the gauge bracket bolts because the handlebar mount posts are in rubber in the top bridge
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Don't recall seeing that wire, the short jumper, but easily tested it would seem by a jumper from the handlebar to the frame.

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Yes, that would be a valid test.......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thought that test worked, but pulled the jumper and all was good for several more starts.

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The Brake and Clutch Cable will also "ACT" as grounds but do a really crappy job of it and will quit on you just when you don't want them too.

If you are missing the Jumper that goes between the Bar Mounts and the Top Triple tree put one in of your own making.

It's just (2) ring terminals an 4" of wire.

DSC06025.JPG

The UNATTACHED End goes to the bottom of the Triple Tree where the gauge mounts.
DON'T FORGET to scrap the Powder Coat off the bottom of the TAB or it won't ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I missed this post. I am pretty sure that jumper doesn't exist on my bike. I would have encountered it while replacing the rubber bushings for the handlebar mounts. But my test of using a jumper from the upper handlebar mount bolt to a spot on the frame should have been a good test.
Routinely, what I have noticed is if I do the jumper from the solenoid wire and start it. The electric start will work for a while.
I am glad it kick starts easily, though. Based on the looks I have received a couple of times, I am thinking some have never seen a kick start.
 

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And, the handlebars should have the short ground wire from the bottom of one of the handlebar mount posts to one of the gauge bracket bolts because the handlebar mount posts are in rubber in the top bridge
If you are missing the Jumper that goes between the Bar Mounts and the Top Triple tree put one in of your own making.

It's just (2) ring terminals an 4" of wire.

The UNATTACHED End goes to the bottom of the Triple Tree where the gauge mounts.
DON'T FORGET to scrap the Powder Coat off the bottom of the TAB or it won't ground.
I missed this post.
and the other one in bold as well from a week ago
 

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Discussion Starter #18
During my lunch break, I rode home and grabbed the Honda. I tried a jumper from one of the handlebar mounting bolts (from underneath on the threaded side) and jumped to the frame and also to the turn signal mount (which is a ground for the turn signal). No go. My jumper is two alligator clips and a long piece of wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tested the solenoid again. Just sparks when I ground out the wire from the solenoid.

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The Turn Signal Mounts are NOT properly grounded unless the head light mounts bolts have the GREEN Ground wires on them.
The Headlight Mount Ears/Fork Covers are mounted with Rubber Bushing that insolate them from the fork tubes.
The Lower Handle Bar Mount Bolts ground to the Triple Tree assuming there is NO Paint where you attached the ground wires.

Did you miss the part where I said the Brake & Clutch will "ACT" as a ground path but a really crappy one since they should be greased on the inside.
Don't assume your are good unles that Ground jumper is in place.

Electricity will "TRY" and find a ground path even if it is a poor one that fool you now and will leave you stranded later.
 
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