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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought you guys would like to see the result of combining an FJ600 Yamaha front end, fairing & rear wheel with a very rough CB360. Yes, it's ugly, but funds are short & I need the bike for transportation for the summer. I can worry about making it look pretty when funds allow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More pics of my modified CB360.
In case some of you have notice my ugly but very secure welding, that results from using a flux core wire feed welder.
The brakes and 37mm fork are a huge improvement. I think you could stand the bike on the front wheel with a really hard squeeze of the lever. Also, the fork is about 1.5 in longer than stock which produced a very stable ride at freeway speeds, no more CB360 twitchiness.
Overall the bike is quite a joy to ride around town.
 

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I love it :lol:
 

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Since the pictures don't show it, how are you supporting the rear caliper?? I can't see a "brake stay" of any type. Also, how did you make sure that your sprockets were aligned properly??


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
Since the pictures don't show it, how are you supporting the rear caliper?? I can't see a "brake stay" of any type. Also, how did you make sure that your sprockets were aligned properly??


GB :mrgreen:
The Yamaha had a slot in the swing arm for the brake stay. I simply added the necessary material to produce a slot for this on a spare CB360 swing arm I had. This is hidden behind the swing arm.

The Yamaha swing arm was about 1/4 inch narrower than the CB360 swing arm so i simply slipped a couple 16mm (if I remember right) washers on the axle to center the wheel in the arm & fender. As far as the axle goes, the two were the same diameter so i simply used a CB360 axle. Clearances are very tight around that right rear shock & brake mount also.

To get the right chain line, I had to trim about 1/4 inch off the sprocket mounting flange. This was a challenge to do with common hand tools.
 

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many thumbs up chief, its got a kind of ratty feel to it. i dig it. nice to see some real inginuity at work, hell of a job for a budgetted build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thought i'd give a bit of an update and some pics of the rear brake / chain / axle area.
I have put about 120 miles on the bike since the conversion.
After the initial test ride I replaced the ATF I initially installed in the forks with 20W50 Synthetic.
This changed the handling from wallowy to delightful along with some experimentation with tire pressures.
The bike is also very stable at freeway speeds, with no twitchiness.
The bike seems to like 32 / 36 front / rear.
So far the factory charging system seems to be keeping up with the 55 watt headlamp.
Keep in mind, all lighting on the bike other than the headlamp & instrument laps on this bike is LED however.
The 55w halogen lamp is a huge improvement, though I doubt the stock system will keep up with the 65w high beam.

Now if I could just get that dent in the tank to remove itself. :roll:
 

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As this is a post concerning brakes on a 360:

Can I replace that crazy stock front line with just a single braided stainless line? Looking online I see people selling these lines, but the end that would go into the caliper just doesn't look right. Perhaps I am searching the wrong vendors? Not really trying to restore this bike to its former glory, I just want to make it ride-able.
 

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Theres no reason you cant have the single hose made up (m/c to caliper), but in doing so you will eliminate the mechanical brake light switch. So you will need to fit a m/c that accommodates an electric switch.
 

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leethal said:
Theres no reason you cant have the single hose made up (m/c to caliper), but in doing so you will eliminate the mechanical brake light switch. So you will need to fit a m/c that accommodates an electric switch.

Yeah, I saw that after I posted the question. I will use two braided lines. What I am concerned about is the end that goes into the caliper. Do I just use a regular old banjo bolt there? I am probably making this harder than it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
SteelB12 said:
Bird76Mojo said:
If you change to a master cylinder with the brake light switch built into it like Leethal said, then you can run a one piece line. Slingshot cycles will make you one with the correct end on it. Shown here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3319&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=stainless+brake+line&start=10


GB :mrgreen:
Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
I'm glad to see someone had an answer for him.
I would have answered if I had any idea.
Unfortunately I started with a drum brake bike & bolted on a complete FJ600 front end including bars. .lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, time for a minor update.
I have put 700 miles or so on the bike and am slowly working all the odd little bugs out of the setup.

The other day I tossed an 18 tooth front sprocket on the bike to lower the cruise RPM since I thought 8200 RPM at 65mph was just a bit crazy. This set the gearing near perfect at 1000 RPM per 10mph. By time i pop a fresh chain & a 42 or 44 tooth rear sprocket on in place of the 46 i have now it will be just right. 6200 RPM at 60mph is pretty decent.

I did have to grind the side of the new sprocket down to get the retainer to slip into the groove on the countershaft. Has anyone else run into this with 18 tooth sprockets on these small bikes?? The snug fitting retainer made for no sprocket wobble though, maybe i could get by with an o ring chain this way??

Unfortunately, my Roto Zip did not survive this project. . . . .May it Rest In Pieces.

When I did this I was not sure if the 55 what headlamp would kill my charging system considering I am also running 1.6 ohm coils with 1.6 ohm ballast resistors. I am happy to report that the combination of LED tail lamps, LED running lamps, LED turn signals & only 3 instrument lamps in that Yamaha cluster & a modern replacement rectifier (home made from common parts) has allowed the charging system to keep up.

I do plan on LED instument lamp replacements & an LED high beam indicator eventually along with a relay to kill the headlamp when the bike is in neutral.
 

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That cut-off relay would probably:
be illegal........lights-on laws when running (in some states)
Reduce your visability to other drivers (at stoplights and such, when you need it most)
Might just draw the current you're trying to save.....
Interesting thought though.........
 
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