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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've read the manual but I'm not quite getting the technique to remove the torsion springs in the head. I've removed the outside hold down bolt and, according to the manual, I should be able to put some tension on it and it should come right out. In my case, that is easier said than done.

Am I missing something in the technique here?
 

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Hey Mike, them torsion bars aren't as easy as it sounds. I use a 13 or 14mm open end to twist the bar just enough to remove any side load on the locating dowel that is around the torsion hold down bolt. While yer twisting the bar, wiggle a screwdriver between the ends of the torsion bar at the middle of the engine, in the cam box. This should pop the torsion bar out enough, allowing a plastic prybar of some sort to be used in the now available gap at the outboard end. Keep some twist on the end of the torsion bar for the entire operation. And don't back one side out all the way until you have nudged the opposite side out as well. Makes life a little easier.... Definitely a two hand operation.
Nate in PDX
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CurbTiger said:
Hey Mike, them torsion bars aren't as easy as it sounds. I use a 13 or 14mm open end to twist the bar just enough to remove any side load on the locating dowel that is around the torsion hold down bolt. While yer twisting the bar, wiggle a screwdriver between the ends of the torsion bar at the middle of the engine, in the cam box. This should pop the torsion bar out enough, allowing a plastic prybar of some sort to be used in the now available gap at the outboard end. Keep some twist on the end of the torsion bar for the entire operation. And don't back one side out all the way until you have nudged the opposite side out as well. Makes life a little easier.... Definitely a two hand operation.
Nate in PDX
Wow! That was fast, thanks Nate. I guess I was on the right track but I started using a 17mm wrench and it was to big so I stopped since I was in a "screw it up type of mode today" and I didn't want to bugger something up.

I understand what you're saying and it makes sense.

Thanks
 

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Re: Torsion Spring Removal from 450 Head. edited

Just use a large flat screwdriver - insert in the crack between the ends of the torsion bars, inside the cam opening.
They butt up against each other in the middle of the head there.
Work your screwdriver into the slot, wiggle it some, and one or the other of the torsion bars' little "foot" will work its way off the knock pin and come loose. Take it all out, put it in a baggie.
Don't get it mixed up with a different valve or location.

Then tap the remaining one out from the open side.

No need to "unload" the tension with a wrench or anything.

Edit - sorry Nate, I was writing my post when you posted yours.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmmm, I got it out but you can not put a wrench on the outside holder and take the pressure off since there is a dowel pin holding the clamp in place. However, based on your suggesting, I was able to stick a screwdriver between the two torsion shafts and tap it with a mallet and the one side came out. I stuck the bolt back in the clamp to hold it in position and tapped some more and the other side moved out and I was able to pry them both out past the dowel pin. Worked like a champ. I've done lots of valve jobs on cars and bikes but this torsion bar stuff is a new experience. It's actually a pretty cool system, almost "Desmo Like" but not really. :)

I wonder if this torsion bar system has the same problem with valve float and harmonics that valve springs have?
 

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Mike -

I just wiggle the screwdriver till one side pops off, take it out.
Then the same screwdriver through the holes you just vacated gives you a square shot at the other one - a little tap then pops it off.
 
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