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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fixing up a 72 - 450 engine to change out on my 70 scrambler.

Basically, I have no idea on how to remove the torsion bars. The Clymer manual is sort of vauge, and talks about arrows I can't see. I don't want to do any damage. As detailed a description as possible helps.

Thanks,

I will be out a while, but will check here by Friday and this seems like a great group, so I am sure there will be some great tips.

M
 

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Hi,
I have just taken my torsion bars out, the more expert of you on the forum should look away now but this is what i did.
The book says pull out bar with a pair of pliers.
( no chance on mine anyway) and seeing as there is a locating dowel through the center you can not relieve the tension on the bar by swinging it down.
So i got the smallest screwdriver that would fit between the two rocker arm shafts and gently rocked it from side to side, you will only move it about 2mm or so( and do not forget we are not going to mark the end of the shafts).
This will move one of the shafts, or both if you are lucky away from the head casting, into the resulting gap i placed a thin screwdriver (or wedge thing, whatever you have) and gently prised the bar out, with one bar out it is a simple job to drift the other one out from the empty side.
Now i am no expert mechanic but the above worked for me, i have now got the cylinder head completely stripped and the valves lapped in, which is why i took it in bits in the first place, take your time and label where all the bits came from and you will most likely have yours running before mine!
good luck
Phillip
 

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Phillip, in my book that is the correct and easiest way to remove them. You can also use I think it was a 12mm wrench to relieve some tension when doing this.
[attachment=0:32r3z8lj]SSA50590-1024.jpg[/attachment:32r3z8lj]

EDIT: Looking at my own pic it ia a 14mm wrench. :lol:
 

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Znabb said:
Phillip, in my book that is the correct and easiest way to remove them. You can also use I think it was a 12mm wrench to relieve some tension when doing this.
[attachment=0:15es4vab]SSA50590-1024.jpg[/attachment:15es4vab]

EDIT: Looking at my own pic it ia a 14mm wrench. :lol:
Ronny,

That top end looks a little tired. (sorry, couldn't resist. :lol: )

Good tip
 

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Brown Bomber said:
Znabb said:
Phillip, in my book that is the correct and easiest way to remove them. You can also use I think it was a 12mm wrench to relieve some tension when doing this.
[attachment=0:hte3hghn]SSA50590-1024.jpg[/attachment:hte3hghn]
EDIT: Looking at my own pic it ia a 14mm wrench. :lol:
Ronny,
That top end looks a little tired. (sorry, couldn't resist. :lol: )
Good tip
I'm a bit slow so it took me a couple of sec to get that one. Was thinking, yes that is pre paint but the head doesn't look that tired. Finally found some use for this scooter tire. I also use it when changing tires on the bike as it protects the hub, spokes and rim while I go at it like a gorilla. :lol:
 

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finding a good set if not impossible is expensive. Even new never used ones after 30+ years probably loose some tension on them. I just had a kit like this one put in. bye bye torsion bars.
 

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Where's the pictures??? Where'd you have it done? I was under the assumption that team Hansen is not performing ANY work for the time being and hasn't for quite some time. Personal issues/injury... Not just any old machine shop can install that kit either. It takes some machining to the head that probably only Hansen knows the specs on..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Terry did the work for me about 2 years ago when i was in the process of reassembly of my 450. And yes i dont believe he will be doing any work right now but you never know with Terry you cant keep him still.


I have other pics somewhere of kit he put in but will have to find them.
 

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Quick question since this has been on my list of mods for a long time now: It appears you used stock cams, but what did the head work and kit cost you, total??

I've got a price list from him but haven't looked at it for quite some time.



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Phillip for the detailed explanation.

The tip and photos help a lot Ronny.

I will see how it goes.

Marc
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
Quick question since this has been on my list of mods for a long time now: It appears you used stock cams, but what did the head work and kit cost you, total??
+2 on that!

I would like to do this to mine as well!!!
 

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Here's the quote I recieved from Terry about a year ago.

"I do a complete cylinder head rebuild with the coil spring
conversion the original seats are used and a valve job is done
to make sure they are seated right. That includes the epoxy
coating, and polishing the cam bearings, if a top end oil kit is
installed, then a replacement cam bearing where the tach drive go's
( you will lose the mech tach drive with the oil kit ). the SS valves
come with that kit, doing the head is...975.00 completely finished.

everyone has me do the coil spring kit because they get the valve job &
valve guide installation & epoxy & Hi-temp paint for no charge."


I'm sure that prices are subject to change as needed...



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Thanks!

I am champn' at the bit to dig into my motor and see how bad it is.
 
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