Torque and Torque Wrenches
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^ Why so ??
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Geeky160 said:
As most torque wrenches are length specific, always grasp the torque wrench in the center of the handle. If two hands need to be used, place one hand on top of the other.
As most torque wrenches are length specific, always grasp the torque wrench in the center of the handle. If two hands need to be used, place one hand on top of the other.
It has no bearing with a torque wrench. The beam type, click type and dial type will all read the torque when it's reached regardless of your hand position.
I'm lost... to use a torque wrench properly, you have to place your left hand at the top of it where it meets the socket (on a right hand thread). You have to stabilize the angle to keep it square. The purpose of a swivel handle is to eliminate any twist from the angle of push. The ones that only have a ball type handle are ment to be pushed with the palm of your hand... center of, open handed. Guess that's why guys now go "Click"... Close Enough... Easy Way Out.. .
Suspected that was the case - but thought I'd check anyway!
Thanks LDR.
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The illustrations of the hand position are for the general use of the tool and safety, they have no bearing on torque values. The calibrated reading will read the same with a 1 foot lever or a 2 foot. The effort with a 2 foot will be 1/2 that of a 1 foot however. At 30 ft/lbs. my 18" long 1/2 " drive Snap-on torque wrench is much easier than the 12" long 3/8" drive one. Both are giving 30 ft/lbs of torque.
Two things crossed my mind about torque wrench use that have been left out of the discussion. First was the use of extensions with one. The flexing of a standard steel extension throws off the actual torque value. The longer the extension, the more torque that is being lost in the twisting of it. I was taught to only use case-hardened (impact) extensions. This type of steel will break before it will twist. The other thing was that someone stated that the biggest issue with a beam style wrench was the lack of wratcheting... this is how to add that capacity.
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Anything introduced between the torque wrench and the socket will affect the actual torque. Even the use of thin wall sockets will have an effect. Tire shops are using torque sticks now which are in effect a torsion spring that will only go so far before flexing and limiting torque. Race shops are use bolt stretch gauges to check the elongation of each bolt.
For our purposes stick with short 6 point standard sockets whenever possible, use a deep 6 point socket in place of an extension. If an extension has to be used then use the shortest one that will allow you to do it. The majority of the torque spec's we encounter are low enough that being concerned with the flex is pointless.
For our purposes stick with short 6 point standard sockets whenever possible, use a deep 6 point socket in place of an extension. If an extension has to be used then use the shortest one that will allow you to do it. The majority of the torque spec's we encounter are low enough that being concerned with the flex is pointless.
It's cool that people like longdistancerider put things in that I didn't. The passage of precision mechanical knowledge is one that can't be googled. If it has no resale, it has no relevance... I was fortunate, so my grandfather said... no such thing as lucky. Take note of everything in this forum... and you can't get it wrong. Tourqe specifications are critical... The only thing I can think of now is the use of anti-sieze or lube of some type to eliminate the chatter of metal on metal heat binding. Best thing to do is use cleaning taps and dies on the threads, but they cost money... I have so much money in tools... the wratchet adapter I posted earlier cost me $65... I have three, 2 Snap On, 1 SK, 1/4" 3/8" 1/2", I use em' on T-handles, breaker bars, torque wrenches, and speed handles... I have four speed handles. Mechanics have very little room for deviance... That's why it feels so good to drive the the things you have wrenched on... And can continue to... My 77 ElCamino will break 150 mph... Scares me now days, but fun!!!
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This is an interesting topic, and I have a counter-point that I'd like to discuss.
My first torque wrench that I bought long ago was a Craftsman beam-type (944644, made in USA). It measures to 600 inch-pounds. The black plastic handle is connected to the beam with a single pin, giving it maybe 10 degrees of freedom to move on this axis. I don't have the instruction book anymore, but it specifically stated that to get a proper torque reading that you MUST balance the handle so that you are pushing on the pin only.
This made sense to me in that you are counting on the beam to bend, and the amount of the beam that is exposed to the force will change the reading. However, I agree that the "clicker" type torque wrenches should not be affected by where you grip the handle.
Best regards,
My first torque wrench that I bought long ago was a Craftsman beam-type (944644, made in USA). It measures to 600 inch-pounds. The black plastic handle is connected to the beam with a single pin, giving it maybe 10 degrees of freedom to move on this axis. I don't have the instruction book anymore, but it specifically stated that to get a proper torque reading that you MUST balance the handle so that you are pushing on the pin only.
This made sense to me in that you are counting on the beam to bend, and the amount of the beam that is exposed to the force will change the reading. However, I agree that the "clicker" type torque wrenches should not be affected by where you grip the handle.
Best regards,
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Used an inch drive torque wrench yesterday on some scale pad bolts(1,000 ft/lbs) with the handle extensions added it's 8 feet long. Still a pretty good pull for two of us on the end of the handle.
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