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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Engine case cover bolts also strip easily. Until you're really familiar with the feel in your wrist of 6-8 foot pounds of torque use a torque wrench. To become really familiar with it all you need to do is practice 40 hrs/week for 5-6 years.
 

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To become really familiar with it all you need to do is practice 40 hrs/week for 5-6 years.
Or, as a teenager, break off a few 6mm bolts in choice places on your beat up Honda 50 and 90 and have your father yell at you a few times - then go to work in your first Honda shop job and they start you with putting together brand new bikes out of the crate, at which point you realize you'd better focus on not breaking off bolts in bikes you can't begin to afford :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Bolt torques are different for each engine family. You can't use spec's for one engine family for a different one. Bolt torques and head bolt torque pattern are listed in each FSM. Head bolts are the only ones with a pattern, everything else is done individually or in an X pattern depending on the part being torqued.
Check your Conversations about the FSM
 
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Hey guys thanks again for your help!
I got the link for the FSM and I cant thank you enough. Now how deep does the plate with the bearing on and covering the springs need to be? If they just nipped tight then the cover is not going in 🥴
 

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Because I grew up learning engine building in the 70's, I look at torque wrenches differently. "Clickers" did not exist, and the "dial beams" were sketchy. Though they have come a long way, tricked out wrenches are still not as reliable or as accurate as good beam type. I have a made in USA Proto that I use when accuracy is crucial (such as main bearing caps). I also have two nice US made Craftsmans, you can't buy those anymore. One 1/4" in. lbs., the other a 3/8" ft. lbs.. Though they have been reliable, I don't trust the added mechanical deviance. I take care of them, always unload them when done, and store them in their screw top boxes. A friend recently was putting the bottom end of a Chevy engine together... when he was torquing the mains, it just seemed he was not having to use much force. I went next door and got my Proto to double check... 18 ft. lbs. short of the 85 setting on his! Though they are a little more complicated to use correctly, a beam will always be more accurate. Just an old school opinion from someone that grew up learning to gap plugs three times at hourly intervals to put in the dirt-track engine. The plugs would shift one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Old school is best sometimes. The click type torque wrenches have to re-calibrated time to time. I used to have mine done yearly when I was wrenching full time and used it daily. Now there's the new digital readout units that I have zero faith in.
 

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Old school is best sometimes. The click type torque wrenches have to re-calibrated time to time. I used to have mine done yearly when I was wrenching full time and used it daily. Now there's the new digital readout units that I have zero faith in.

is it what you are referring to?
 

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Just for kicks and grins. I was 15 when I went to work at my uncle's shop, 6' tall, 135 lbs.. My first experience with a torqe wrench was head bolts on a Hyster engine. I was told to stage the torque pattern in increments, little over 1/2, 3/4, 100%. 1st stage 65 ft. lbs., next 90... when I came to the final 125... my uncle was cheering me on... but after four or five... I Was Done. When I'd get over 100 lbs., I just could not steady the needle. That was funny.
 
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