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Sensei
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First question: Why do you think you need larger tires?...Modern compound tires in (as close as possible to) original size will already offer an improvement in stiction and handling.... and will easily FIT!.....Those "fatter" tires don't offer signifigant improvement in contact patch size and their weight can actually decrease performance...

Second question response...... Buy the best tires you can afford, they are all that are between you and disaster.....

I Don't mean to be a smart-ass, ..... I try to buy one speed range higher than the bike is capable of...... This is NO place to scrimp!....

JMHO.... Steve
 

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I looked at going one size bigger, 100/90-18 Front and 110/90-18 Rear. Looks like there is plenty of room to run these.

In the end I decided to stay with the original size. 90/90-18 Front and 100/90-18 Rear. I'm a big fan of keeping the rotational weight as low as possible (cars).

I bought the IRC GS-11 tires. They are well into your price range. They have a tread somewhat similiar to OEM Bridgestone. I have 1.5 miles of gravel road to get home, so I thought this tread would work for me. The tires will be mounted this week. Not the coolest tire on the block, but they'll be new and hopefully work well for the light duty this bike will see for the next couple of years.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/tire/ ... 499&mmyId=
 

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One more thing. My local Honda dealer also carries these tires. They were >$15 higher per tire vs. Dennis Kirk. I brought in the Dennis Kirk info and they matched the price!
 

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Sensei
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I think I know what tread pattern you have....LOL....
Again, the newer compounds will allow more "spirited" cornering... and a slightly larger tire is often OK.... (3.50 to 3.60 or 3.75)..... I just prefer the smaller, better tires.... It's not only rotational weight that alters the "pick-up", it's more unsprung weight that alters the handling characteristics.....
 

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Sensei
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I thought it only fair to give a full explaination....
While a "wider" tire may work fine on a different wheel or bike, the relatively narrow 1.60 rims hold it so that it becomes a "taller' (not necessarily wider) mounting.... This gives a much more "rounded" area at the tread, but it's a smaller "circle" section....You may actually decrease the contact patch, especially in "leans"....
For cornering, you want a longer (wider) shallow arc, not strictly a rounder curvature necessarily.... The same size tire might be somewhat better on a 1.85 rim and fine on a 2.15 rim
You'll need wider rims to "Use" the wider tires to signifigant advantage...and now we're back to the weight aspect as well....
Steve
 

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Sensei
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I assume then, that you understand my reasoning.... Sometimes my explainations are not as clear as I'd like them to be... :?
 

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I just put stock size Duro's on mine, I won't use the 'C' word but just say they were a good deal I think, 110 bucks with new tubes. From the rear the back looks skinnier than the old one but it was pretty square making it look fatter I guess.
 
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