Bill, I followed those detailed instructions. The only thing I didn't use, (which looks like the most inportant) was the light. It seemed ok but it's not running great ,hense my new post. I also replaced the points and when it was running bad, I noticed the left contact wasn't moving very much if at all, so I put in the old point and it ran better. I was having trouble with setting the point gap, and adjusting the point plate. I didn't complete understand the thread when it talked about adjusting the plate. I wasn't sure when to do it or why I was doing it.
Anyway, I've never done timing before so, I just don't know if I'm doing it correctly.
Frustrated, Matt :x :?
OK, Chris just went through the same thing.
It's brutally simple, more comlicated to explain than to do.
Don't try to overcomplicate it.
You do need the little light hooked up like that - when the points open, the current goes through the light and it glows (kill switch on RUN).
Set the left gap to 0.013" or so.
Rotate the entire point plate (the circular plate that the points are mounted to, it has two phillips screws on the rim that hold it in place) till the "LF" mark is dead on when the light comes on.
Move the right side gap to make the light come on at the "F" mark. Don't worry about how many thousandths the gap is right now.
That's it, really.
Now, Chris had a problem I hadn't seen before that I'll mention.
He had a beautiful new points plate with new points and all - the heads on the screws holding the points on were too big, they were actually preventing the points from opening more than about 0.010"-0.012" . Things didn't work out too well with that.