[BildoNC]

A friend of mine brought me a 73 CL350 to work carbs on and whatever else I could do. Carbs are done and starter rebuilt while waiting on new starter clutch springs and caps. It was not locked up hard but did have some love needed to get it spinning free. Seems to run great but is a bit finicky from cold start which I hear is not unusual.

Here's my question. After lurking a bit I decided to check compression and other things I've seen mentioned. With kick only I was getting like 85 on both sides well within each other. Same cold and hot. Also, when doing timing (static) I found the points seem to be set for the advance marks. Dead on the furthest most advance mark on both sides. I tried flipping advance 180° but not thinking that is problem. Could be wrong though as I'm a bit baffled at this point.

I assumed the cam was off a tooth or something. I did do a check someone in here mentioned in another thread where you rotate engine on exhaust stroke until valves just close and mark the locations either side of LT (TDC). There was a difference in these marks from LT. As far as I know the motor has not been cracked and has 12k on it.

Anyway, that's where I'm at now and any tips on where to go next appreciated.

Edit: Timing issue solved. Operator error.

 

[mike in idaho]

On the 350, intake opens at 10° BTDC and exhaust closes at 15° ATDC on the exhaust stroke.

 

[BildoNC]

Thanks, Mike. I guess that's why the disparity between the two. When I checked alignment pin behind advancer in relation to TDC it seemed pretty right on. Still can't sort out timing issue.

 

[BildoNC]

Bad pic of the bike. Pretty good shape for 43 plus.

 

[BildoNC]

Don't know if you caught it but my compression numbers seem crazy low. Like low enough to not even attempt to run. My guess is that my Harbor Freight compression tester is bogus or I'm just not doing something right. I followed procedures seen in YouTube vidz and tried multiple times. Throttle open and kick for highest etc.

Another reason I suspected cam being off and possible valves opening before compression builds. I'll attempt a test on another known good engine (Suzuki Blvd) to get an idea of compression tester status this morning.

Where should the piston be when engine set to FT mark? Visual through plug hole does not show TDC or topmost travel.

 

[BildoNC]

Here's a video of progress so far along with some other arbitrary bits. From this you can see it does run and current state of things.

 

[BildoNC]

Disregard timing question for now. Think I just heard a huge popping noise. And it didn't come from the bike. Somewhere around my backside.

 

[TOOLS1]

I would not worry about the compression readings, it is very common for a compression gauge designed for big car engines to give low readings on these small engines. These engines do not move enough air to fill the gauge hose to compression before reaching the schrader valve in the gauge. And for the timing marks, a lot of people will use a timing light ad time the engine to the advance marks with the engine revved up. ot a problem.
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[BildoNC]

I did get the timing sorted out. It was plain stupidity and lack of attention to detail. I somehow got the stator in off the key. No idea how I accomplished that and didn't bugger something up. She runs great now at idle and timing is spot on LF. Now to source a new battery and do whatever else carb tweaking etc.

So far I have:

Did piston soak to free up motor
Rebuilt starter/carbs
Checked brakes and chain/sprockets
Changed oil (Rotella T4)
Adjusted clutch, throttle linkage, and bench sync'd carbs
Repaired some wiring issues
Purged old fuel and filled with zero corn stuff
Tank was sealed before I got it and has new petcock
Removed fuel filter which was on only one side(?) and replace lines with Tygon
Timing set static
Defunked it everywhere I could

I do need to put a light on it to verify advance is all good. It seemed pretty clean and no binding or anything.

Thanks for the tips

Bill

 

[BildoNC]

Aside from a pop here and there on the right cylinder she seems to be running great now. Also, the kill switch doesn't seem to have any effect no matter where you put it so I assume it got bypassed at some point. I did pull everything apart and clean all contacts etc but no change. All other switches are fine.

Time to do the finishing touches and button everything back up. Still need a starter clutch rebuild kit and left side gasket as the original tore on removal and is ultra black'd for maintenance runs. Any info on good sources, brands, etc would be much appreciated.

 

[BildoNC]

When you think you're well on your way...more surprises

 

[BildoNC]

After cutting away bad plugs and cobbling a connection with wire nuts I've found the rectifier is operational and charging appears to be fine. Guess I'll just install bullet connectors and tape or shrink wrap. Possible I have a four blade plug at shop but not in my pocket.

 

[TOOLS1]

You can get new connectors for that at Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories
TOOLS

 

[BildoNC]

You can get new connectors for that at Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories
TOOLS

Good deal and thanks

 

[BildoNC]

Back together and clean for the most part