Timing again....WTF?

THAT's the problem!..... 312 is the code for an SL350, Not a 360..... They are somewhat different.... I have a spare 369 advance if you can't locate one locally....... $25 plus shipping..... I can mail it out Monday if you'll phone me today.... 540-521-3470

Done, and done!

Thanks again Steve, you're the man!

-MK

Steve is correct - 312 is the code for SL350 K1.

One source says 369 is the code for CB250-360T

Another source indicates 369 is CB360 K0/CB360G/CB360T/CB360T '76

I've never personally seen a 250 Twin with a 360 type engine.........

Matt, the advance went in the mail this morning..... Shipping was $2.36...LOL....

Thanks again for all your help Steve. Hope this combined with the new set of points fixes it!

-MK

If it doesn't, mail it and $3 back........ Steve

I'll probably send you more than $3.

Wonder how much shipping on a 12-pack is...

Well it fixed my points problem. I was able to get the points adjusted so they opened and closed when they should, although I don't understand how you're supposed to maintain the points gap after you set timing...

I got everything back together, and I'm still firing on one cylinder. I'm getting what looks like a weak and sporadic spark from my LH cylinder. Not sure if this is coils or if my timing's just still f'd up.

I'm going to go back through my valve tappet adjustment also to make sure that I didn't screw something up there (although I indexed the pistons about 4x before I made any adjustments...)

Thanks again for the help.

-MK

There is NO specific GAP on the points, they just have to be "within the range" .....
IF they are within range after timing, it will be ok, IF NOT, you'll have to adjust the initial gap on the left point (open or close) to compensate for the "error" in gap on the right points.
This can take several attempts at the ENTIRE timing process to achieve (even for us "experienced guys") depending on the amount of wear on the points, etc.......
Once the left point is timed-in, you secure the entire plate, and "time" the right side by adjusting ONLY the gap on the right point..... If the bike isn't running correctly after this is accomplished, you may have a bad coil or condenser, OR it could be as "stupid" as a bad or dirty plug in connection to them...... I have seen a "bad" points-to-coil wire (where it comes out of the housing) that intermittantly grounds-out due to a break in the insulation.......
Keep us posted as to what you find the actual remaining "problem" was/is...... Steve

I did find a pinch in the yellow wire going to the LH coil, where it looks like the insulation might be cut in a very small area. It's been like this for a while though, because there was electrical tape over it...

I might replace the coils next and go from there.

Also, how "EXACT" does timing have to be. My LH cylinder is firing just after the "LH" mark, and the RH cylinder is firing just after the "F" mark. I wasn't able to get it perfectly dialed in, after an hour of adjustment. It seems like the slightest adjustment would have me either grossly overshooting or undershooting. This is the closest I was able to get it. I even tried switching the points arms, but the old points seem to have more meat than the new ones.

-MK