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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was talking about maybe buying non drilled handlebars and drilling them for internal wiring a couple weeks back. I have done it before with no ill consequences. This is what I found today courtesy of the PO.

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He probably drilled, ran the wires and smoke probably came out so he had to have took it back apart and wrapped the burnt wires with electrical tape and re routed them. It's amassing anything at all worked in the controls. I bought new pre-drilled bars and grips that were about 1/2" shorter than stock so I cut 1/2" off each end of the bars. I'll take a pic and show how they look later. I'm thinking of rewiring from the switches to the headlight bucket and leaving the color coded wires on each end. I would have to stagger the splices to save space then heat shrink them. Eight wires in the right side is pretty thick to begin with, how could I reduce that number? I know people were talking about loosing the off setting and only have the high and low headlight and having it charge at a higher rate, I think. What about doing away with the on off power and using the key switch only, is that an option? What would be a good thread search instead of just going back page by page? Thanks for any input, Mike

pic's of new setup

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You could eliminate the yellow and white wires("dynamo switching") from the handlebars and connect them together inside the headlight. That would eliminate two wires. Changing over to full time lights on, you could mount a five pole relay under the tank and use only one wire to switch between high and low beam. Mount a second relay next to it, wired to the coils and you can have the kill switch operated with one wire . High/low beam, kill switch and start button, using three wires.
 

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^^^just make sure they're relays designed to be on full-time, like injection fuel pump type, so the internal coils don't overheat and burn
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just bought a Sparck Moto R/R also so the yellow and white delete in the right switch still apply's correct? I will also get the pump relay's. Three wires vs eight, seems the way to go. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
My thought just to start is clip the Y/WY in the grip and leave just enough to splice later if anyone would want to. Then connect the Y and the WY in the bucket but I didn't pay attention when un-pluging and it looks like one W /w one female plug in the bucket and there is the y/w and the solid W from the headlight going to be plugged. So I need to look at the schematic and see what I can tell. I'll get back with the relays later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I might have it figured but then again maybe not, I got rid of the Y and the W/y tracer from the handlebar switch and connected the two in the bucket which should give me headlight on all the time or when key is on or, as is does the run on-off switch do anything with the headlight any more? As for 3 wires controlling high/low beam, kill switch and start button, I know the Y/r tracer does the start, if the headlight is always on I'm guessing it will depend how the relay is hooked up but does the Hi/Low switch still control which is on? From what I can tell from a 5 pin relay diagram pin 87a would be low beam and 87 would be high, 30 would be power bat+ from where? 86 and 85, one would be ground and the other + and if all the time how would the switch work? I'm missing something here. Pretty much with the kill switch don't you need both the black and the black/w tracer for the coil. I think it will be better for me to just run the wires as is after all it will be two wires less.
 

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Yellow to White/Yellow is for the charging system, it has NOTHING to do with the headlight being on other than that's when the extra charging is needed........

Maybe you should phone......You are certainly close enough.....

As to your remaining handlebar-switch wires:
Black is incoming B+ when key is on... It feeds the "kill" switch for the coils... It also feeds the headlight [which now should ONLY come on IF you turn it to either the L (Low /White wire) or H (High beam/ Blue wire) position]... AND it feeds the taillight in both (L and H) positions (brown/white stripe wire goes back to key switch which connects it to Brown when in the key-on position)....

The Yellow/Red stripe goes back to the solenoid.... The other small gauge solenoid wire will either be Black, or Green with red stripe.... Regardless of color code, you need to connect it to a Black Honda harness wire.....
 
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