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Discussion Starter #241
Update: 1/25/2020

Sorry for the absence everyone. I have been away from the forum for a couple of days. Thank you to everyone who posted links, they really do help in my research.

I have got the spark advancer and points holder all squared away. I was browsing eBay and came across an advance or with the bolt and washer (They are indeed special components. See photo below). While looking for the points plate, I found one in really good shape, and it turned out it was from the same seller. Yay for combined shipping. Altogether it was $25. A very good deal considering that these components are in almost perfect shape.


Everything was torn down, cleaned, and reassembled with new grease.

Installed with the advancer Mark in the same position as the cam pin. (Thank you @outobie)



Would it be worth making a new version of this points cable?


I also need to mention that I have a sort of sponsorship from ricks automotive and will be doing any installation guide and review of their hot shot regulator rectifier, coils, stator, and rotor. I’m really excited about this as they are new rotor integrates neodymium magnets. This means I’ll be running a Li-ion battery as well. Hopefully more on this for you guys next week.


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Would it be worth making a new version of this points cable?
As LDR said, clean it up and keep it... electrically it's just fine, and it's an OEM part that still works :) and it could be THE original. Gotta keep a little old-school character like that in the bike
 

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
Update: 2/6/2020

The CRC electric spray came in the mail along with some other goodies.

You guys were right, it cleaned up great

Did some work to the coils mounting bracket giving it the old sandblast, prime, and paint job. Went out and got some stainless hardware too. I had two and restored them both so if anyone is interested, I have a posting up on eBay for the one I will not be using.

Link to second restored bracket on eBay:






The order from Rick‘s Motorsport Electrics came in yesterday too, and boy am I excited to install these (hopefully) over the weekend. They have really great customer service over there and they dropped in an extra few goodies for me too.

All together we have a new:
1. Set of coils
2. Stator
3. Lithium–ion compatible Reg/Rect
4. Rotor with neodymium magnets



More to come soon.

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Looks good, but then everything you've done to date has been nice work. Interesting that the coils from Rick's look like OEM coils in the picture (but it won't enlarge, can't get a closer view)
 

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Discussion Starter #246
Interesting that the coils from Rick's look like OEM coils in the picture (but it won't enlarge, can't get a closer view)
Yes, I believe they are the OEM type coils (They are not branded by Ricks).

I’ll be putting in an order from 4into1 soon and will hopefully pair them with NGK resistor caps.



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NOTE: Looks great, but may not work.....
The coil bracket is the grounding connection point for the condensers....
Paint DOES NOT usually conduct very well....... Condensers to condenser bracket, condenser bracket to coil bracket, and coil bracket to frame (and a spot on the frame) should all be clean bare metal.....Alternatively, you could direct wire a ground to the condenser base to bracket bolts...

Edit: The same clean/bare metal connection also applies to the battery negative to engine case joinings......Everywhere separate parts touch......
 

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What Steve said. Either scrape the paint off the bracket and frame or run a ground wire to your condenser.

Also, looks like your left intake rocker pin is turned the wrong way. Needs to have the T leg on the end of the pin facing outward.
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Thanks for all of the pointers guys. It makes complete sense what you are saying 66Sprint. I will most likely splice a ground wire from the harness and run it to the condenser. It seems a lot easier than worrying about a spot for corrosion. As for engine grounding, both the engine and the frame are painted. Should paint be removed from the mounting points? Does this pose a problem with regard to corrosion?

Doode, I forgot to mention that I have not done any adjustments to the engine. Nothing to the rocker arms, timing chain, or points yet. However, the timing marks are with the cam chain and the rotor are aligned.

I tried removing the old rotor last night but no longer have the rear axle bolt to thread into the rotor to push it out, as suggested by 66Sprint (works great). I plan on going to our local Ace Hardware after school today to purchase a similar bolt. I believe that it has to be an M12 but the thread pitch looks very fine. We will see how it goes.
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Discussion Starter #252
Out of curiosity, what primer/paint are you using?


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On the engine and coil mounting bracket I used VHT high temperature primer and paint enamel. It is a bake on paint and holds up pretty well when cured. I really like this color “black pearl“.

Link Paint: Amazon.com: VHT SP405 Black Pearl Single ESP405007 Engine Metallic 11 oz: Automotive

Link Primer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPAV8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.KCpEbHCFSGZ2


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Yes, the engine to frame points are the ground circuit so those need to be bare clean metal. You can coat with dielectric grease at those spots to minimize corrosion.
On my CL I've already planned to add an additional ground wire (14ga) from the head to the frame to insure good spark. Still considering adding a ground cable to the case, not sure there.
 

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On the engine and coil mounting bracket I used VHT high temperature primer and paint enamel. It is a bake on paint and holds up pretty well when cured. I really like this color “black pearl“.

Link Paint: Amazon.com: VHT SP405 Black Pearl Single ESP405007 Engine Metallic 11 oz: Automotive

Link Primer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPAV8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.KCpEbHCFSGZ2


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Interesting. I used pretty much the same stuff (VHT flat black engine enamel) and it has not held up well on my engine.


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Discussion Starter #255
Update: 2/12/2020 (NEED SOME HELP)

I ordered my wiring harness from Spark Moto about two weeks ago but never heard anything back. I sent an email and got in contact with a very helpful person. It seems that they were out of stock and wouldn’t be able to ship their new stock until late March. The guy at Spark Moto offered to hand build me one (but it would have some differences). I have all of school off next week and was hoping to do the wiring then.

If you look at the photo below of what would be different I would really appreciate some clarification on what he means by 3-gang.

So I have two options.
1. Get a hand made harness with some differences (Specifics in photo below).
2. Wait 4 weeks and get the stock Harness.

Obviously this Is a crucial component and a lot of progress will be stalled if I have to wait. Just wanting some clarifications from others by what some of this terminology means and what others would do if in this situation.





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The guy who wrote you is the owner of Sparck Moto (and HT member Sonreir), and he IS a really helpful guy. Matt helps members here who don't even buy his products. I believe what he means about the 3 and 4 gang connectors is, for example, the green ground connectors on the bike in places that will accept up to 4 bullet connectors from green ground wires to be plugged into them. By a pigtail, I suspect he means he'd add an additional same-colored wire single female connector for the 4th connection since he only has group plugs with 3 connections available right now. Obviously, the decision is up to you but I'd trust that Matt would make the harness to the same quality level as his other harnesses and products.
 

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Discussion Starter #257
Update: 2/20/2020

I have seen Matt ( spark motor Co) around on the forms here in there. I would have no concerns and full trust in him making one himself (handmade by him sounds very reliable) I just don’t, at the moment, trust myself that much to understand what changes would happen and how to go about the process if it’s not exactly what the diagrams say. So anyway my order is still in I will just have to wait a little bit.

With this time, and the entire week of school, I’ve taken to the carburetors. And this will please many of you, I am deciding to keep the originals with the diaphragm. Altogether I have four carburetors total (two sets). After going through all of them it seems that to have been worked on prior as they have new were looking up her *** and diaphragms that don’t crumble as soon as you touch them. I’ve stripped them all down and clean them up to the best of my ability.

Here is a comparison photo of before soda blasting and after. Use soda instead of sand because it will dissolve and not get lodged in any small crevices.

I also bought a little polishing bit for my Dremel to clean up some of the brass.

That’s all the work I’ve done so far, and I am wondering if they even need to have some sort of coating (the bodies). I’ve seen some people use in enamel and some others zinc plating them. Does anybody have any recommendations? Can the be left as is?

I’ll be ordering a rebuild kit from 4into1 later on today, but I’ll try and keep as many original components as possible.


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I'll vote for leaving the carb bodies alone. Paint will peel off the first time fuel hits it. The only thing I would consider plating would be the steel parts, zinc plating.
Be sure that you use the same number carb bodies, 3D, 3C, etc. The original jets should be used unless they are damaged, aftermarket jets may not be exactly right. The diaphragms can be replaced fairly easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #259
With a new shipment of parts in from 4into1.com the carburetors are now clean and built up. Every bolt internal and external has been replaced with new stainless socket heads.

Here are some photo guides on the process:










Setting the float height. There is a lot of misleading information on this on the Internet saying that it is 22mm but in reality most of the carbs (the ones with the round floats) are 26mm.










I will be installing some other miscellaneous components soon (Spark plugs, coil caps, levers and tables, etc.)


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Need to reset your float levels. The carbs are tipped slightly and then measured, not turned upside down.
304663

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