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Discussion Starter #202
The rocker arms go wherever you want, doesn't matter.
CMSNL has the .1mm shim, no .2mm. However Ebay has the .2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NOS-Camshaft-0-2mm-Spacer-14295-283-000/283608344424?hash=item42085fe768:g:VRoAAOSwWtNddV1e:sc:USPSFirstClass!98662!US!-1
Read the FSM to determine how to measure the freeplay and get the correct sizing. My 350 uses one of each size or .3mm
Oh wow there are a couple online. I must’ve been looking under the wrong product number I’ll measure it all up now and see what I need to get. Thanks so much for the help.


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Are you sure you need the spacers? You'll only really know if you need them at the ends of the camshaft when you install it and the end caps. Do a dry run; assemble the camshaft in the head and put the end cap gaskets and end caps on (you don't need the sprocket at this point) and tighten it all up; you can then measure the clearance(s) between the camshaft journal ends and the end cap faces with feeler gauges.

If you don't have enough of a gap, get some thicker gasket paper and remake the end cap gasket(s). If you've got too much space, do the same but with thinner gasket paper. You'll get the same effect as adding/removing spacers and can save yourself the hassle of trying to find/buy additional parts.

Just so you know, those spacers weren't used on the CB77/CL77s - the forerunners of the CB350. The gaps weren't deemed sufficiently important to measure at that time. I think I read somewhere that they were added to reduce noise in the top end of the '350's. As with many things, a slightly larger gap is preferable to too little (too little will lead to nasty noises and wear when everything heats up and expands).

As for your second question, it's not really all that important so long as they all come from the same model bike. The numbers on the sides of the rockers don't correspond to particular positions; some of the numbers indicate what bike models they belong with. Not sure what the others are - they may be either manufacturing batch numbers or other factory identification markers. You'd know if they were from a different bike because they would be different shapes.

It's remotely possible you could work out which rocker went with which valve by looking at the wear on the ends of the valve heads, but it would be a pretty pointless exercise. Unlike valves that have been cut into seats, these bits are generally interchangeable whilst they're still within tolerance.
 

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These are the part numbers for the different size spacers. Nothing says you can't combine 2 to make the clearance and the suggestion of thicker/thinner gasket paper is another good way of adjusting
.1mm = 14294-283-000
.2mm = 14295-283-000
.3mm = 14296-283-000
 

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Discussion Starter #205 (Edited)
Update: 12/29/2019

THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE. After two years I finally heard the final click of the torque wrench tightening up the last cap nut on the top end.

I ran into two barriers but were actually able to navigate them quickly without buying any new parts.
The first being that my new gasket set did not include one for the oil pump. I was able to find an image of the gasket online, print it out to scale, and trace it out on some gasket paper that I bought from O’Rileys. This worked very nicely, using a hole punch for the bolt holes.

Looked as good as a manufactured one.

My next roadblock, as mentioned before, was a missing camshaft shim. I actually found this one looking around for some other parts and could finally place a purpose on this part I had been looking over for two years. It was a .02mm shim, filling the gap nicely (.03mm gap or less).


With the clutch components and oil filter assembly all in place, the side cover could finally go on. I spent a good two hours trying to polish it up, but it’s still not as good as I would like it. (New oil seal there too).


After a little bit of final last minute lubrication, then went on the top gaskets, That weird oil dripping plate, and the top cover.


Here is me tightening up the last nut (in a cross pattern).


I still have to install the spark plugs (and make sure they are within clearance) and adjust the rocker arms, but that should be about all if I’m correct (also the points/ignition system, I have no clue what I’m doing there). I bought a stainless mounting bolt set tonight but will have to wait until next weekend to put the motor in.

If I’m correct making up a wiring harness is somewhat of the next process. Electrics will be all new to me so I’ll be doing some research on that over the next few weeks. (Any pointers prior would be nice). I’ll also be rebuilding the carbs, if not buying new ones. I know there is a lot of debate on what to do here so I’d love some others input.

Really nice to see two years of work come together in physical form (even if it is just one piece of the puzzle). Again, thank you for the input and feedback, this motor couldn’t have been built the way it was without this forum.



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^^^agreed, and you're going to have great difficulty staying focused in college while riding that sweet CB350 to school and getting hit on by all the bike-friendly babes... (y)
 

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Just want to confirm with you, since I can't tell from the photo. Looks like the valve cover gasket is installed flipped. There's a small hole next to the rear left center stud, photo #7 in post 205. I don't recall the purpose of this hole, but thought I would mention.

Edit: I took a look at some gaskets and looks like they have the hole on both sides, which means you're probably good. It does bring up the question that you put the cam bearing gaskets on correctly and not backwards?
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Just want to confirm with you, since I can't tell from the photo. Looks like the valve cover gasket is installed flipped.

Edit: I took a look at some gaskets and looks like they have the hole on both sides, which means you're probably good. It does bring up the question that you put the cam bearing gaskets on correctly and not backwards?
Hey, thank you for the input. While I was assembling I specifically paid attention to that hole, as suggested by some of the guides that I watched/read. And you’re right about the gasket set having a hole on each side, so I guess it doesn’t really matter anyway. The only part here that would matter for proper installation would be the metal plate that goes in between the two gaskets. Regarding the cam bearing gaskets, there is a proper way to do it however each side is the same. It’s just a matter of not flipping them upside down or right or left.

I’ll be hopefully posting another update tomorrow as I had an interesting time getting the engine in the frame.



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Wow I am thoroughly impressed! ?

I was just going to say what Brent said, seems like it'd be a nightmare to try to make the harness yourself, no?
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Interesting responses, thank you for them all. Again, just like many others in the automotive disciplines, electrics is a very foreign and non-intuitive area for me (at this time). I’ll have to do my research but I’ve been putting off pretty soon here. From all the examples I’ve already seen, Everyone is using the Moto gadget M unit thingy. I assume that this is just a modern simplified way of doing things but it seems quite (very) expensive.

One of my concerns doing the original wiring harness is that many of the units that I will be installing are not original Honda components and might require different voltage and what not. Could anyone recommend a write up or thread page for me?


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The actual wiring harness is probably good unless someone butchered it. The connectors would be the problem area. Matt, aka Sparckmoto/Vintage Connections, can supply those. He also has a good crimp tool for the connectors.
I would suggest replacing the rectifier and regulator with a modern one piece unit.
I would also rebuild the switch pods so there's nice clean connections.
I've looked at the Moto gadget and while it's some neat tech stuff I don't see any need for it. Here's some threads on the M unit Motogadget M-unit with Spark Moto R/R diagram
 

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Discussion Starter #217
Already, I’ve been doing some research today (throughout my classes) and I I believe I have a somewhat basic understanding of this whole process. One thing that I forgot to mention is that when I purchased the bike no wiring harness was included. Just the components all stored in a plastic tub.

After looking into what @longdistancerider sent out I can definitely say that I will NOT have the budget for any of the fancy Moto gadget stuff. I really have to bring myself back to reality sometimes.

So I guess that leaves me with either buying new wiring harness, or making one myself. I’ll have to go through whatever is cheapest (because we all know I have way more time than I do money) but I do think it would be a fun and interesting learning experience to make one up myself. (Shrinkwrap looks very satisfying ).

I will definitely be purchasing a regulator rectifier (probably from Rick‘s) but it also begs the question if I could/would run his high output charging system with a lithium ion battery. Opinions here would be appreciated. As always thank you for reading.







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Li-Ion batteries are very sensitive to charging voltage.
I would contact Ricks and Matt and ask the specific questions
[email protected]
[email protected]
Here's Matt's wiring harness Honda CB 350 CB350 Twin Wiring Harness Loom | eBay
or an NOS original
or used
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Update: 1/15/2020

I’ve run into a bit of an issue. Looking in the parts bin that came with the bike, there was no spark advancer unit included. Looking online these units are not cheap and it begs the question if I should spend the extra hundred dollars and go with electronic ignition (probably from Charlie’s‘s Place). However I’m actually confused if this also needs the stock advancer unit and only replaces points. If this is the case then I’ll probably just end up down the points route anyways. The cheapest price I can come by online is around $113 from DDS.

Online I can find a used cam case with the unit included on eBay for about $30 but would it be OK to run an old unit like that.
(Doesn’t look too pretty)

Will this one from a 1973 work?

I will hopefully be including another post tonight with an update on the engine in the frame.


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