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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have the exact dimensions on what would be needed? I'm interested to see what/if NSK or Timken offer as a alternative to the Pyramid models

Thanks!
 

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Sensei
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We COULD tell ya, but then "Jimmy the Nose" would visit..... :lol: LOL....

Seriously, just measure outer diameter of the in-neck races, inner diameter of the on-stem cones and approximate "stack height"......You already know that some shimming will be necessary to insure clearance at the bottom of the headstock.... I haven't got a frame handy, but the stem diameters (where the races sit) are:
Lower; 1.1778"
Upper; 1.0199"

I believe Mike posted his "stack heights" when he was trying to figure shim thicknesses.......
I put a "sticky" that listed bearing sizes in the parts interchange guide...under technical in the board index
 

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I just did it (still doing it actually) using ALLBALLS.
I got em from lytle racing on Ebay for $37.28 plus $5.98 S&H

Thanks to Steve, the only problem I had was what to do with that extra dust seal (throw it away)
Everything just -- so to speak-- dropped in. The stack height of the original bottom bearing was 18mm. The thin washer makes the new roller bearing stack height 17mm. The thick one makes it 19mm. Either way, within 1mm of the original as the instructions say. (listening to you guys talk about bottom triple clamp clearance, I think I'm going with the thick one).
I didn't have to modify the top spanner nut at all!
The numbers on my bearings (too late to look at the races) are:
26-485H (top)25.3mm inner diameter (1.0 inches)
and
30-50H (bottom) 29.5mm inner diameter (1.16")

(both are close as I can get with my $1.98 plastic calipers made in Taiwan from harbor Freight.)
both are also marked KML

Maybe you can cross reference them with that number. Now, that's for a 1972 CB450.

Hope this helped!
 

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The thicker spacer will work fine as long as you're not using the mounting ears. They are a breeze to adjust and they'll work great.
 
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