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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently dumped all my wiring into a bucket under the seat.... or what I could get into it. Everything works and runs except the brake light. Mystery. It worked up till the mod. I traced the green/yellow and black wire to the brake swtich/spring to their proper mates in the main harness but still no brake light. Rear front blinkers, running lights, headlamp - No brake light. The brown, has power, the green / yellow has power and the main green and the tail light but no brake light....

I'm at a loss :-? any advice appreciated.

Tim
 

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Sounds dumb, but... check the bulb? The green/yellow should only have power after the brake light switch is on, it's fed by the black wire (switch-on power). If the green/yellow has power before the brake light switch, you likely have a ground feedback problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah. I remember the green yellow should only come on when brake pedal is pressed, correct.... ? It should not be two constant sources at the light, only one.... however the green/yellow mate for the brake switch in the main harness has power with switch on. So thats gonna be brake light on 24/7.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fuse box is suppose to be grounded, correct? Reason for metal ring in screw hole.... if it is it isn't. Probably the problem. Will let know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nope that didn't work either same as before
 

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What about the front brake? If drum brake and the lever is out of the perch, the front switch would be on. If disc, check the type of switch your bike has with the master cylinder setup - older bikes had a pressure switch, newer ones have a mechanical switch attached to the underside of the master cylinder near the inner end of the lever. Or somewhere in the wiring involving the green/yellow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What about the front brake? If drum brake and the lever is out of the perch, the front switch would be on. If disc, check the type of switch your bike has with the master cylinder setup - older bikes had a pressure switch, newer ones have a mechanical switch attached to the underside of the master cylinder near the inner end of the lever. Or somewhere in the wiring involving the green/yellow...
Yeah mine has a plunger switch attached by spring to break pedal rear lever. It has a green/yellow and a black wire tieing to main harness.
I changed nothing but the wiring location, but the yellow green wire in main harness is hot. I figure if it is then the break pedal wires break the circuit when pushed thereby creating a break light. By the way the black wire that runs with the yellow green in the harness hot as well.
 

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Yeah mine has a plunger switch attached by spring to break pedal rear lever. It has a green/yellow and a black wire tieing to main harness.
I changed nothing but the wiring location, but the yellow green wire in main harness is hot. I figure if it is then the break pedal wires break the circuit when pushed thereby creating a break light. By the way the black wire that runs with the yellow green in the harness hot as well.
I know... and you didn't explain what you did to change the location, but that can wait. However, you didn't answer my question about the front brake - they have brake light switches too. Please re-read this below

What about the front brake? If drum brake and the lever is out of the perch, the front switch would be on. If disc, check the type of switch your bike has with the master cylinder setup - older bikes had a pressure switch, newer ones have a mechanical switch attached to the underside of the master cylinder near the inner end of the lever.
If something is going on with the front brake light switch... I can't see it from here, so I have to rely on you to check it.

And if it isn't that, I suppose it could be what you did to re-locate the switch, or something else in the harness that popped up since
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Front is a disc brake with caliper. I’m gonna post pics from last weekend. Of the main connections, where they mounted on side of bike and the tray I installed the wiring in.
Keep in mind everything electrical worked before this and now everything electrical, less brake light, works now.
It looks like a spaghetti mess but I took photos of wires and connectors and connected everything back from where it was originally. The only two wires or four where there was a problem was the two rear brake wires and the two coming from motor casing encased in white cloth. I spliced these to teach the bucket the brake wires barely reached but they did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the green /yellow and black, in the main wire harness, suppose to be hot all of the time? With switch on? If so what purpose does the rear brake plunger switch serve, as a breaker off when brake is pressed...? Or is it to act as breaker on, when braked, completing a circuit and therefore lighting up the brake light when pressed? I assume the later, it makes more sense. So black is hot and when pedal pressed it closes the circuit and puts power on yellow/green.
 

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You have a wiring diagram ??

If not you could do with one .

Black is battery voltage AFTER the main ign on off switch, and feeds the relevant circuits. Green/yellow is feed to the brake light, from either the front bake light sw and/or the rear brake light sw. Usually the main metal fuse box etc bracket is insulated from earth, via thwe rubber mounts, but, the rear mounting bolt is used for an earth point sometimes. Be aware that sometime the fuse box internal contacts ( under the rear of the cover ) can become displaced and touch the metal braketry.

As said, the black wire is battery voltage 12v after the main ign sw. The green /yellow is from a brake light sw to the rear brake light and only has 12v battery power when the main ign sw is on and the brake is on.

Be carefull about "hot wires" meaning they are actually "hot" ie very warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ancient dad.. your the man. I disconnect the green/yellow wire under the front brake /master cylinder and the constant power running to the yellow/green in tray and at brake light works great, now. But what caused this? I absolutely did nothing to front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You have a wiring diagram ??

If not you could do with one .

Black is battery voltage AFTER the main ign on off switch, and feeds the relevant circuits. Green/yellow is feed to the brake light, from either the front bake light sw and/or the rear brake light sw. Usually the main metal fuse box etc bracket is insulated from earth, via thwe rubber mounts, but, the rear mounting bolt is used for an earth point sometimes. Be aware that sometime the fuse box internal contacts ( under the rear of the cover ) can become displaced and touch the metal braketry.

As said, the black wire is battery voltage 12v after the main ign sw. The green /yellow is from a brake light sw to the rear brake light and only has 12v battery power when the main ign sw is on and the brake is on.

Be carefull about "hot wires" meaning they are actually "hot" ie very warm.

Yes, absolutely have been using this since day one. SHOP MANUAL
PDFdk.toastednet.org › Honda_-_Shop_Man... the wiring diagrams are great, as far as I'm concerned. Thanks, this stuff, though I'd much rather be riding, is fun and challenging. I'd much rather learn hands on with advice than have someone else fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quite, your on your own in the desert, so its good to have stuff like the wiring diagram in your head.
Lol, yeah, it's getting there. Seems like these old Hondas are like the Harleys of the 70s and 80s.... a buddy of mine had one and carried a tool pouch with him everywhere.
 

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Ancient dad.. your the man. I disconnect the green/yellow wire under the front brake /master cylinder and the constant power running to the yellow/green in tray and at brake light works great, now. But what caused this? I absolutely did nothing to front end.
While I realize you did nothing to that area, stuff happens. That's why I was trying to get you pointed in the direction of the other switch, just to rule it out.
 

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Seems like these old Hondas are like the Harleys of the 70s and 80s.... a buddy of mine had one and carried a tool pouch with him everywhere.
The only old Hondas like that are the ones that either got poor or no maintenance, or the ones you buy off CL that someone had hacked on and sold unfinished... Hondas of that era that had any decent care are still light-years ahead of the same era Harleys in general reliability - I know, I've worked on both
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The only old Hondas like that are the ones that either got poor or no maintenance, or the ones you buy off CL that someone had hacked on and sold unfinished... Hondas of that era that had any decent care are still light-years ahead of the same era Harleys in general reliability - I know, I've worked on both
But what could have caused as just a day before it worked, either than me bundling the tray, any idea?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Gotcha, on the Harley deal, yeah the AMF Harleys were pretty bad and so I guess Honda came out as an out performer with competitively low maintenance. Someone had hacked on this Honda I have but it ran had two wheels and a seat and I wanted a project. It looks nothing like the icon any longer and runs a heck of a lot better.
 
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