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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was at the store yesterday..not knowing much about synthetic oil, I took a small container of Mobil one synthetic motorcycle oil (10-40W) and put it side by side with 10-40W synthetic automotive oil. I read the packaging....they seem to be the same thing, with the sole exception that the bike oil is far more expensive! Thoughts? I've been reading in many of my classic bike magazines that synthetic is great for old motors. Big question...is it the same stuff? is it just marketing? I'd like to use it in the CB360T....

Thanks
 

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Hmmm.... haven't seen a good oil thread flame war for a while now. Lemme get the popcorn. :D


I'll go first: motorcycle oils are better for motorcyles than car oil is for motorcycles, because 1. the clutch is an oil-bath clutch (at least on most cycles) and motorcycle oil has 'stuff' that's better for clutches and 2. cycle transmissions run in the engine oil (as opposed to 'just' the crank/valvetrain, etc) and ditto the 'stuff' in motorcycle oil.

Synthetic: for a vintage bike, it's just marketing...


*Asbestos suit on* :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
kirkn said:
Hmmm.... haven't seen a good oil thread flame war for a while now. Lemme get the popcorn. :D


I'll go first: motorcycle oils are better for motorcyles than car oil is for motorcycles, because 1. the clutch is an oil-bath clutch (at least on most cycles) and motorcycle oil has 'stuff' that's better for clutches and 2. cycle transmissions run in the engine oil (as opposed to 'just' the crank/valvetrain, etc) and ditto the 'stuff' in motorcycle oil.

Synthetic: for a vintage bike, it's just marketing...


*Asbestos suit on* :lol:
Thanks Kirkn..

So they are in fact 2 seperate products.. I'm glad to have that cleared up :p
 

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Motorcycle oils do not have the "anti-friction" polymers in them that auto oils do. That's why if auto oil is used in a bike, the polymers fill up the clutch friction pads. Making it a "slipper clutch". :lol:
 

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That's a fact Jack!
Mobil one makes a 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. I can buy it around here at United Dairy Farmers (UDF). It's a combination Mobil Gas station, ice cream parlor and quickie mart. They sell it for $6.99 a qt.
A lot of guys (and gal's) I know run Shell Rotella oil from Wal-Mart. It's relatively cheap. Has none of the stuff in it that messes up clutches. I have yet to try it.
Just as an example. Auto oil in my old VF1000F and I would come out of this one particular corner on my favorite road and roll on the throttle. It would accellerate great and off I'd go. 2 oil changes later, with motorcycle oil ( I think I was trying Castrol's synth blended MC oil-- outrageously expensive), same corner, wick it on and the front end is coming up.
Huge effect on clutch effectiveness.
I've heard (but seen nothing published from a reliable source) that the red cap Castrol GTX 20-50 is "good old oil" that is kind to clutches and transmissions. I use it in my BMW (dry clutch, seprate gearbox).
 

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In the past 6 years of racing both my RC51 and a GSXR1K I've used nothing but inexpensive non-synthetic motor oil and it's worked great. The oil gets changed every other race and there have been no problems with shifting or clutch action and no motor problems (except the ex cam on the RC51 broke in half which wasn't oil related) I used the same oil in my street bike (Yam YZF1000) for over 5 years with no problems either. In my opinion, if I change the oil regularly then synthetic, and the associated cost, is not necessary.
 

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Hmmm..... maybe I missed something here.

Is the question one of synthetic vs. non-synthetic? Or one of automotive oil vs. motorcycle-specific oil? Or both?
 

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kirkn said:
Hmmm..... maybe I missed something here.

Is the question one of synthetic vs. non-synthetic? Or one of automotive oil vs. motorcycle-specific oil? Or both?
The question was are Mobil 1 auto and Mobil 1 MC oil the same thing.

And the answer is NO

But Kirk was right debates over oil are always spirited and who dosen't enjoy that :roll:

So here is some fuel for the fire
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

Of course you have to consider the source

And then I have to through my 2 cents worth in - Never Use Synthetic in a freshly rebuilt engine use conventional oil during a breakin period

Ernie
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
qcrider said:
kirkn said:
Hmmm..... maybe I missed something here.

Is the question one of synthetic vs. non-synthetic? Or one of automotive oil vs. motorcycle-specific oil? Or both?
The question was are Mobil 1 auto and Mobil 1 MC oil the same thing.

And the answer is NO

But Kirk was right debates over oil are always spirited and who dosen't enjoy that :roll:

So here is some fuel for the fire
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

Of course you have to consider the source

And then I have to through my 2 cents worth in - Never Use Synthetic in a freshly rebuilt engine use conventional oil during a breakin period

Ernie
Yes, That was the question- just wasn't sure what the difference was between the 2 synthetics. I appreciate the feedback and am glad I didn't purchase the skid from Costco that was a really good price...he he. Thanks for the help guys...
:cool:
 

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As a general rule I'd probably stay with old oil for old bikes (dinosaur juice) and new oil (synthetics) for new bikes. My DRZ SM loves Mobil1 synthetic, but my wallet does not. No clutch slipping here.

I might try a blend such as Castrol Syntec in an older bike just to have some newer oil technology involved. My truck engines (the last two) were clean as my dinnerplate inside after running Syntec. Just my preferences.... ;)

GB :mrgreen:
 

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I have spent way too much time thinking about this.

One point with the racers is they are changing it often where daily drivers are not.

I have been using Rotella T since about 2000 when I bought a new Road Star and was tired of paying for Yamaha oil?, and use it in all bikes since and it works better than clean oil of whatever previous owners have had in them many times. Could be just a minor improvement from new oil???

A couple things worth mentioning is I use expensive synthetic only in all of my vehicles. But a big reason to not in an old bike is if like my CB350 they do not have an oil filter, the oil is cleaned by the sludge produced by oil and the spinner. Modern synthetics have strong detergents and would work best with a filter, even MC specific.

There is no debating synthetics work better, evidently they work too well for our clutches but just not always a good fit. The 350 only takes 2 quarts and no filter so frequent changes are inexpensive. I have been recently adding about 15% Lucas oil stabilizer and really like it. I have an 82 1100 Spectre with about 35K miles with a gear whine that was pretty loud, I was sure it would not last long, since adding only 15% of the Lucas it is all normal and has been great all year!
 
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