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Discussion Starter #1
well, my K3 450 has been sitting a few years now because she wasnt dependable (last straw was me pushing her home 1/2 mile in 100F heat) and i've always had other projects to wrench... but the long winter months of posts here have done INSPIRED me to buy a few parts and build up a dependable summer runner. Heres where i'm at currently:

Bore Tec eletronic ignition
CX500 solid state rectifier
tapered steering bearings
stainless steel caliper piston
steel brake line without splitter
paint refresh (make her LOOK faster, ya know)

my future wants include:
Progressive rear shocks
aftermart coils
remove starter assembly and add starter hole cap

any other dependability changes one might suggest? I'll post pics next warm day the shop doors are open... wait that might be July :p

danWI
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OH YEAH! i forgot that one Bill. I think that might be something to add when i do the rear shocks. Thanks man! danWI
 

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If you go with Dyna coils then be prepared to make your own brackets for mounting. I had to make totally new ones from alum sheet. Pretty easy for some, but for others???

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
make brackets because.... :?
 

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danWI said:
make brackets because.... :?
They won't work as a bolt-up with the 350/450 coil mount bracket, most likely.

I'd recommend the Mike's XS Shop coils - lots cheaper, though a bit of fabbing is still required (see the post on Aftermarket Coils) ........
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bill, I am planning on XSmike's coils and understand a bracket may have to be made. I'm just wondering what GB was trying to say....

as an alternate, i'm looking at putting the coils and EI brain and small sealed battery in the battery box area. have not fab'd it up yet but it appears to be a good space to "locate/ hide" things. Then i'll fab up some side covers or a "box" to clean things up. we'll see what happens when it happens. danWI
 

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Dan -

Sounds good to me - make sure you get the right kind of coil for your elctronic brain, whatever it may be. Should be in the instructions for your unit. Figure out if it's designed to work with the older point-type or newer CDI type coils. Both types are available as aftermarket.....
 

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Since the use of a dual output coil from Mikes XS has been mentioned, I thought you might like to consider a neat way of mounting it to the under tank rail without the need of fabricating a mounting plate....courtesy of Pamcopete in the 650 rider.com forum. Yes, they are pipe grounding clamps from your nearest hardware store. About $2.50 each Best, Blue
 

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Discussion Starter #10
NIIIICEEEEEEEeeeeeee BLUE!! now thatsa slick tip... will keepa eye out for those clamps, danWI
 

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I used a dual output (2 plugs, 1 coil) on Wifey's CB200.
It bolted right up, no problemo.
Two of these would work for a 4-cylinder with points like 350/400, 500/550, 750.........

For this 450 he needs 2 coils with one plug wire each.
 

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Now that is a cool idea of using something off the shelf to make something simple. I used to be on that 650 list when I had a "few" XS650s but sadly dont have any of them any more. Great people with great ideas there too.
Don Slicker
 

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Not to protract......[Thanks Bill, most appropriate reminder... Two separate coils with stock points type ignitions.]
Per Dan's post referencing his intent to use a "Bore Tech electronic ignition" I assumed a high performance dual output coil and showed one from Mikes XS
In any case I really meant to draw attention more to the ground clamp utilization idea as useful for a variety of possible applications. They turn out to be quite handy to mount things on and thereby with to a chassis member. Right up there with vice grips, baling wire and duct tape. A tip re the tip,replace the slotted screw driver headed bolts supplied with hex heads. Best, Blue
 

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Discussion Starter #14
installed the All Ballz tapered bearing set with no real problems... now i'm having problems adjusting! everytime i tighten the top triple tree, the adjust tightens so the bearings "click". suggestions? TIA, danWI

p.s. the tubes are NOT installed right now whilst i await fork seals :(
 

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danWI said:
installed the All Ballz tapered bearing set with no real problems... now i'm having problems adjusting! everytime i tighten the top triple tree, the adjust tightens so the bearings "click". suggestions? TIA, danWI

p.s. the tubes are NOT installed right now whilst i await fork seals :(
I'm assuming you left out the thick spacer that came with the kit. If so, then the clicking you hear(feel) is probably the lower triple hitting the steering head. Take the steering stem out and you'll see where the lower is rubbing on the steering head.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well, it was worth a check but the lower tree is not contacting. I'm having problem when tightening the top nut... as it tightens it spins the adjuster nut also. I checked the parts book and there is a spacer washer and i have it in place. am i daft? wait dont answer THAT question... anyone have ideas why the adjust changes? danWI
 

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If your "Adjusting" nut ( the round slotted one) is spinning when you tighten the cap nut on the other side of the top bridge, it's not tight enough... If I remember correctly, tapered bearings "like" about 65 to 80 ft/lbs to be properly torqued........What torque does the manufacturer recommend?
 

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66Sprint said:
If your "Adjusting" nut ( the round slotted one) is spinning when you tighten the cap nut on the other side of the top bridge, it's not tight enough... Tapered bearings "like" about 65 to 80 ft/lbs to be properly torqued........
...65-80 ft/lbs?? Is that a typo?
 

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Nope, the wheel bearings on a BMW (tapered bearings) are pre-loaded with an axle torque of 90+ ft/lbs... Honda specs the steering stem with loose roller balls at about the same spec....58 to 87 ft/lbs .....the very top "acorn" is only tightened to about 25 to 30 ft/lbs...
 

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Dan...What kind of grease did you pack the bearings with?...How did you press the races ("cups") in?.... "Clicking" is usually lack of lubrication, a "cup" is in crooked or cracked, or a bit of grit got in the grease..... A bent stem will also cause this, but I believe yours is just too loose....

As I am sure there are doubters about the torque specs, see below..... Second item, left-hand column.. The ones I previously specified were actually for a 360......


I always torque it down tight to "seat" and "square" the bearings and races fully, then just loosen it enough for "free" swing/tracking side-to-side.......
 
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