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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
honda cb450 KI my clutch lifter rod is stuck in . the motor sat for a long time but I did remove clutch basket and separated plates but did not clean.i installed a new clutch cable and clutch engages in 1st gear and I can take off . After that there seems be no clutch and has a problem going into 2nd
Can not adjust cable as the forum suggests as when turning the clutch adjuster there is no spring back from lifter rod. The bike will go into 2nd gear
when I rock it without clutch and engine not running.
I am going to remove engine cover . Any advice on what I should be looking for .and also should I get new clutch plates? Not sure how to tell if existing ones are ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
sorry I should have said the little ball bearing is in place. clutch adjuster is clean, greased and seems to be working fine
 

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If you take the front sprocket cover off, you should be able to pull on the lifter rod, which should slide out.

One way to test if the clutch is releasing is to use the kick start; it drives the engine crankshaft through the clutch, so should be free when you pull the lever. I've read your other posts on the clutch, but it isn't clear that you began the adjustment with the adjuster on the sprocket cover, before connecting the cable to the lever - did you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Rick have pull out lifter rod ,cleaned and reinserted . the clutch adjuster just touches the lifter rod but does not move it when turned all the way clockwise. Yes have turned in adjuster while on sprocket cover. Have disconnected cable from adjuster and tried ..same result... I have drained oil, removed exhausted, kick start and about to remove side cover. I am hoping to see lifter rod push clutch spring .I think I may have broken hook on gear shift spindle riding around without clutch working when I put bike together. I replaced it, didn't know anything about clutch but had to remove basket to do repair . Maybe I did something stupid then but I was very careful. appreciate any advice . After you helped me with carbys the motor is running really great , but I am not going to ride it until I get this sorted for fear on doing more damage



c
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Rick should there be a steel ball at both ends of the lifter rod ? It does feel like the lifter rod is not long enough or not coming out far enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok Rick took side cover off, this is what happen: can not get clutch plates to move, open (seperate) by turning clutch adjuster full clockwise , however if I adjust cable (tighten) clutch plates start to seperate with adjuster turned all the way clockwise ... its like the lifter rod is too short .i definitely have steel ball at adjuster end
 

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Kanga,
Be careful in this area. It is easy to damage the #11 lifter. Make sure the clutch adjuster #12 and #11 lifter is clean and has fresh grease on it. This is important to allow smooth movement of the clutch mechanism. Also the ball #10 should be greased too. The flat end of the #9 push rod should be to the left. When you get the right cover off (from rider perspective) you should be able to turn the adjuster to remove the slack in the clutch linkage and then back it off to prevent binding. You should be able to see the #7 pressure plate lift. Please post your findings.

Clutch Exploded.jpg

Clutch Cross Section 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks Rick will take clutch off to have a look .Should there be a steel ball inside lifter joint piece?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jim the pressure plate does not lift with clutch adjuster alone ... need to add clutch cable as well . I think Rick could be on to something, maybe PO didn't install lifter joint piece. Or maybe I didn't .. I am about to find out ... I asked Rick about a steel ball at clutch end of lifter rod . does it have one ?. back to the bike ,will keep you posted
 

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Look back at the drawing I posted, and also the one by Jim; mine is the newer 4-bolt clutch, his the older 6-bolt version. In neither one is there a ball on the joint piece end.
Jim's warning about damage should also be heeded - if you turn the adjuster on the sprocket cover far enough, the chain can hit the clevis that holds the end of the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi rick ok no steel ball . have it apart and the clutch lifter joint piece is there . turning the clutch adjuster does not cause pressure plate to lift ,slide where else should I look its like the rod isn't long enough. any suggestions .Thanks
 

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You need the ball. Make sure it is not enbedded in a dried old grease cake. It is a 5/16 inch steel ball bearing. One of two English parts on the bike. It is not uncommon to find them missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hi Jim yes there is a ball at the clutch adjuster end Rick was telling me not to use a ball at the clutch
lifter joint piece end (other end), any other sugestions before I put it back . all parts are there according to Honda shop manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hi something else I should add .Even with the clutch cable adjusted and the clutch adjuster turned fully clock wise I didn't actually see the friction plates seperate from the clutch plates , just little bit of sideways movement . all the plates separated easily when I removed basket
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hi going to put every thing back together in the morning . I just read on on old post about pressure plate could be off 90degrees .How can i be sure to put it back on correctly ?
 

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I don't see how the pressure plate orientation would have any affect. Now, having the steel plates installed in the wrong order can. Note from the drawing that there are two different steel plates, #4 and #5; there is only one #4, which goes in first, and has to be turned the right way around. I don't have a photo showing which side faces out, though - maybe someone else here does? You may be able to tell from the cross section drawing Jim posted.

Turning the adjuster on the sprocket cover likely won't actually lift the clutch plates, since it takes so much force to overcome the springs. You should feel it press the lifter rod against it though, so that when the cable pulls the lever on the helix-threaded part, it will force the lifter against the pressure plate. You should leave a small gap between the adjuster and lifter rod, just to allow for heat expansion, so you don't get slippage.
 

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I don't see how the pressure plate orientation would have any affect.
There is actually a position where the pressure plate can be installed but doesn't fully engage the "splines" on the inner hub, which is the reference being made I believe. In that scenario, IIRC, the clutch assembles seemingly correctly but is always disengaged and won't pull the bike. When the pressure plate is installed, it has to be engaged in the inner hub splines so that the springs actually compress the plates together. You are absolutely correct about the single steel plate with the beveled backside, it has to be at the back of the plate stack
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok, thank you , got that .. going to put it back together. Could the 4 (in my case ). clutch springs be worn ? I mean loose their tension . Is It a critical factor? I notice clutch /friction plates sold with new springs.. Also Tom i checked out the Pizza Cutter and it is good . Rick I have Honda Shop Manual and can see how all plates are to be installed. Appreciate all the help
 
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