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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Man it's been a while since I've posted on here! Mainly because I've been out enjoying my CB360 instead of fixing it! That is until now. The last time I rode it was exactly one week ago today, and it ran perfect. I go to start it up today, and when I put the key to "ON" the green neutral light doesnt light up. I figure maybe my battery drained, so I hook up the tender, and get nothing. The charge light won't go on on the tender.

So I open up the seat and notice that the middle fuse (7A labeled "HEAD") is blown. I tried to substitute the TAIL fuse for HEAD to no avail. Then I put a bolt in there to see if I could at least get the neutral light to come on and the battery to charge. Still nothing. I can't kick the bike to life either, so somewhere I'm not getting battery power to the bike. I'm wondering if the lack of neutral light just meant that I had the shifter at an odd position, but that wouldn't explain the tender not working, unless there's some weird safety where the bike won't function when not in neutral.

What say ye oh wise ones of Hondatwins?

-MK

p.s. nice to be back on here again!
 

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Sensei
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Even IF (and I say if cause I'm not sure) the bike has a "safety switch", pulling the clutch lever in should override it, and it should work/e-start.... If it still won't start, get a multimeter and check for voltage (to ground) on BOTH sides of ALL the fuses.... Voltage on one side: fuse blown (even if not visably)..... voltage on both ...OK so far..... Voltage on neither side, bad connection to battery via the ignition switch......(again, not sure if "main" fuse is before or after switch, it might be good, but the switch is not sending the power further on the circuit)... Does the horn work?.... Solenoid click?.....
No?....There is an "open" somewhere in a power supply wire (Red, Red/white, or Black)... Track them ..... A jumper from B+to the Black wire on theignition switch by-passes the ignition switch.

Back to the fuse box....Back in the day, this was common as the "clips" that hold the fuses are radiused for a metric fuse.... installing SAE fuses allows minimal contact, overheating the brass clips to where they no longer make contact/conduct. (actually burns/scorches the brass and discolors it)....Any chance that's the case on your bike?

Of course, it could be a bad battery, or one of the battery leads....Does the tender hook directly to the battery?

Let us know.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bike does have a neutral switch, I found it in my wiring diagram. I don't pull the clutch lever in when I kick the bike over, however it stayed put and didnt roll, so I'm assuming the trans was in neutral, but maybe the switch wasn't causing the light to be out.

-No solenoid click, but I never tried to electric start the bike. I tried jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver, but no dice.

-The clips in the fuse block weren't charred or discolored indicating a good connection. The fuse was blown directly in the center of the glass tube.

-The tender does hook directly to the battery, and the fuse in the line is still in tact.

-MK
 

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I'd double check all grounds, maybe even unbolt them and retighten. Then look for signs of mice chewing..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just got home from work and the battery is charging now. I turned the key on and the neutral light lit up full bright for a split second before quickly diminishing to a very dim light. I was able to replicate this one other time, now whenever I turn the key on I get the very dim light. I'm going to let it sit and charge. Hopefully it's just the battery. I checked all the grounds and connections and everything looks good.

-MK

p.s. just checked the voltages and I'm only getting about 4VDC at the battery. I'm getting the same on both sides of the fuses too, so they appear to be good.
 

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Sensei
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4V is WAY below what even a discharged battery should read.... You probably have a bad (sulphated), open, or dry cell in it somewhere..... Did you check the fluid level in the battery before charging?..............
Any chance you turned it to "park" rather than "off" when last you shut it down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I guess there's a chance that I left it in park, however I'm pretty sure I didn't. Although my "constant on" part of the tail light hasn't been working lately (the brake portion still does though).

I checked and had to add water to all the cells. Hopefully she charges back up and runs!

-MK

edit: Just went out and checked on it again, and the battery tender isn't charging again. I measure 1.4VDC at the battery.

What next, new battery?
 

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Sensei
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I hope you added DISTILLED water.... If you did, give it some time to recharge...Tenders tend to charge at a tiny rate like .1A... That's a 12A battery, so it would take 120 Hours to fully charge at that rate.... (divide the charge rate into 12A)
OR, get a bigger charger....(more Amperage, but not over 1.2A)
IF you added TAP water, IMHO you would be better off buying a new battery.... Might work for a while, but the chemicals in most tap water will weaken/damage the battery......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah it was distilled water.

Problem is, the tender is blinking which indicates that they battery isn't hooked up. It is indeed hooked up and the connections are good. What gives? Think I should just bite the bullet and get a new battery? Mind you this one is only about 4 months old, and was fine a week ago.

-MK
 

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The Battery Tender is trying to tell you that the battery is shot.
Just becuase it's not old, that doesn't mean anything.
Like everything else these days, quality is very low on batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Guess I'm picking up a new battery from Iron Pony here tomorrow morning.

Question: Is there a better quality dry cell battery I can purchase and drop in?

Thanks for the advice

-MK
 

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Dead batt is what i'd suspect. If everything is hunky dorry for this whole time then POOF battery isn't working i'd suspect the batt.
 

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To verify it indeed is the battery, you CAN jump it off your car......If it starts, the bat is the problem ( I believe you'll find it is anyway).......
 

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mktsc said:
Question: Is there a better quality dry cell battery I can purchase and drop in?
-MK

If you can find one that packs 12 amp-hours, fits in the space, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, then go for it.
I can't think of anything that fits those parameters except a standard ol' battery.........
Maybe someone else here has a source.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hooked up my car battery this morning, and it worked like a charm. I must've left it in the on position and killed the bat. Get a new one tomorrow and get back on the road!

Thanks again guys.

-MK
 
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