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When ever I start my 450 I hear a screeching type noise. Sounds like the starter dragging/ not disegaging for second or two. It doesnt do it while cranking. Just when the engine first fires up. Ive also noticed it will do it when I kick start it. Same deal not while im kicking but when the engine first fires.

I was thinking it was the starter clutch thing(not sure of the name) hanging up. Im not sure though.

Anyone run into this? Any suggestions?

Thanks, David
 

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robe338 said:
When ever I start my 450 I hear a screeching type noise. Sounds like the starter dragging/ not disegaging for second or two. It doesnt do it while cranking. Just when the engine first fires up. Ive also noticed it will do it when I kick start it. Same deal not while im kicking but when the engine first fires.

I was thinking it was the starter clutch thing(not sure of the name) hanging up. Im not sure though.

Anyone run into this? Any suggestions?

Thanks, David
Starter clutch is probably on its way out - what you are hearing is generally the first sign.
The good news is that it's generally the little springs and sleeve-thigingies in the clutch - cheap and still available.
 

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Any one have procedure/breakdown on the best way to go through the starter clutch?

Allen
 

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The starter clutch is almost the world's simplest device.

Just pull off the left side cover, un hook the chain from the starter, pull off the alternator, and there it (the clutch) is on the back of the alternator.
Three springs with caps, that's it.
Usually those springs are whacked, sometimes the flat circular plate holding it all together is cracked. The thick circular thing is called the clutch itself, but rarely goes bad.

When the clutch goes bad, the howling or whining noise is the textbook symptom.
 

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May be on its way out but will also make this noise if battery not fully charged.If battery left connected when bike not in use poor rectifiers can discharge it.Either disconnect lead to rectifier when not in use at contact block or disconnect battery or fit new style rectifier available on ebay.
To check whether discharging measure voltage across battery leave connected to bike for afew days when not in use then recheck voltage.If voltage down sort problem.I was once told the old orange rectifiers only lasted a few years anyway.Hope this helps.Regards Chris
 

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Chris,
Not to be arbitrary, but I simply do not see any relationship between battery state of charge and the proper functioning of a strictly mechanical device......
While a "low" battery might ultimately cause the starter clutch to rotate slower, it actually has NO effect on wether it works or not...The starter clutch (in good condition) will fully engage when slowly rotated only a few degrees in the proper direction by hand.....
Please enlighten us as to the circumstances that led you to that conclusion....You have piqued my curiousity..... Steve
 

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Bill,
Thanks for the "procedure", it's on my list of things to do this winter.

Allen
 

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Chris -

Just realized that you're the Brit who couldn't join without a zip code, and used mine - sorry.

Incidentally, that's an awesome stable of Bombers.
 

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66Sprint said:
Chris,
Not to be arbitrary, but I simply do not see any relationship between battery state of charge and the proper functioning of a strictly mechanical device......
While a "low" battery might ultimately cause the starter clutch to rotate slower, it actually has NO effect on wether it works or not...The starter clutch (in good condition) will fully engage when slowly rotated only a few degrees in the proper direction by hand.....
Please enlighten us as to the circumstances that led you to that conclusion....You have piqued my curiousity..... Steve
Hi Steve totally agree with theory but not always true in practice-all I can say is mine does exactly same with low battery but perfect when fully charged.Probably one of those centrifugally,oily type of anomolies.
 

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GAMD5 said:
May be on its way out but will also make this noise if battery not fully charged.If battery left connected when bike not in use poor rectifiers can discharge it.Either disconnect lead to rectifier when not in use at contact block or disconnect battery or fit new style rectifier available on ebay.
To check whether discharging measure voltage across battery leave connected to bike for afew days when not in use then recheck voltage.If voltage down sort problem.I was once told the old orange rectifiers only lasted a few years anyway.Hope this helps.Regards Chris
Although maybe wrong in this case, the information was very valuable.
All I can add is, the volt drop could also be due to a dead cell in the battery. Check that by leaving the battery disconnected and performing that same test.
Thanks Chris!
 

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Had a word with a mate of mine who was locally called the Honda doctor for his wealth of experience both owning his own motorcycle shop and racing his CR190cc for over 10,000 miles in the Isle Of Man etc for many years.His reply may well be useful in the future & went as follows:-
I am a little puzzled why the starter clutch is dragging when the battery is low.I think it may be something simple usually is.I am always suspicious that the clutch on the rear of the alternator is loose or "off centre". Perhaps the easiest way to check is substitute it for another.Don't try to tighten the screws up they are always "peened".I often find you are always as well to use new screws if they aren't tight but take care as they need to be very tight,using a T handle driver & a vice to tighten.Use some loctite of a suitable grade.
It is always advisable to check that the springs (not twisted),caps (move easily in holes) and rollers (Must be round) are good.It is not possible to be 100% sure that the Assy is con-centric but there is originally a recess where the clutch is fitted and also a dowell to help locate it.They do sometimes come loose and the screws sometimes break or the threads strip(usually because they were loose.)Last thing to check is whether the whole alternator is mounted correctly on the taper.Only way to be sure is to remove the woodruff key.Next put some very fine grinding paste about 300 grade or less on the shaft,maybe a bit of castor oil so it is very fluid.Next rotate the alternator a bot to allow is to "grind in".Then remove and be very thorough in cleaning it all up.Make 100% sure you have got rid of it ALL including the groove in the rotor.Then reposition the rotor on the journal,if possible use an impact driver to tighten the retaining bolt.Don't go mad with the impact driver as you can remove the inside web of the crank if you belt it too hard.
Hope this helps for future use.Regards Chris.
 

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Bill, I am another Brit who used your zip code to join and glad I did, thanks.
 

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tbpmusic said:
Holy cow, Chris - I checked out your Member Profile, and your zip is the same as mine !!

Are you really in LaPorte???
The sailing term for such an error would seem to apply Bill......

"Hoisted by your own petard" Best of luck and Happy New Year! Blue
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
blues450 said:
"Hoisted by your own petard" Blue
What's a petard?? :lol: :p

GB :mrgreen:
Strictly speaking, it ("Hoisted by your own petard") means "Injured by the device that you intended to use to injure others".

Not quite sure how that would apply here, but.....
 

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Gents....a "petard" is a line (rope) used on a sailboat to lift/raise a sail, banner, or most
anything up a mast...even a person. The line runs up the mast through a pulley and back down to the object to be raised aloft. The phrase "hoisted by your own petard" I thought applied in as much as Bill suggested to others to use his zip and was then later confused by seeing its presence.

My feeble attempt at humor...back to the motorcycles
 
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