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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guy,
I turn the ignition on , push the starter button and nothing happens. I jumped the solenoid and it would crank. When I turn on the ignition the neutral light comes on but no headlights or turn signals or rear lights. I had the headlight bucket off for painting and it is still off. I am trying to install led strip lights for the rear too but I disconnected all the rear lighting. Any thoughts.?
Thanks in advance,
JC
 

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All the lighting goes through the headlight bucket, so none of the lights should turn on, unless you mean it didn't work before you took the bucket off.
Also, the wiring to the handlebar switches also goes through the bucket, so the switch may not be connected. Did you reconnect all the wiring, in the correct places, after you removed the bucket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All the lighting goes through the headlight bucket, so none of the lights should turn on, unless you mean it didn't work before you took the bucket off.
Also, the wiring to the handlebar switches also goes through the bucket, so the switch may not be connected. Did you reconnect all the wiring, in the correct places, after you removed the bucket?
Thanks Rick. Everything worked until I took the bucket off. I will recheck everything tomorrow. I checked it once already but I must have missed something. The horn works.
Thanks again,
JC
 

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Perhaps I misunderstood, but, did you say the headlight bucket is still off? If so, a lot of wires are disconnected and pretty much nothing should be working.
 

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With the bucket off, the ground wire that connects to the nut that holds it to the 'ears' (and grounds the signals and maybe the tree) is not connected, and may be keeping the ground path open. It's been a while since I've been in mine, but the start button needs that ground, if there isn't another path. There should also be a ground wire on one of the nuts that holds the risers to the tree, which is how the ground gets from the tree to the switches, through the bars. That said, I don't think the horn would work if the bars aren't grounded.
 

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What bike?.... The 500T and 450 use differing connections for the starter and headlight circuits.......Also check headlight fuse.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With the bucket off, the ground wire that connects to the nut that holds it to the 'ears' (and grounds the signals and maybe the tree) is not connected, and may be keeping the ground path open. It's been a while since I've been in mine, but the start button needs that ground, if there isn't another path. There should also be a ground wire on one of the nuts that holds the risers to the tree, which is how the ground gets from the tree to the switches, through the bars. That said, I don't think the horn would work if the bars aren't grounded.
Got the headlights to work. Not properly grounded to the tree. No luck with the starter and signals. I have the regulator not bolted to anything right now. It was bolted before. Could that be the missing ground path ?
 

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The reason I asked "which bike" is the 450 grounds the already powered solenoid, while the 500T sends B+ power "borrowed" from the headlight circuit to the normally already grounded (by either the neutral switch OR the clutch safety switch) solenoid.....
It is important to know which in order to even find the correct grounding and B+source wires for the starter motor circuit since failure of either the power wire or the ground could be the problem in both cases......

On your 450, check that the black wire to solenoid has B+ power and that the starter wire (yellow/red stripe wire) gets grounded when the button is pushed
 

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That could be be, it is bolted directly to frame for ground. Clean that and all ground to frame connections by sanding them.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

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No Charlie....The stock regulator floats on rubber insulated bolts...
Its only ground connection SHOULD be its green wire.....Can't normally affect the start circuit directly....

I DO agree on cleaned ground connections though......;)
 

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Grounds are definitely important. I spent half a day alongside the road last February, trying to get a Kenworth truck going, because of a bad ground. Turn the key on and a few warning lights would glow(dimly), twist to start position and everything goes out. We cleaned all the connections, bypassed the switch, no help. Finally traced it down to a bad ground connection between the cab and the chassis. The truck uses a powerbox containing fuses and relays, on the firewall, to feed all the circuits. With the bad ground the ignition relay would not close to power the ECM or the starter circuit. Next time I have to go out and rescue a truck that ground wire will be the first thing I check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got the starter to work!! Big donkey did not have the rectifier tightened ! Turn signals are the only this left. The rear turn signals are not hooked up. I am thinking that they may have to be hooked up to complete the circuit?
 

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Rectifier should also have made no difference unless you have it used/connected as the only chassis ground connection on the ground buss wiring (dark Green wires).....

Rear T/S being disconnected would only cause a lack of flashing, the fronts should still light up...IF they are grounded and have good bulbs, cleanly connected...
 

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The stock regulator does not provide a ground, but there should be a ring terminal at the battery negative terminal on a wire that comes out of the harness near the battery. This is the wire that provides the ground into the headlamp bucket, and other places. Got a wiring diagram? It doesn't show routing, but does show all the places that ground wire should be connected.
 

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Charlie,
Shouldn't be grounded on your 175 either.... The rectifier has a chassis ground as well as a wire ground...
The regulator should not, (wire ground only).....It should "float" on rubber grommets kept from crushing by short metal tubes on the bolts.....

Because the early regulators were essentially a couple of components soldered together and "potted" in an aluminum "can" they often had an accidental "hot" connection to the can...So Honda simply isolated them with small rubber cushions on the bolts.....IIRC, they are simply a "gated" SCR, a zenier type diode, and a resistor inside the can.....Voltage present on the Black wire controls opening or closing of the "gate" which either shunts the Yellow wire AC pulse to the Green wire ground (or not) depending on voltage being above or below the SCR's "preset trigger voltage".....
 

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It had the original unit, which did have the rubber grommets. But there was no rubber on the back side next to frame. Maybe thats why my voltage was all over the place reading wise. When i replaced it with the new style. I went straight to battery negative with 1 ground, and to the frame with another. And now i get a good voltage reading.

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