Honda Twins banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all-

Last week I replaced the clutch cable and throttle cable on my freshly rebuilt bike, but now I can't get the bike to take off after I put it in 1st. It always stalls no matter as I try to take off. I can't figure this out.

Here's a video of it happening:

I replaced my old clutch cable with a shortened one from Common Motors. I figure it's something with how the clutch is adjusted. My process for that was:

1- I screwed the adjuster cable where it feeds to the clutch all the way down
2- I set the handlebar adjuster screw at half-way
3- I adjusted the adjuster on the side of the case (screwed clockwise past the marker until it stopped, then back toward the marker until I felt a little resistance, almost getting back to the marker).

4- That was still quite loose. So I backed the adjuster in step 1 out about 2cm until the clutch lever felt decently tight with only about 1cm of looseness as I pull the clutch.


Any one willing to try and help me out here? I keep messing with the handlebar adjuster screw, but I'm not getting anywhere. Really don't want to just drop it off for a $300 repair after doing the full rebuild myself!

Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hell ya, thanks again! I will update once I get out of work (if I can get home before dark....after that and the neighbors start complaining!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, I haven't test driven it yet (pouring rain), but I think I got it corrected in my garage!

I put the bike on its center stand and I played around with the clutch until having it in 1st with the clutch pulled/rear-brake depressed didn't stall the bike.

Now to adjust my idle down to 1200 or so. I'd remove the carbs and measure the openings again....but removing the connectin piece between the carbs is so annoying! Have to loosen the throttle cable a bit and turn the carb adjsuter screws about 1/4 at a time.

Thanks again you guys!!

Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey 66Sprint and HondaPete! (or whoever wants to chime in),

I ended up bringing my bike to a shop because I couldn't figure this out. I did a 100% rebuild on the bike myself, but I am new to this....so I needed help. The one-guy-shop came highly recommended and I really liked him.

Here's what he found:

(1) The front brake is sticking and thus the master cylinder drain hole must be plugged up.
(2) The bike is stalling after a bit of idling. One spark plug is dirty and that cyl is not getting equal amounts of fuel.
(3) I wanted him to use the Common Motors re-jet-kit I bought and figure out which would be best for my air pods.


Do you guys think the below prices are reasonable? I rebuilt both the master cyl and the carbs myself already, so I though both of these would be very easy fixes for him. With that, I thought his quote seemed high in terms of hours billed for the carbs.

2019-06-05_14-01-15.jpg


Thoughts? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
I suppose that $80 an hour is what he needs to pay his overhead, plus make a decent wage. It would be interesting to see if anybody on here has access to any of Honda's old flat rate manuals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,360 Posts
(3) I wanted him to use the Common Motors re-jet-kit I bought and figure out which would be best for my air pods.


Don't do it. Unless your jets are damaged, they can be cleaned. Often times after market jets are not sized correct;y and you will have a hell of a time tuning the carbs


$604 for that? Jesus Mary and Ralph!

Get yourself an after market master cylinder and done. The newer ones are better than the OEM MC anyway and will be wayyy cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-7-8-Handlebar-Master-Cylinder-Hydraulic-Brake-Control-Clutch-Lever/401771400942?epid=22010549391&hash=item5d8b710eee:g:7rwAAOSwC-1c48Xg



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thank you everyone! I agree his time IS worth it, but I think I have to remove a few line items here. Was thinking:

(1) I'll do my own brake cylinder
(2) I'll have him set the carbs right (since I failed)
(3) I'll skip the re-jet, and do that myself IF I even need it. I just read online that people liked this kit after using pod-style air filter conversion (kit is: https://www.common-motor.com/product.asp?itemid=205&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIttK-86HT4gIViI2zCh3AZwa6EAQYASABEgKuFfD_BwE)


Thoughts on #3?

Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,360 Posts
IMO

1. Replacing the OEM brake cylinder would be cheaper and easier. The newer units will work better as well. So unless you are really set on keeping the bike all OEM original, I would opt for replacing instead of rebuilding.

3. Regarding re-jetting and running with pods. You might not even need to re-jet at all. Have a look at these

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/41-fuel-supply-carburation/125466-running-rich-pods-solution.html
https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/63-fuel-supply-carburation/23714-cb400-cv-carbs-pods-how-make-them-work.html
https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/49-fuel-supply-carburation/125002-carb-tune-rebuild-clean-pod-jetting.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
76twin- have you heard of any aftermarket master cylinders in particular? The one posted above doesn’t have any reviews. Not sure if maybe people are using one from 4into1 they love, for example.

Thanks everyone!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,360 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
654 Posts
I suppose that $80 an hour is what he needs to pay his overhead, plus make a decent wage. It would be interesting to see if anybody on here has access to any of Honda's old flat rate manuals.
I have the original flat rate Honda manual but sadly I won’t be back home this week to reference it. I’ll try and remember to post when I’m back there for anyone that is truly interested.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top