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Dust cover, part number 42604-413-780 has failed again. Why, seal was replaced about 500 miles ago with a new one, pricey and hard to find, is this seal/dust cover necessary??? Why did it fail??? The damage to the dust cover looks like the rubber stuck to the axle and the rotation of the wheel tore the rubber apart. Suggestions?? There was a thread about this item a year or so ago but I can not find it.
 

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There's the circlip, spacer and washer that can all wear out (also potentially the cush driver rubbers), which would cause the sprocket to be able to tilt towards the axle (or more clearly if you push on the top with one hand, pull on the bottom with the other hand you'd be able to tilt the top towards the wheel, bottom away and it would feel loose). Also did you see the part in the service manual where it tells you the order of assembly and how to clip the dust cover on?

If you have a picture there might be something else to see
 

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Was it fitted correctly, and some lubes can attack the rubber making them soggy........the large dust seal is to keep lube in and grit etc. out, as the cush system "rotates a few degrees" back and forth due to drive and over run relative the the wheel, whilst the wheel and it rotates.

If you leave the large dust seal off, then regularly and i mean regularly service the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I will replace the seal and check for worn parts in that area.
I will check the cush drive, not sure wha I am looking for but....
Are parts available for the cush drive???
 

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They are but if you don't want to spend all the money you can apparently use bicycle inner tube to shim them, there's videos on youtube that probably would explain it better (just search cush rubber shim with inner tube or something)
 

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I took a short piece of 1 1/2" bicycle tube and it slipped nicely over the larger rubber cushes. Trim to the length of the rubber cush.
 

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I will check the cush drive, not sure what I am looking for but....



You have the manual so know how the system works and goes together, right ?

You know of cmsnl for the exploded views etc....just make sure you are sitting down when viewing the prices.......i have got stuff from then and find then excellent, but are a bit pricey, sorry cmsnl but they are a bit pricey, but if you cannot get them anywhere else then they are not so pricey i guess.

Perform a dry dummy run with no rubbers or plastics or circlip off the bike.

Spacer/collar fits into the sprocket or you have a spacered type sprocket, the spacer is a press fit into the sprocket, the spacered sproket spacer is part of the sprocket.

The spacer/collar is a good fit onto the wheels iron or steel "protrusion", the bit with the circlip groove in it. This is part of the system that allows the sprocket unit to rotate on the wheel protrusion a few degrees via the cush part of the system. If the collar/sprocket unit is sloppy, ie not a good fit, then you will have problems but i must say i have not come across one that throws the large dust seal off, yet !

I have come across some of these that have been rusted solid, god knows who, how, what, never serviced them !

Make sure the collar/spacer is fitted the right way round.

The thin washer should be good, and fits "below" the circlip, effectively shimming the sprocket unit and providing a "lip" for the large dust seal to fit over, thus holding it on.

The circlip should be a good fit in its groove, the groove not being worn.

When assembled with no rubbers/plastics etc., the sprocket will be allowed to rotate then few degrees with virtually no slop side to side, end float and/or front back movement, in an ideal world that is......

back in a mo, door bell just rang.....

yippy, the parts are here, so an interesting afternoon to come, thanks cmsnl !

back to this then down the shop.....

So, the "alloy tapers" fit one way and are in good condition, or have "egg holes" !

The drive pins are good and tight in the sprocket, fitted the right way round ?

The cush rubbers are good and a tiny bit squishy, or rock solid ? You will see wear patches on the rubbers where the alloys have been in contact. These are the faces that can be "built up" with cycle inner tube. I have been doing this "repair" since 1980 !!

Some lubes can make rubber parts "soggy"

I like to add some o rings to the drive pins, keeps grit out and lube in the alloys.

As said, the washer/shim fits over the wheel protrusion and under the circlip, and forms a lip for the large dust seal to fit over. Fit the large seal as you would a cycle tyre, needing no levers......

Remember to tension the lubed chain with the required slack when you are SITTING on the bike. Make a measure gauge that hangs on the swing arm with a go no go marking area, saves time and stress in the long run.

When all good, you will feel the difference on drive and overrun, the cush system adding some " elasticbandyness" feel to the chain drive......

Hope this helps, off the the shop, have a good day all ;)
 

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The dust cover actually slips over the washer under the circlip when fully installed. I've missed checking it after work in the past and had it pop off.
 

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The dust cover actually slips over the washer under the circlip when fully installed. I've missed checking it after work in the past and had it pop off.
Hoping it’s alright to revive an old thread. I’m having a similar issue with the dust cover. Can anyone help me with the order of operations to get the dust cover to slip over the washer? I’ve tried a few times, but it keeps popping off. Even ordered a replacement form EBay, but it is definitely old rubber. Thank you.
 

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Here’s a pic of the washer that I believe the dust cover is supposed to cover.
304327

And this is what I think it’s supposed to look like when the job is done....
304328
 

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Spray it with a silicone lube should help, Clean surfaces also help so the rubber doesn't have anything to grab. Stretching it a bit as you insert will also help
 

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Spray it with a silicone lube should help, Clean surfaces also help so the rubber doesn't have anything to grab. Stretching it a bit as you insert will also help
Do I need to remove the sprocket first? Can’t seem to get enough clearance to slip the washer underneath the dust cover...lubed it up, tried pulling it out a little with some needle nose pliers, but can’t seem to make it work. Maybe a small metal pick would help get the washer away from the sprocket....
 

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The first picture shows a gap between the washer and circlip, washer should be flush with the clip leaving a gap for the rubber boot
 

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The first picture shows a gap between the washer and circlip, washer should be flush with the clip leaving a gap for the rubber boot
Is the washer supposed to be able to move a bit? I can push it up against the circlip, but it doesn’t stay in place - making it difficult to get the dust cover behind it.
 

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Yes, the washer will move a bit but it's held outboard by the spacer collar. You do have the sprocket spacer in place, correct?
 
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